What causes the engine to switch off itself after a couple of minuteswarming it, is it the compression or wiring? the car is 1992 2.6 i VW Caravella

the cam belt last\s only 100kmiles. or 160k-meters
cheap belts less, even by 1/2 that
when bad is snaps or slips.
when that happen spark ends, or a the leas cam and spark are timed now way way way RETARDEDDDDD
compression 1/2 normal
and if PCM sees spark die it cuts fuel last.
modern are cam way off cut spark an fuel in the blink of any eye.
ending bent valves (hope)
"All VW engines since about 1992 are interference motors."

as seen here.

https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/us/051198119gen-cambelt-kit-for-1-5-to-1-8-engines-genuine.html

the problem with pulling the fuse for your fan is that your fan wont come on anymore therefore it won't cool the engine and your engine will probably overheat and that is a very dangerous thing for the motor. A temporary fix would be to pull the fuse and put in a toggle switch then you could turn the fan on and off manually. You need a toggle switch that flips on and off only. There are two connections for the toggle switch. Connect two wires to the toggle switch and run one wire to one side of the fuse and the other wire to the other side of the fuse in place of the fuse itself.

code refers to cylinder misfire no 3 cylinder detected==causes--spark plug--HT lead/s--injector--ignition coil--low compression-- wiring. Have a compression test done to check for engine head gasket/ valve faults first as it would be a waste of money to replace everything else to find that was the fault. Replace the coil then the HT lead ending up with the plug

There is an easy way to determine whether this is the switch or the motor itself. Remove the door panel and locate the wiring that goes to the window motor. Disconnect the wiring harness and apply 12V to the terminals on the motor. If it moves smoothly, the problem is most likely the switch or possibly a relay. If the motor does not move with 12V applied to the terminals, then the motor itself is defective.

Does the passenger's front window go up if you use the passenger door switch? If it does the problem is most likely the master switch in the driver's door. But before you go looking for a switch take some time and check the wire harness in the door's for cracks or wires rubbing and chafing insulation. VW power windows are very sensative to this. The most common area for chafing and cracking is where they go into the door from the body. You can slide the boot back and there is some room to pull the harness out of the door a couple inches. Tape up any suspicious spots.
The heater problem is also likely the switch in the dash. There is nothing repairable in there, you have to replace it. Sit down, aftermarket it will cost you about $300. The whole heater panel must be replaced. The price on the master switch isn't much better, if you can get it. Do some calling around to scrapyards and try to find used parts, if you can.
You can also go to a website "vwvortex.com". This is a forum dedicated to VW owners and is easy to join. No money just an e-mail address. Body problems will be answered under the "B3" forum and engine problems will be under "16valve" because you should have the 2.0 liter 16 valve engine in a Passat. They also have classified ad sections and you may be able to get parts there as well. This site has a lot of info and technical advice in it and would be well worth joining. If there is an easy way to fix it they will know it. They also know where the cheapest parts are. Hope this helps.

begin with the #1 piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. Position your distributor and rotor to match up to the #1 plug wire. If you look under the glove box under the carpet there is a single wire with a disconnect in it. Unplug it from itself. If you do not unplug this wire it will burn valves, piston tops and never time correctly. With this wire unplugged time is just like a normal vehicle. Just remember to turn the engine off replug the wire and then let it idle for a few minutes. Turn the engine off, restart it and then you should be good to go. Cranking it and letting it idle gives the computer time to reset itself.

hi, if your engine is low on compression then this could be down to a couple of problems the first and most likely is that the head gasket is leaking gasses causing the loss of compression the only real other problem you could have is a bad valve. both of these problems would require the cylinder head to be removed so their is a lot of work involved ok

-It could be low compression due to blow head gasket, Burn valve. Bad injector (s). Low fuel presure


Good luck


Mai

look above the clutch cable the is a rubber boot, abot 8-10 inches long. If u notice on either end of this boot are rubber prongs, or ears or whatever u wanna call em. Compress the cable by hand trying to bring these rubber ears as close to each other as possible. Once this is done, use a wire and wrap the wire around both ears as this will prevent the cable from decompressing. Might have to compress it by the pedal itself, but should be able to do it by hand. When u wrap the wire, do it in a figure 8 fashion because u have to get all 4 rubber ears otherwise the cable will decompress on one side.

Bought a very reputable diy service manual for the vehicle, and that plus a bit of thought and nous gave me the cure: no intrinsic problem other than loose relay connections. Went round with the wiring diagrams as guide checking all electrical connections in tight and relays fuses etc all good. Switched on and no problem any more.

By the way, vehicle is 1992 VW Polo - not Fox (which in UK is a variant of the Polo)