How do you remove a2001 oldsmobile alero rear hub assembly removal

SOURCE: Replacing rear disk rotors on 2003 Mercedes E320

Generally when you remove the caliper assembly the rotor slides over the hub assembly. Since I have not done a brake job on this particular model, it may possibly be held in place by the hub nut. Remove the caliper assembly first in order to be sure. I could only find two diagrams for the brake assembly for the E320, neither one had the size of the nut or allan bolt. The easiest way to get the size is to measure from one flat area directly across to the other flat area this will give you the size for the socket and allan wrench needed. If in the US, keep in mind that this is in a metric measurement, so it will calculate to millimeters, which makes it much easier to measure than the American standard. Also, if you do have to remove the hub nuts, they will not have to be replaced unless you scar the threads or round the corners.

SOURCE: Replacing the rear rotors on a 2003 E320

So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.

This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.

SOURCE: need to know if i

here are step by step instructions on the removal and installation of your fuel tank and fuel pump. please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.
Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
   
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
   
3. Drain the fuel tank.
   
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
5. While holding the modular fuel sender assembly down, remove the snapring, if equipped or if equipped with a cam lock ring use Fuel Sender Lock Nut Tool J-39765 to press down and rotate the cam lock ring to remove it.
   
   WARNING If the modular fuel sender assembly is retained by a snapring, it may spring up from its position. When removing the modular fuel sender from the tank, be aware that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float.
   
   • Fuel sender assembly
     
   • External fuel strainer
     
   • Connector retainer from the wiring harness and the fuel pump
     
6. Gently release the tabs on the sides of the fuel sender at the cover assembly. Begin by squeezing the sides of the reservoir and releasing the tab opposite the fuel level sensor. Move clockwise to release the second and third tab in the same manner.
   
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Fuel pump electrical connection by lifting the cover assembly
     
   • Baffle and pump assembly from the retainer by rotating the fuel pump baffle counterclockwise
     
   • Fuel pump outlet by sliding it out of slot
     
   • Fuel pump outlet seal
     

1. • Fuel pump outlet with a new seal by sliding it in the reservoir cover slots
     
   • Fuel pump and baffle assembly onto the reservoir retainer by rotating it clockwise until seated
     
   • Lower retainer assembly partially into the reservoir by aligning all 3 sleeve tabs and pressing the retainer onto the reservoir making sure all 3 tabs are firmly seated
     
   
   NOTE Gently pull on the fuel pump reservoir to assure it is secure. If not secure, replace the entire fuel sender.
   
   • Connector retainer to the wiring harness and the fuel pump
     
   • External fuel strainer
     
   • Snapring, if equipped to the retainer slots while holding the modular fuel sender assembly down or use Fuel Sender Lock Nut Tool J-39765 in order to install the cam lock ring
     
   • Fuel tank
     
   • Negative battery cable
     
2. Pressurize the fuel system and verify no leaks.
   

SOURCE: how to use a slide hammer to remove a stuck hub

MOUNT THE SLIDE HAMMER IN THE BOLT HOLE AND PULL OFF GENTLY

SOURCE: 2001 ram 2500 how to remove the wheel hub assembly

Remove tire. Remove caliper and caliper holder. Remove rotor. Using a 36 MM socket remove center nut and slide hub off spindle. If hub does not come off freely use wheel puller to remove hub.Loosen front wheel lug nuts. Jack up and support front of truck with jack stands ( put them in the middle so both you can get to both sides of the truck). Remove tire, Remove caliper and caliper holder. romove rotor ( I had to use a 2x4 wedged between rotor and lower controll arm rubber stoper. then started truck and turned the wheel right or left to pop rotor free). remove 3 bolts that hold hub to knuckle. on the next step I used a steel pipe about 1 1/2 foot i think about 2 inches in diamater. wedge it between lower controll arm rubber stoper. then start truck turn the wheel left or right to let power steering pump do the work. It poped it off easy for me both sides in less than 1 hour. put alot of anti seize on the new hubs and bolts in case you have to replace them again. use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts. Great time to replace brakes as long as you are in the area. hope this helps.