1998 Toyota Sienna Logo

Related Topics:

Madu Posted on Mar 30, 2017

Sienna 1998 Vacuum coming to booster is low, making pedal to be little hard vacuum hose is not leaking, nipple on manifold is also slow, nipple had no blockage. hissing sound from air filter is louder

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on May 19, 2009

SOURCE: 1993 f250 7.3 diesel - hard pedal, hard to stop,

Change the master cylinder on your booster. had the same problem with early 90's ford ranger. The pistons inside the master cylinder are probably worn...... Make sure to bench bleed the new master cylinder....

Ad
roniecon

Ronny Bennett Sr.

  • 6988 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 20, 2010

SOURCE: I have a '97 F250 diesel with about 180K. The

Make sure the calipers are not locked down on the rotors.

Anonymous

  • 3911 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2011

SOURCE: the brake pedal is hard

you need a new vacuum booster installed. take it to a shop, this is not something you can do in 10 minutes with a hammer and pliers. may save some money getting the part at a parts store instead of a dealer. make sure the guy working on it rules out a bad vacuum hose connection before he takes a wrench to it.

Anonymous

  • 274 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 09, 2012

SOURCE: hard brake pedal on a 1998 toyota sienna

Problem with master cylinder will cause that sort of problem some times.

rustfarmer

David Harrelson

  • 5456 Answers
  • Posted on May 01, 2015

SOURCE: how much should I expect to pay to replace the vacuum brake booster ?

Call parts store for price of part. Replacement is not difficult so expect $100 to $150 labor.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1helpful
4answers

How much should I expect to pay to replace the vacuum brake booster ?

Call parts store for price of part. Replacement is not difficult so expect $100 to $150 labor.
1helpful
2answers

Hard brake pedal

You can only have whatever the engine vacuum is
at any time.
Is there vacuum to the booster check valve
& is the valve working,assuming you have the
old one or a new one with the new booster.
Does fluid flow out all 4 corners?
Are the Rubber Flex Hoses Collaped
Calipers Rusted & frozen?
Did you remove the master & clean out
the moisture from around the piston
That is where you start,then flush & on to
every component in the system, if they are
on the vehicle for many years
You do realize brake fluid gets changed every
2 years on all vehicles or you got big problems with
moisture in years to come
3helpful
3answers

Are there vacuum hose on the brakes hydraulic system?

NO. the vacuum is used to make the brake pedal easy to push, power brakes. the pedal would be hard without vacuum, that is why the pedal gets hard with the key off and engine not running. the problem you are having is more of a hydraulic problem.
Have the brakes checked asap. the brake system may have a leak causing the pedal to go low. check the fluid level and if it is low or empty then there is a problem, could be a rotted brake line leaking or a wheel cylinder leaking.
0helpful
1answer

Hard brake pedal on a 1998 toyota sienna

Problem with master cylinder will cause that sort of problem some times.
3helpful
1answer

I replaced the master cylinder and brake pads and my brakes still dont work on my 1998 chrysler sebring

Have you tested your brake booster and your calipers?Your brake booster doesn't make any noise, and it doesn't use any electricity or gasoline, but it ensures that you can stop your car with only a light touch of the brake pedal. Things weren't always like that: before the invention of the vacuum brake booster, cars still stopped. It's just that you had to really stomp on the brake pedal. The modern brake booster is an ingenious device that operates using something that your engine generates whenever it's running: vacuum. The brake booster takes engine vacuum via a rubber hose that runs from the intake manifold, and the brake booster uses that vacuum to amplify the pressure you put on the pedal. A light application of the brakes is translated by the brake booster into significantly more pressure on the brake master cylinder, ensuring that your car stops quickly. So what happens to the brake booster if your car stalls, resulting in a loss of engine vacuum? Early designers realized that gas engines were hardly foolproof, so they designed a little check valve into the brake booster circuit. The brake booster stores enough vacuum to provide full boost for two or three pedal applications even after the engine dies. The check valve on the brake booster is what keeps that vacuum from leaking out. And speaking of leaks, that's the reason most brake booster units have to be replaced. As your brake booster ages, the rubber seals and diaphragms that hold the vacuum tend to wear out and crack. If the brake booster can't hold vacuum (despite the check valve's best efforts), its time is up and you'll need a new or remanufactured new brake booster.
0helpful
2answers

Replaced plugs and now wont stay running and the brake pedal is tight very hard to push

Hello donmicca,

On the back side closest to the fire wall the brake booster vacuum line runs from the intake manifold to the booster. It may be that it was dislodged when you changed the spark plugs, just reconnect it and that should solve the problem.

Regards,
netvan
0helpful
1answer

I have a 2001 Toyota sienna. my brakes where working fine then all of a sudden i had to push the peddle all the way to the floor to stop.could this be my Master cylinder or power brake booster.my brake...

It sounds like the vacuum booster control unit that gives you the power assist check the main vacuum hose that clamps to the unit it mabey leaking engine vacuum or the other end of the hose where it attaches to the intake manifold if there is now leak the unit maybe bad
0helpful
1answer

, apower brakes have no pressure when pedal pushed, no brake line leaks, pushes hard when engine turned off acts like power assist is leaking thru

I would check the medium sized rubber hose that goes to the brake booster from the inlet manifold as it can swell internally and prevent vacuum getting to the power booster. Replace if necessary. I would also check all those pesky little rubber vacuum hoses that are used for pollution control. They tend to go hard and split where they connect to the metal piping if they are over 10 years old, allowing air / vacuum leaks into the inlet manifold. It could also mean that the rubber diaphragm inside the brake booster has developed a leak and causing loss of power assistance.

0helpful
1answer

Van is hard to stop when you press on breaks. Break padel is very hard to push down when breaking. Wonder if there is some type of vaccum leak.

The vacuum booster is mounted on the fire wall behind the brake pedal. the master cylinder is mounted to it. there is a black hose that is connected to it. that is the vacuum hose. it goes to the intake manifold (engine). check to see if it has come off or is cracked or broken. if everything checks out check vacuum at the hose. if tis there then the diaphram in the booster is bad. replace the booster let me know if you need help with that
2helpful
1answer

At times when brake is applied,engine dies and brake light comes on,and check engine soon light comes on. Engine will start right away,but service eng light stays on

It sounds as if the brake booster is leaking. When you press the brake pedal, vacuum is drawn from the engine supply, if the booster is leaking, it allows too much vacuum to leak, stalling motors & triggering sensors. There is a check valve located between the line that comes from the engine manifold over to the brake booster & that can also cause problems.

Plug that line & use your brakes, if it cures the problem, you've found your issue.

Other than that, if you have another vacuum leak, the use of the brakes could just make it so bad that it then triggers symptoms so you shold check your vacuum lines. Vacuum leaks can be identified by usiing a can of carb. cleaner with a nozzle, spraying a small amount in bursts near vacuum lines, connections, and plugged lines. If there is a leak, the engine will stall or slow when it draws in the carb cleaner and you should be able to identify where the leak is. Go slow, spray only a little at a time & allow it to dissipate as it is a flammable product.

good luck
Not finding what you are looking for?

76 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Toyota Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

15088 Answers

ROBERT GARCIA
ROBERT GARCIA

Level 3 Expert

926 Answers

Are you a Toyota Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...