60k Ready Heater will not start at all. Before this is would run and then stop shortly after.

but skipped spark plugs. (air and fuel filter ) finish the 60k mile tuneup?????
and are the tips, white, black, oil soaked, green , gas soaked?
shoe drops. but runs perfect other wise

if the 16v engine, says that on top, of valve cover
it has wells spark wells are they full of oil, that is the 60k tuneup
step that calls out valve lash checks and new gasket there.'
if they fill with water or oil , that will make starting hard.
there are 50 more ways, we dont guess, the tests and tools are easy and cheap.
got tools?

hard starts, ? basics.

• low battery (for 3 reasons) = low spark energy.
• low compression, skipping the 60k means the cam belt slipped.
• bad spark , not doing a full 60k tuneup.
• bad fueling. (too little or too much) "complex set of tests but scan it first"
• EGR sticking open. clean it.
• melted cat. (not your's, as it runs perfect otherwise)
• lots more, i stop.

here is the 60k line up
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/scheduleBw.jpg

27 hits
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html

old post
ever heard of a tune up,
ever get one this decade. or at the least 60k miles??????

tune up time.. do the 60k mile tune up.
spark, wires, cap ,rotor, filters.
bam, it stops flooding.

fuel pump maybe

95 16v ?
what DTC, post DTC? why skip that,... there are many 02 DTC.
most fail for heater, dead,
lets play a game. say;
1: CEL out running, is it , now?
2: you did the 60k by the book, did you? if not why not?
3: checked spark timing, its good, not way off, is it?
the 60k requires a new Timing belt, ever check that, or the timing of the cam? or compression, if not why not.?
no motor can run right with all or any of those stated items bad.
is the fuel filter packed up. 60k.
lets now pretend the 60k was done and done right.
click 60k here
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-ups.html

"what can make my 95 very rich?,"
Ill pretend it's a MPI 16v engine, not TBI. big differences that.
The 16v has 4 injectors, quad trouble !
rich? you never said under what conditions, hot or cold?
ill pretend, its all the time. rich. not just cold or hot.
1: engine never reaches 180F and holds there (miniumum)
does it? if not it will run rich forever. the ECU thinks its cold all the time and guess what it is.
2: Exhaust cracks, near the 02 sensors, making said sensor useless (new or old)
3: fuel pressure not near 30psi ($20 gage) found at 60. opps. bad.
4: leaking injectors.
5: clogged injectors, (seems odd but is true) ask.(complex)
there is an order to finding this.
ask for detailed help here, totally free.
http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/

You should take the car into a dealership for inspection. A guess is that the heater core started leaking coolant and that has shorted out the blower motor.

had a similar problem with same car. turned out there was a bad o-ring on the heater core, which happens to be right above the TCU. It was dripping on it and causing it to short out. replaced the o-ring and has been fine ever since.(about 60k mi ago)

Most of the dealers recommend Scheduled Maintenance Services at 30K, 60K, and 90K.
At 60K the coolant has to be replaced with a new one, to avoid a corroded radiator or partially clodged heater core. Radiator Flush. The air filter.The spark plugs has to be replaced with the original OEM. The transmission oil starts breaking at 30000 miles and has to be changed at 60K. This is the best insurance for the transmission of your car. It is optional but, it is recommended to flush the breaking system too. This protect the ABS system from corrosion. Do not forget to replace brake bleeding nipples with new one. They are cheap, and avoid costly problems in the future.
The EGR valve has to be inspected.
The last and most expensive service is the timing belt change between 60000miles to 100000miles.

Start by pulling the OBD 2 Codes( On Board Diagnostics)