To replace the door handle you need to access the door screws. On MOST microwave ovens, you just have to remove the inner door panel that goes around the perimeter of the glass. This can be easily be accomplished by using a small screwdriver or putty knife and carefully insert along the seam of the inner panel and pry the plastic up. Work your way slowly around the perimiter of the glass to pop the panel loose. Use care not to pry against the glass. The glass is tempered and also has an RF shield that shields you from harmful RF radiation.
With the inner panel removed, the door handle screws are visibile and can easily be accessed with a screwdriver. Simply remove the broken handle and install the new one. Re-insert the inner door panel, gradually working your way around the perimeter of the door glass to ensure it snaps back into place and seats properly.
This repair can be done with the door in place, or you can remove it for easier access. If you decide the remove the door, open it all the way and lift straight up at the hinges. The door will lift off of the hinge pins. On some microwaves, you may have to remove the upper grill cover over the door (if equipped) to accommodate door removal. Place on a hard flat surface with some towels under it for padding. This protects the door facing from scatches.
NOTE: Some doors have a hinge pin that needs to be removed, or screws holding the door in place at the hinge.
You can view an exploded view diagram of your microwave at pcappliancerepair.com for reference. Just type in your model number and locate the parts listing for the door. If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
I doubt that just tightening those screws would have caused this problem, but if so, I would loosen them a quarter turn first.
Instead, my bet is there is now an issue with the door switches or mounts.
To replace the door handle properly, normally
you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo)
and then you'll see the screws you need to remove.
Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) here that demonstrates how it's done.
You can find
links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.
I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.
possibly a fuse, diode, capacitor, hi voltage transformer or magnetron....
some of those had a five year parts warrantty on the magnetron which is the most common to fail besides a fuse but it is also the most expensive.. i hate to telll you this but most micros are disposable items these days because some of the labor and service money gets pretty close to the cost of a new one.... the only way to check those components is to drop it if its an over the range hangin model.... should be two or three bolts up above the hold it in place once those are removed it will lift up and out ,,, remove venting as well,, get two people some of those are heavy,, also be carefull if u try and open it up for serviceing u are going to have to ground the capacitor there is a high risk of shock those are live even when unplugged, and also most of the screws will require a security torx bit to rremove those hope this helps
Micorwave doesn't work when the megatron tube is out. That's probably why it won't heat up. Either replace microwave or the tube. You can get the number from Sears for the megatron tube by calling customer support.
I am assuming that all the heat funtions defrost included do not work. This can be a few things first you need to open the cover(make sure the unit is unplugged) then on the controll panell side you will find a pc board locate the fuse on the board and test ,reolace if blown ,if this does not solve your problem then look on the base plate there you will see a big block called a transformer one of the wires on this will have (normally)a white tube like piece of plastic open and locate the fuse test and replace in need be,if this still does not solve then you need to check the capacitor a silver unit that the wire with the white fuse box attaches to NOW BE CAREFULL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this caries a large electrical load before you remove take a insulated screw driver and short the two points it should give a spark if it does then leave it alone if not replace,last is the maganatron that has blown assuming all the above is working////////// Advise do your reserch it is often cheaper to replace the unit than repairing it.Please ensure that you use insulated tools DO NOT!!! use your bear hands to remove wires or fuses a microwave can give a nasty shock and heart you SAFTY FIRST PLEASE
There is plastic part which goes all the way around the door, about 1/2 inch wide, very close to the inside window, which is held on by plastic tabs. I use a plastic putty knife to pry under it to get it to start comming off. Usually, the long side (top or bottome) is easiest to start with.
I'm guessing you might mean model KCMS185JSS0, KCMS185JSS1, KCMS185JSS2, KCMS185JSS3, or KCMS185JSS5?
To allow us to help you effectively (at no charge), please post a NEW problem to FixYa, and please
include your brand name and the full model number from the tag in or on
the unit, your symptoms ("won't heat"), as well as the answers to these questions:
- When you try to microwave are the inside light, internal cooling fan and turntable all working?
- Is there any unusual noise or is it louder or quieter than normal?
We have a sound clip here of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working. (A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a
shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an
empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can
be bad without that sound.) - If yours is making an odd noise, which does it sound like?
BUT If you or someone you know wants to go ahead check out the diode and magnetron, see these links:
How old is your microwave? Would not be surprised if it is just the old magnetron; in which case it is easier to buy a new one...
I am not an expert, but I have owned an ooooooold microwave.
hi,
The F2 code is a keyboard failure. Since it's intermittent I would check for a loose wire/connection. open the control panel and reset the ribbon cable on the circuit board....
This is usually a bad door microswitch, also called an interlock switch. It can also be wiring or the control board, although both of these are rare. Microwave ovens can be very dangerous to work on, so be sure you know what you are doing. Unplug the unit! Do not work on this mwo with it plugged in. Very high voltage! You have to remove the screws holding the control panel onto the case, lift the control board up and to the side or bottom if it mounts that way. To the left of the cavity are three small door switches. You can usually see these switches being activated as the door opens and closes. You will have to make sure and discharge the capacitor by grounding one of its terminals with a long screwdriver. If you don't do this you can be shocked even with the mwo unplugged. You will need to test each of your door switches for continuity with the door open and closed. Replace the bad switch, reinstall everything, and test. Again this is very technical, and if you are not comfortable doing it then call an appliance technician. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
F2 on a KitchenAid mike usually means a Keypad short. Beware if it is a KHMS155LSS, it can self start on its own with a KeyPad short. A real stunning defect.
the gril at the top (above the door) usually comes off with a couple of screws or just pulls off .. on some you have to take the cabinet apart ..... inside you might find a flat filter put in at a slant .. its often a grease and smell filter that contains activated charcoal .. when it gets clogged then it can rattle around as air tries to get around it .. you can replace it or just leave it out ..
