Yes also could be the airflow meter and check what benimur said but sounds like if u checked all that its the airflow meter
Sounds like its jumped a few teeth on the timing belt when you crank it over ,does it seem to crank over real quick or even a little uneven sounding ? does it sound as if its almost going to go but just doesnt ? id say if these symptoms are answered yes to then for shure timing belt jumped ok good luck
Hi,
The backfire is significant, it validates the presence of fuel and spark. It also is indicative that for some reason, the spark is not firing in the correct time frame. Having said this, you may want to check:
1. distributor positioning in relation to cylinder # 1;
2. firing order;
3. timing sensor(s).
Pls post back year/model and number of cylinders.
Alternately, you can try removing one of the high tension wires and connect a spare known good sparkplug. Let the it touch/ground itself to any metal portion of the engine. Start the car while closely watching the exposed spare sparkplug. There should be spark when cranking. If yes there is spark, then chances are it is a delayed timing issue (assuming as you posted fuel is good all the way to the injectors), if not or will fire when ignition key is off, it is possible that the IGB B+12 is missing during the cranking.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Hi
The backfire when the key is released reminds me of older ignition systems where the selonoid for the starter bypassed the ignition coil ballast resistor, to boost the spark to counter battery voltage dropping during cranking. Sounds like you may have a problem like this. try running power direct from the battery to the +ve side of the coil and see if it then starts. If it does, then you will need to faultfind the ignition power circuit, and or(a I have in the past) fit a 6 amp diode from the keyswitch voltage to the start selonoid to the +ve side of the coil. BE SURE TO CONNECT THE BAND OF THE DIODE TO THE SELONOID SIDE. This will supply extra power to the coil on cranking. Check also connections to the starter first, this wire may have come adrift.
regards
Robotek
Did you have a diagnostic done ?
I'm assuming here there is a problem with the mass air flow meter (air flow sensor) or the the air filter..
Remove the air filter and try to start it.
press the acellerator dtraight down and then try starting it as well. If this fails chances are the diagnostic will reveal a faulty air flow meter..
Hope thats your problem cause if it aint you will need an engine job..
These kinds of starting problems can be a real pain to track down and repair. You have to rule out what the missing ingredient is as to why the engine will not start. Is it not getting enough fuel, or is it not getting spark to the spark plugs. Is there compression…are the pistons moving up and down inside the engine, or did the timing belt break?
Unfortunately both of these items are not very easy to check yourself….things are just too complicated these days to do much at home.
I would suggest you do a few things, just to rule out the very basic stuff .
1. Open the hood and look for anything that might have broken off or is hanging loose….follow the spark plug wires from the spark plugs back to the top of the engine…are they still attached to something at both ends?
2. Does the engine sound funny when you try to start it? If the timing belt broke, the engine will spin over MUCH faster than normal and will sound like there is no resistance to it …which there is not anymore if the belt broke.
The timing belt is located inside the engine so you can not see it. You can remove the oil filler cap on the top of the engine and have someone crank the engine over…you should see things moving up and down inside the oil filler cap area. If you do, the belt is OK, if you don’t , the timing belt might have broken.
3. Have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tank with their fist or a rubber hammer AS you crank the engine over…this can help jump start a weak electric fuel pump which is located inside the fuel tank.
4. Check for spark at the spark plugs. Remove a spark plug and hold it close to the metal engine with the spark plug wire attached AS someone cranks over the engine.
CAUTION use a set of rubber coated pliers or something with wood or plastic to hold the spark plug….it WILL shock you I really don’t recommend you do this……but if you want to, this will help you determine if you have spark or not.
Hope that helps.........
OK, do you have fire at the spark plugs? The coil should have between 10,500 to 13,500 ohms. That is from the positive terminal to the primary terminal.
I assume that the engine is fuel injected turn the ingnition on have someone stand beside the truck to see if they can hear the fuel pump in the tank start pumping. Then go to the fuel rail bleeder valve and with the ingnition in the on position, press in on the bleeder valve and see if you get fuel or air comming from there.
Good luck.......
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This could be any number of problems. Have you checked the starter? The fuel pump? The fuel filter and rest of fuel system?
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after you try to start the engine when the key is released it always backfires
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