The rubber cover on the left side axel is tore. I need to replace the joint I think. How do I do this?

Sounds like a bad wheel bearing.

Take wheel off then there should be a cover in the center Allen head bolts remove it I think there's a clip to remove and some other spacers then in bolt the lower ball joint pop it loose should be able to push and pull the cv axel out

if your cv joint is going bad check the rubber boot located on your front axel if there is a tear in the boot once dirt gets inside the boot depending on how long youve had the noise the cv joint will have to be replaced sometimes the first signs are a clicking noise when turning coming from the cv joint if you catch it early you may get away with just replacing the boot there are two ways of doing this depending on the vehical one is to buy split boot it wraps around the axel and is held together with tiny bolts and nuts the axel doesant have to be removed useing this type you still have to remove the damaged boot and clean the cv joint thoroughly i suggest useing brake parts cleaner be carefull not to get it on any rubber parts or lines then before installing the new boot pack the joint with grease and the boot the other way the old joint must be removed you will have to remove the complete axel assemble the new joint and axel will come as one unit depending on the vehical your balljoint or joints may have to be removed also this method to me is the prefferd way this will assure all is new its more involved but better in the long run

if the cv joint boot cover is bad then you might have got dirt or road dust in there.
I would replace the half shaft or left axle would only cost a little more for new axle.
and be safer.
also check the right side it might be do also.
can do one at a time because of money.

Remove the wheel cover and loosen the drive axel hub nut. loosen the the wheel lug nuts raise the vehicle and support it well. NOTE: you will have to be working under the car be very careful. remove the drive axel hub nut. To prevent the hub from turning, insert a screwdriver thru the brake caliper and into one of the cooling slots on the rotor. remove the control arm-to-steering knuckle. Check for the ABS sensor and remove it out of your way. Separate the drive axel from the hub. If stuck remove the brake caliper and rotor. Push the axel out of the hub with a puller or you can use a good solid broom handle and drive it out. If you are removing the right side axel you will need a slide hammer and adaptor to separate the axel from the trans. If you are removing the left side, carefully pry the axel out of the trans. with a large pry-bar positioned between the inner CV joint and the trans. case. Use the subframe as a pivot point. Hold the CV joints so they do not separate inside the rubber if going to reuse them. Lubricate the new seal with multi-purpose grease before you install it.

it sounds like a c/v joint is worn .check under the left where the axel connects theres a rubber boot in the boot is the c/v joint if there is a little wear on the joint it will click click clik when u are driving and turning expecaly at low speeds.and if the boot is riped there will be greese all around the area

ck the CV boot. if its broken you need a new cv axle, if its ok, jack up the car so both wheels are off the ground. either put the car in drive or just manually spin each front wheel while gripping the coil spring for the front strut. if you feel any (roughness) at all, that wheel bearing is bad. it should be smooth. if you have a bad one you will know it by this method. Even good mechanics sometimes replace the wrong bearing, but this 100% works every time.

Remove the wheel and the lower ball joint from the spindle. It will also make it easier if you remove the tie rod end. There is a large hut at the tire end of the axel. Remove that nut and washer. Take a rubber or brass Hammer and hit the end of the axel to push it through the bearing assembly. If it is really stuck, put the nut back on so that the nut is even with the end of the axel and uses a heavier hamer to break it loose. Once you break it loose, pull back on the rotor while pushing the axel to remove it from the hole it passes through. (Becarefull with the brake hose. If it is pulling too tight it might be best to remove the caliper and use a hanger to suspend it until you are done.) You will need a really BIG screw driver or a pry bar. Put the pry bar between the case and the hub of the axel and push in quickly and firmly to pop it out of the trans axel. It might take a few tries. If it resists look for a ridge and put a big screw drive on the ridge and use a hammer to pop it out.

Once it is out, reverse directions. Do not use the hammer on the new axel any where.put the end into the trans axel as far as it will go and then put the other end through the wheel bearing. Use the leverage you have with the rotor and bearing side to push the axel into the trans. You should hear it snap into place. Before you put the ball joint back on go to the trans axel side and use that pry bar and gently try to remove. if it resists it is seated, if it slides out, you need to seat it again. ONce you are sure it is firmly seated back into the trans, you can bump the ball joint and tie rod back together.

Good luck and be careful
Rich

is clock noise, check for gres elaking on the lf side if is leaking replace the lf side drive axel

Do you know if this car has ever been recked? if your going thru that many axels makes me think something is not running true, a wheel bearing would not make a cv joint in a axel go bad. Did you replace the axels? or did you have them done at a shop, and did you see the old axels after they were replaced. You got bigger problems than a wheel bearing. From what i can gather some thing is bent or your getting bunch of bad axels witch i dought.