20 Most Recent 1985 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The colour of the wires headed to the Maxim-X headlight are green and yellow. There is an updated electrical diagram for the X on the Maximum Maxim-X web site ( www.maxim-x.com ) at the following link: http://www.maxim-x.com/pix/electrical/maxim-x_electrical_diagram+plus.pdf

If you're looking for the service manual for an XJ700X, you should know that the factory manual a) has errors and b) doesn't distinguish between the 85 XJ700X and the 86 XJ700X... and there ARE differences. In any case, you're much better off visiting www.xjcd.org to order what's known as "The XJCD set". That set of CDs contains a lot of updates, clarifications and corrections that were unknown at the time of printing 28+ years ago. If you want to read more about the XJCD set, visit this link on the Maximum Maxim-X web site: http://www.maxim-x.com/notes.html#xjcd

Large line is fuel, from tank to petcock. Large line from petcock to Carb. small line is vacumn from intake manifold to petcock (small spigot). suck on this line & make sure Gas comes through Large line to Carb.

would be best to so you can check the plates etc ! may be a internal bolt behind it but dont recall one ! makes it easier to manhandle too !

cold ! tensioner should be able to retract back by turning a screw of some sort and you hold it in this position as you fit it and bolt on then release and it will reset and only turn engine in direction of rotation as if engine was to run and see if all parts turn ok and comes back to tdc after several rotations and all marks line up !

Please visit Yamaha.com

right side of your bars is a lever ! known as front brake , next to it should have a square container with 2 or more screws on top , remove them and carefully remove , pour fluid in here , on the calipers undo one side bleed nipple and pull lever and hold tight , tighten nipple , repeat several times including top up fluid ! same for other calipers ! ho ho ho .. P...

Regulator/ rectifier have u tested the AC voltage at the stator wires ?

The air is on top of the oil. You still have to change to fork oil (and dust) seals. Not hard, messy. Use your digital camera as a guide to help you re-assemble the unit. Do one at a time. Support the motorcycle securlely.

www.denniskirk.com

Put your bike on the high stand and thn check the oil level at the right handside cover just above the brake pedal. It should be fully covered with oil.
The standard capacity of oil for is around 2.5litres without the oil cooler and if with oil cooler (the one tht frm XJ650) the oil capacity is thn 3.8 litres.
For more info plz visit www.xjbikes.com

If This Engine Has Rubber Boots Between Carb And Intake Port(Head) The Clamps May Be Loose Or The Rubber Boot May Be Cracked Or Permeated( Leaking Air, Lean Condition). Never Use Starting Fluid To Test It Will Wash Oil From The Cylinder Wall. Use WD-40 It Contains A lubricant.

If you want a service manual for the Maxim-X, I recommend that you buy the XJCD set from XJCD.org. The PDF service manual on the XJCD contains many corrections and clarifications that the factory manual never had. Plus you get the Owners Manual too, as well as a bunch of other things that you can read more about here: http://www.maxim-x.com/notes.html#xjcdThe Maxim-X service manual on the XJCD has the benefit of 27 years of hindsight and observation.... and it costs a whole lot less than the factory manual.

There are several reasons why a Maxim-X fan might not run. One reason might be that the fan fuse has blown. The fan has a 10A fuse all its own which is located under the cover for the indicator lights by the ignition keyhole (there are four #2 Philips screws that need to be removed before the cover can be removed to access fuses and indicator bulbs).If the fuse is OK, then the next possibility is that the 'Thermo Switch" which trips the fan isn't making a connection. The Thermo Switch is threaded into the thermostat housing and has a push-on wire connection. Actually, the temperature sensor is also threaded into the thermostat housing but it is the smaller of the two sensors/switches. The larger of the two, which I believe is accessible from the left side of the thermostat housing, is the switch that trips the fan. Often the push-on connection gets oxidized and needs cleaning. Often the wire connection becomes loose and can simply be tightened and pressed securely back into place to restore the connection.Another reason the fan might not spin is that the power connector has a bad connection. From toward the right side of the fan you'll see a short length of wire (maybe a foot) with two conductors leading to what I seem to recall is a red plug. Like all the other plugs, that can oxidize and create a bad connection. The plug can also come loose if someone before you has broken the locking tab or maybe didn't plug the two halves properly together again. You'll find the plug end up around the right side of the thermostat housing.... between the thermostat housing and the right frame rail. That's also where one white and one yellow plug are tucked away (the yellow is the power plug for the left coil and the white is the power plug for the right coil). It's a pretty tight cluster of wires and plugs but finding the red one for the radiator fan power is fairly easy because tracing the wire back to the fan is fairly easy.So, if the fuse is OK and the thermo switch is working, and the connection from the thermo switch is a good one, and the power connection for the fan is solid.... then the fan might be burnt out. If so, they come up on eBay often enough so it shouldn't be too difficult to find a replacement.But, from my experience, my money is on the fuse first, the bad thermo switch connection second and possibly a failed thermo switch third. That's what I've seen most often. Whatever it is, it's a reasonably easy fix.

Be more explicit.

I STAND TO BE CORRECTED. BUT I THINK THERE WILL BE A HEAT CENSOR THAT IS ACTIVATED AT THE REQUIRED TEMPERATURE IF THIS IS FAULTY THIS COULD BE THE REASON TO THE FAN NOT ENGAGING.I HOPE THIS HELPS

Maybe you have not adjusted it properly. There are usually adjusting nuts on both ends to allow shortening and lengthening. Sounds like you have it adjusted too short.

Check your coolant and your thermostat. If they are working, then try putting a live to the input of your fan to see if it is serviceable.

Hypoid gear oil. 85/90wt.