Can not remove the rear tire.

Too much toe in adjustment. The tires are pointed toward the center, I use an expandable retractable tent pole, with normal weight on the tires I check as high as possible without obstruction against the rim evenly front and back same distance from the ground and try to get as close to zero as possible. When there is the same amount of resistance without the length of the pole being changed when held against the rim on one side and brushed across the rim on the other end of the pole first checking the front of the front rim from side to side then the back of the front rim side to side you should see a great improvement in tire life if you have to lean one way or the other slight toe in is better than toe out. I try for zero running radial tires. Keep the pole level and straight as possible.
This should be done with the tires pointed as close to straight line forward as possible while the entire weight of the vehicle rests on the tires. I like to sight down the sidewall of the tire from the front of the vehicle looking toward the rear axle to determine if the tires are pointing straight. I measure adjustment against the rim to avoid differences in tire lettering. There are more ways to do this measuring but this is the only way to do it one manned that I know of without an alignment rack. The rim should be very true running when spinning on the spindle but even a bent rim can cause this method to be inaccurate. If a bent rim is all you have then you must just pick one spot on the rims and then rotate it to the front measure then to the rear then measure.

Lock rings on output shafts on rear differential. They look like c clips need to open differential cover an flip c clip over to get even face on clips or bearings going bad

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_c7b5aba9012a13b2

in past experience I've seen the center of the wheel actually rust or just from normal road grime stick to the hub I had to kick the outer edge of the rim if that don't get it loose dictating on the kind of rim you have can use a pies of wood so you don't damage the rim but put the wood against outer edge of rim and hit it with a hammer will have to go back n forth from left to right side of wheel but it will come loose

please keep in mind this only works if all lug nuts are indeed off the center nut you was talking about does not hold the rim in place it hold the axel tight in the hub, which I am assuming you have a front wheel drive vehicle due to your question

No just hit the rim on the back side, its just stuck to the spindle.

This could be a few things, first try switching a rear tire to the front and see if that helps, you may have bent the rim but you would need to look at it and see is the rim is bent then look at the tie rod end to see if its bent, you could have bent the strut or lower control arm too. i would take a look at the tie rod end and see if its bent, here the thing, you say it wobbles and pulls, a tie rod end or strut or control arm will make the car pull but not wobble, a wobble would be caused by a bent rim or tire witth a bubble and this can make the car pull, tire putting the spare tire on and see if it still pulls and wobbles, if it doesnt then you know its the rim or tire, hope this helps.

Hello.

You have posed a great question, one I am sure future viewers here will want to see answered.

The spare tire, under the vehicle, is lowered via a cable. There is a silver bolt in the rear compartment, under the carpeting. Pull the carpeting back, and you will see the bolt. Using the lug wrench from the tool kit, rotate the bolt counter-clockwise. This will rotate the cable mechanism above the spare tire, and lower it. Once the tire is low enough, the center clamp can be loosened from the center of the rim, and the tire removed from the cable device.

To raise the wheel back up, place the clamp device back into the center of the rim, and rotate the bolt clockwise, until the tire is fully raised.

Thanks for the Question.

same wheels, if so then rim is not properly mounted remove one at a time, you may have to clean were rim mounts on to hub,the rim should slide on easy, you should not have to tighten lug nut to get the wheel to sit all the way back if thats the case then cleaning of center of rim and hub is needed, good luck.

is this front wheel? rear wheel? or 4 wheel drive? if you have front wheel drive or 4 wheel drive you will need to take the tire off and get the center cap off with cotter pin on most vehicles. then put the tire back on without its center cap. then put the vehicle back on the ground. then use required socket with an extention and breaker bar to put through the rim to loosen center hub bolt about a quarter turn. just enough to break it loose. then take the tire back off to finish the job. remove the brake caliper and rotor then center nut on hub bearing. there should be 3 bolts from the inside holding hub bearing on. on rear wheel only you won't need to take the tire off and on.

make sure the car is fully off the ground, and on a sturdy floor jack. spray some WD40 on it and let it sit on the rust and try again to take it off later.

Spray some penatrating oil around the center of the wheel, and let it sit for a few min.With the tire off the ground, rap on the back side of the tire, on the edge of the rim, but be careful not to rap it to hard, as you might dent the rim.It won't hurt to grind a little bit, just enough to remove the rust. I do it all the time.Hope I could help out.