Top 20 KitchenAid KHMS155LSS 1000 Watts Microwave Oven - Page 6 Questions & Answers

F2 means you have a shorting membrane keypad. If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and of course one should never leave a microwave unattended while cooking.

This is actually a simple do-it-yourself job. You simply move your circuit board into the new frame.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Next, disconnect the strip as shown in the photo below, then remove the screws that hold your circuit board in the old frame.



Then carefully (since the display is made of glass) move your circuit board to the new frame, and reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

The part number to order is W10306627 (formerly 8205018) and you can get it here for $107.05 plus shipping.

You can also find helpful exploded view diagrams at that link.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

mcdevito75 here, This may involve a special procudure, not to mention tools and maybe a special adjustment to keep Microwaves from leaking into your home. BEST BET, look for an appliance repair shop in your area.

This is usually caused by a defective touch pad and it not it is the control panel. Replacement costs for either is usually rather expensive.

Hi,
This means that the magnetron has stopped working. How long have you owned this unit? the magnetron may still be under warranty. If not your best bet may be replacement but once I have more information i can assist you further.
Thank you,
Lee

Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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hello,

what this means is that there have been a disconnection on the wire of the element (heater)

what you need to do to fix up the problem is to unscrew the oven then trace the wire down to the element power point and fix it back to it position

please make sure all form of power supply is OFF when carry out this function

Good lock and thanks for using fixya.

The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for about 5 minutes.

Otherwise, you probably have a failed membrane keypad.

Is it possible that some spray cleaner or steam accidentally got into the controls?

Direct spraying of cleaners on the keypad and steam from the cooktop can damage the controls.

I always recommend that you spray non-ammonia cleaner on a soft cloth (not a paper towel which can scratch) and gently wipe the keypad.

And I always recommend that you use the vent fan whenever you're cooking on the stove top to keep heat, steam, and grease out of the controls and door panels.

Also be sure your filters are cleaned, or in the case of charcoal types, replaced.

If it does not dry out over time, it may need to be manually dried or blown out.

The keypad may be damaged or worn out, or control unit may be damaged.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

But please note that for some models, the membrane keypad is not
available as a separate part, so you would have to order the control
panel frame assembly which comes with a new keypad.

In this case, you simply move your circuit board into the new frame. That is a simple do-it-yourself
job.



You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites. Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide

There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave. Its usually mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. I found this illustration at pcappliancerepair.com based on the model number you listed this question under:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The line fuse is listed as item 28 in the drawing. Keep in mind, there are also a couple of thermostats listed that may also cause no power problems if blown.

One is listed as item 29 (part number 8183703) under the same drawing. The other is listed under the "Airflow" section as item 5 (part number 8183697). The humdity sensor can also be a source of problems when it becomes old. If you managed to overheat the oven any time recently, you may want to check these thermostats and sensors to see if they are still good. They should read 0 ohms when measured out of the circuit.

If the line fuse is blown, you can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended. If you wish to order on line, use the part numbers to search by comparison as the model number you listed this question under may not be available at all the websites I have provided. The parts, however, ARE listed.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.

My same microwave did this about a week ago... repair people said the part that surrounds a fuse had burned through. 350 to fix it, I am considering just getting a new one since I have now found that mine has had a replacement part fix done after a recall on this microwave. If you have not read the recall info you can find it easily by doing a search for Kitchenaid Microwave recall. There will be a small green square sticker by the serial number if yours had had the recall repair done already. Mine had but I still have had this recent problem even after the recall repair.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

eie

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101
shgsgh

HI. Your symptoms are a strong indication Magnetron failure. This is the principal heating device, that is used to produce microwaves that , essentially, excite the water molecules in the food, thus, producing the heating effect. When this device fails, generally, the unit will run, but not heat. This device is very fragile, and can injure you if you are not qualified to handle this type of component. There is a High Voltage Capacitor, that is used to help provide the necessary current for optimal Magnetron operation. This capacitor must be discharged correctly. If not, you could risk serious injury, during the repair, if it is accidental touched.

The Magnetron is linked to a cut-off fuse. If the magnetron becomes unstable, this fuse will shut the device down. It is standard procedure to have this fuse test for continuity. If the fuse has blown, this will be the culprit. Replace the fuse. Now, if the fuse continues to show continuity, this will confirm that the Magnetron has failed. I would advise to inspect the Capacitor, and HV diode for visible burn marks, or swollen top(Cap).

Access can be ac hived to these parts by removing the outside cabinet screws. Once the screws are removed, the cover can be removed, as well. Once the cover is removed, the internal components will be exposed for testing, and visual inspections.

WARNING: IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED SERVICE TECH, THIS WILL NOT BE A NOVICE DO IT YOURSELF JOB. MICROWAVES ARE VERY DANGEROUS, AND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. I RECOMMEND TO CALL FOR SERVICE, IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WITH HANDLING THE CAPACITOR, OR MAGNETRON.

door is in need of adjustment

good day,
hope this link below will solve your problem.

kitchen appliances

Hello :

It could be a bad door switch or loose door switch mount . There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly .

Warning : A microwave oven is capable of giving you a serious electrical shock, even when it is unplugged. I strongly recommend you seek the assistance of an appliance repair technician when conducting any microwave oven repair .

good luck .

please rate !
　

You'll first want to unplug the oven, then remove and check the bulbs.

You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Frigidaire, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.
You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites. If you still have trouble, let us know directly.

faulty keypad

Remov fan cover, bottom plate, you can either do it right and pull out the entire plastic baffle to reveal the hindge bolts or you can just jam something between just enough to get a long socket on a small socket wrench. You must replace the entire door. Trying to replace just handle is almost impossible.

The door handle can easily be replaced on most microwave ovens by removing the inner door panel that goes around the perimeter of the glass. The following link explains how to access and/or replace the door handle:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3696942-microwave_oven_door_handle_replacement

The average cost for a replacement handle usually averages about $20 - $40. Replacements may be purchased at the websites listed in the link I provided. However, price and configuration of your oven also depends upon the MODEL NUMBER.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. If the model number you listed this quesiton under is correct, you can refer to pcappliancerepair.com for some excellent exploded view diagrams of your microwave that confirms how the door is assembled. The part numbers for a new handle (if you haven't purchased one yet) are: 8169737 - (White) 8169738 - (Black) 8169739 - (Biscuit) 8184264 - (Stainless) Make sure you use the correct part number when ordering to ensure you get the correct color to match your appliance. I hope this helps you.

bad magnetron. go to sears parts direct and they can give you the part . but just to let you know it might not be worth it to fix. let me know what happens