20 Most Recent 1985 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You are probably right ,the carbs need a good clean and also while your doing that try a new air filter unit .If you have never done a carb strip down ,then now is your chance .It would help if you had a manual ,if not ask a friend who understands the bikes workings .its very easdy as long as you know what to do .

Check each plug wire for a number one through four. This is ususlly a small band with the number printed on it. As seated on the bike, the cylinder farthest left is number one and proceeds to the right with the cylinder on the far right being number four. Arrange the wires accordingly.

I'm guessing that the fuel block you refer to is the inner side of the petcock assembly. If this is so, the larger line is the fuel supply and connects to a swivel pipe in between two of the carburetors and feeds all four through internal piping. The second smaller hose is a vacuum line to operate the petcock and runs from one of the rubber carb mounts to the petcock. My 85' model also has four vent hoses running from the top front part of each carb back and down between each one. I hop this helps.

Usually what I will do is first.Have you had any recent work done on your bike? Anything that, while puting it back together may have pinched a wire? If so youll have to visually inspect all the wire that is involved.Look by the tires, and uder the fenders for spots where the wiring may be rubbing. You may have to look at a wiring diagrahm of the bike, and see all associated wiring with the horn. Specifically if you unplug the horn and it doesnt blow the fuse, but, as soon as you hook up the horn the fuse blows. This may be unlikely as most horns are not energized untill the button is pressed, which the fuse would then blow. If its blowing on its own, this means you have a wire rubbing somewhere, or the horn itself is faulty.Check the wiring diagrahm, check the wires, check the components.Hope this helps a little bit.

It's either the starter Coil gone Bad, or there's a Starter Button, along with the Key.

carbs dirty with varnish--may need to overhaul--but 1st clean float area to eliminate any possible clog--get a repair book for carb maintenance and service

You can get away with about 5 inches if you put lowering shocks on the rear. You may still need to weld an extension to your side stand, the center stand will be virtually useless, and very difficult to use once you lower the rear. I did my 1980 KZ650 in this fashion, the major difference is that you have a shaft drive.

it sounds like this could be a timing problem

Hello, this engine was designed to run very clean & efficient. If the compression is good, all you should need is a good tune up. Carbs adjusted & synchronized.
I hope this helps.

First you want to disconnect the positive cable to the starter, than unscrew the 2 bolts holding the starter to the motor, pull them up as far as you can and you will be able to pull the starter out.

Most likely it is your shifter and linkage, they are on the left side and would have been damaged in a slide or collision on the side. something in this linkage got bent either internally or extenally.

Sounds like you battery isn't holding charge overnight. If it was the alternator, it wouldn't start during the day so the alternator sounds fine.

Make sure the battery that is on it is the right one for the bike.

Try taking the battery off the bike and using a battery charger to charge it overnight. If that doesn't work, I'm afraid it's going to need a new battery.

Good Luck

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cheers.

The dealer should be able to order the correct drain plug for you. Do not lose the rubber washer. Also be careful not to over tighten the new plug when installing. If you take the threaded piece of the plug to a hardware store you may be able match up a short brass plug that will fit (most hardware stores do not have a big supply of metric hardware).

http://www.maxim-x.com/specifications.html

Have you tied ebay, craigs list? May be able to google it. Good luck..

Where is your question?

If you want to know if your motor is locked up. Hand shift the bike into third or fourth gear and see if you can turn it over by spinning the rear wheel by hand or rocking the bike forward and backward. If the starter motor is spinning but the motor is not , and the motor is not frozen, then you have a bad one way clutch and starter gear in side the motor. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1985-yamaha-xj700xnc-maxim-x/o/m10113#sch514113

The easiest way to check this condition is to put your bike into a high gear (4th, 5th, or 6th, if you have it) and roll the bike forward. You don't need or want to have the ignition key turned on for this. If the motor is frozen, the rear wheel will lock up. If the motor is free, the rear wheel will slowly turn the engine over. The higher the gear, the easier a time you'll have of pushing the bike forward. Also, if you remove the spark plugs before you try this, the engine won't be creating any compression, and that will make it much easier for it to turn over, too.

If you haven't run the bike in a while, squirting a little bit of oil down each spark plug hole after you pull the plugs will also lubricate the sidewalls while the rear wheel moves the pistons up and down. That's a nice gentle way to get things moving again while minimizing cylinder wall scuffing.

There is one main fuse by the batterry under the seat and the rest are actually under you indicator lights cover.Hope this helps.