Top 20 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Questions & Answers

Question edited for a lot more clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks to model category. 'Cranks' means it turns over. I think you mean it cranks but doesn't start? Help here https://www.google.com/search?q=Ultra+Classic+Electra+Glide.+Bike+shuts+off+and+wants+to+crank+back+over+but+won%27t

Hi, Jason for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk02-6rZVJZCw22Lqc6JwMFrZLhydiQ:1614657417101&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=Inside+the+gas+tank+fuel+line+routing+2001+Harley+Davidson+FLHTCUI+Electra+Glide+Ultra+Classic&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjWw57O25DvAhUuw1kKHY1XBHcQjJkEegQIAhAB&biw=1440&bih=757 http://www.mediafire.com/file/trwd3nr1nlgb2ky/2001+Harley+Touring+Service+Manual.pdf https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/owners/motorcycle-maintenance.html https://www.6ya.com/

Start by pulling all fuses and reseating them.

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Duplicate question already answered

in your ecm there is a function that works with temp and fuel mixture. It sounds like possible not working or needs to be setup. Are you getting any codes??

sounds like your voltage regulator has gone bad, voltage spikes like that can damage a lot of the electronics on the bike. Would not operate it until you fix the issue.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-603

usually it is either the regulator or stator that dies firstly check stator...(alternator)...set multi mtr at 500ac volts connect probes (red/blk) to both wires from stator..output voltage should read between 100 acv mid revs to 150 acv mid revs output to battery should be 13.5v -14.75v dc...if not then regulator is RS ...I used to fit Honda regulators 30amp type with 2 red and 2 green wires ..because it is a 3 phase regulator just disconnect one yellow wire harley regulators are of poor quality...they have no on off switch like the japanese ones ..in other words when you turn off your ignition the harley regulator is still on hope this helps MCS

If it worked before you did any work but not now that suggests a pinched or accidentally disconnected wire. First, check all the fuses. A blown fuse could result from just a temporary grounding of a hot connection. Hopefully its just a fuse. If not, you will have to redo the last project and look for disconnected wires. Go over them carefully. One time I accidentally pulled on wiring and the wire looked good but it had been pulled out of the terminal and not longer made a connection. Wish you luck with that.

In order to answer this question a person needs to know what the problem or symptoms are: DO you think the injectors are leaking or letting too much fuel into the intake or plugged or not opening and thereby starving the engine of fuel. You can test whether or not an injector is receiving an electrical current (signal to fire) by using a special test light (NOID LIGHT) that plugs into the injector connector and lights up when a current is passed to it. If the engine is getting fuel and running but not running properly and you do not have a way to check whether or not the engine is running rich or lean it will be important to know if any of the engine components (cams etc) have been changed such that larger etc. injectors are needed OR have larger or smaller than required injectors been installed etc. AND has the computer been programmed for any physical engine changes. All of this is important because VE (volumetric efficiency) (how much air the engine ingests in given conditions) controls all engine operation and efficiency. A mass airflow EFI engine only knows what amount of air is entering the engine at any given time if it is told that, it cannot measure that. Therefore engineers have to compute what amount of air an engine will ingest with air density, engine combustion chamber size, when and how long the valves are open etc etc and then program that into a computer, and depending on that information, a desired injector orifice size, fuel pressure and pulse width need to be determined and mapped into the computer as well. Fuel injection is VERY dependent on fuel pressure and the pulse width (the time the injector is open) will be determined by that as the amount of fuel that is discharged will vary by how much pressure is pushing fuel out the injector, how large the injector hole is and how long the injector hole is open i.e. because more fuel will be discharged in a given amount of time from a larger hole under greater pressure and less fuel will be discharged in the same amount of time if either the fuel pressure is lower or the hole is smaller. Thus with a fixed fuel pressure and a fixed injector orifice size, if the amount of air being ingested into the engine requires more or less fuel to provide the optimum air/fuel ratio, the only way to do it is for the computer to keep the injector open a longer or a shorter period of time. SO, you need to accurately determine the fuel pressure your system requires and is producing. If an injector is leaking you can tell that by a look into the induction module. If it is leaking it is not closing when it should not be open. If the injector is getting a signal to open and not doing that there would be no fuel to burn so spraying some into the induction module would indicate this is the problem if the engine would then start. There are really no available injector fuel flow testers which leaves the best or only way to test that the injector is opening properly and releasing the required amount of fuel with a correct fuel pressure and pulse width is likely to replace the injector which would both answer the question and solve this problem if the problem is a partially plugged or somewhat sticking injector.

If it is carburetted the screen is in the shutoff valve. If it is EFI the filter will be in the fuel tank with the fuel pump.

First thing would be to get rid of old fuel and replace with new. Then look for codes to see if injectors are okay or not.

Under the exhaust side of the bike frame near the rear, it is a hex head bolt with a Allen key hole in the middle of it

Lift the bike. Check both wheel rims and tires for roundness and trueness. Check for wheel bearing looseness. Check sidewalls for bulges and bead seating. Check steering head bearing tightness.

Under the frame near the rear on the exhaust side, it will have an Allen key hole in the middle of the drain plug, you can use a socket on the nut or an Allen key to remove it

Sounds as tho your speedo drive unit has went bad

yzf sounds like Suzuki not HD????

Idle is likley set too low.

Check for a coil breaking down when hot BUT also install new plugs first.

Could be a coil breaking down.

Either the square part of the cable that screws into speedometeris rounding or you have a break in your cable ,take off and check,will be one or the other not to many things can go wrong with these..