Most common nonstarter issues. Motor cranks great. You can hear fuel pump when turn key to on position. Where to start diagnosing

If your 1999 Nissan Bluebird is cranking but not starting, here are a few things you can check: Fuel supply: Check if there is fuel in the tank and if the fuel pump is functioning properly. You can listen for a humming sound from the fuel pump when you turn the key to the "On" position. If you don't hear anything, the fuel pump may be faulty. Spark: Check if there is a spark at the spark plugs. You can remove a spark plug, connect it to the spark plug wire, and ground the spark plug to the engine block while someone cranks the engine. If there is no spark, you may have a problem with the ignition system, such as a bad ignition coil or ignition module. Battery: Check if the battery has enough power to start the engine. You can try jump-starting the car or using a battery charger to charge the battery. Starter motor: Check if the starter motor is working properly. You can try tapping on the starter motor with a wrench or hammer while someone cranks the engine. If the engine starts, the starter motor may be faulty. Sensors: Check if any of the engine sensors, such as the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor, are faulty. These sensors provide important information to the engine control module (ECM) to help it determine when to fire the spark plugs and inject fuel. If you are unable to identify the problem on your own, it may be best to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic who can diagnose and repair the issue.

Something wrong with your ignition switch if no warning lights or gauges turn on with key in the ON position. But if you hear the fuel pump turn on with key on, that portion is correct. Are you sure you have full power going to the switch? Often there are two power sources for the ignition. By that, I mean 2 hot wires going to the switch.

Check for fuel by pouring small amount of clean gas down throttle body and crank engine over. if it starts and runs just for a few seconds you have a fuel delivery problem. If it still does not run after several attempts check for spark at spark plugs. that should get diagnosis started

didnt give much to go by but------ if it turned over and didnt start check fuel pump -fuel filter -egr valve 3 most common nonstart than start again problem --also check for power to plugs bad wire or connection could cause nonstart ---if it didnt turn over check connections on battery or starter

Do you mean it cranks but won't start?
Check for spark at a spark plug wire. If you have spark, it's probably not the ignition, but a fuel issue. Do you hear the pump come on briefly when key is turned to on? You may need to stand by the gas tank with the cap off, while someone turns the key on. The pump should hum or whirr for about 2 seconds to prime the fuel system. Then it will shut off until car is cranked over. If the pump and the ignition is working, check fuel pressure.
If you had no spark, it could be the coil, or crank position sensor, or...well, you would have to diagnose the ignition system.
If the problem is not cranking over, check all connections at starter and battery for a clean tight connection. Check for power at the starter solenoid when key is held in crank position. If power there, the solenoid must be bad. If no power the circuit from ignition switch to the starter solenoid has a problem ( like the starter relay or the neutral safety switch).
Good luck.

How are you diagnosing it looses spark ?
Could be an issue with the Fuel Pump relay or the PATS system

If you get a crank no start, turn the key to the off position. Make sure you can hear the fuel pump run ( in the fuel tank, by the fuel door on the box ) by rolling down the window. Turn the key from off to run and wait to hear the fuel pump cycle. At the same time the theft light in the cluster should go out. Do both of those happen correctly ?

Try swapping the Trailer Tow adapter Reverse relay with the fuel pump relay.
My '01 had cases of crank no start, which I attributed to not holding the speed pass away from the key correctly ( causing PATS to not be completed ) , and at ~ 34K miles the fuel pump relay went out.

The first thing you can do is listen and see if you can hear the fuel pump when when you turn the key to the run position. The pump should run for 3-5 seconds. If you can't hear it run than there will be a fuel pressure test port located on the fuel rail (the part that feeds fuel to the injectors). Remove the black cap and press in the valve with a small screwdriver making sure you are clear of it as it can shoot out gas a long way if there is pressure in the system.

If you get a dribble than the next thing to check is for power to the fuel pump. You'll need to get under the car and find the wiring harness that goes to the fuel pump. Check for power on the larger grey wire. It helps to have somebody assist you. There will be power for 3-5 seconds when the key is turned to the run position and any time the key is in the crank position. If there is power than you basically just diagnosed a bad fuel pump.

Another thing you can do is spray some carb spray into the throttle while somebody cranks over the engine. If the car starts than you know you have a fuel issue. If it does not start than you might have a spark issue.

A fuel plugged filter can cause driveability problems but will rarely if ever cause the vehicle not to start.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Good info on the PATS / theft light. Looks to be the PATS / HEC operation is functioning correctly

The Fuel inertia switch only cuts power to the fuel pump, so if tripped, the truck would have a crank no start issue. Do you have a crank no start, or no crank issue.

To reset, just press down on it. To check if the switch is tripped, check for power at the connector to the fuel inertia switch

Engine compartment fuse # 10 ( 20A ) to the fuel pump relay -> Dark Green w/ yellow stripe wire to the fuel inertia switch -> pink w/ black stripe wire to the fuel pump module.
Check the pink w/ black stripe wire to ground with a meter for power, with the key in the run position.

If you turn the key from off to run ( do not start ) you should hear the fuel pump cycle ( hum, then turn off ).

Could be an issue with the fuel pump relay ( my '01 had a crank no start at ~ 35K miles, bad fuel pump relay ). I proved this out ( after a stupid ID10T error in my diagnoses process ) by jumpering the normally open contacts in the fuel pump relay socket, and then installing the trailer tow reverse circuit relay into the fuel pump relay socket ( same full size Ford Relay ).

Jumpering the fuel pump relay in the relay socket ( remove relay and use jumper wire ), red line


If you have a no crank issue, could be the DTR ( Digital Transmission Range ) sensor on the driver's side of the trans is out of alignment.

Check the start motor relay ( on the firewall on the passenger side ) for power on the Tan w/ Red stripe wire when the key is in the start position ( this is from the ignition switch through the DTR when in park or neutral to the starter motor relay ).

You can test another route, turn the key to the run position, and apply power to the Tan w/ Red stripe wire on the starter motor relay in the engine compartment on the firewall. BE CAREFUL, the motor should turn over, keep clear of moving parts.

Post back a comment to this problem with the results of the testing.

Thanks

Alarms usually won't allow the engine to crank. If it is the alarm, arming then disarming it usually gets them to start. However, you probably aren't that lucky. Probably the most common problem for Cherokees with ignition issues is a crank sensor or a fuel pump. Listen to hear if the fuel pump runs when you turn the key to the run position (it will only run for 2 seconds, so have someone else turn the key while you listen at the gas filler neck)