20 Most Recent 1992 Volkswagen Fox Questions & Answers

hi It depend how much fuel have been used.If you was driving on the reserve fuel. Then that 10 euro fuel just have covered your reserve fuel to be honest. And you will hardly see the needle move..

You don't say whether the engine has a carb or is injected. If it is injected the clicking noise could be the idle air valve or similar that will move to a different position when the ignition is switched on and then move periodically until the engine is started. Certainly it isn't a good idea to have unwrapped wiring laying over the engine and it could lead to trouble if it hasn't already done so. I seem to remember those engines used a hall effect trigger in the distributor. Apologies if I am wrong about that, it is a long time since I have maintained one. The hall effect distributor was fairly efficient but they could give trouble. The main trouble was they rarely just failed and got it over with but spent a while playing silly devils, leaving customers feeling foolish and mechanics scratching their heads in confusion. Officially a replacement distributor was the only repair and cost silly money but Bosch did produce a repair kit for a small fraction of the price. I still have one on the shelf - somewhere... You need to physically check the spark power and quality and if it isn't enough try carefully and patiently cleaning the contacts on the side of the distributor and those to the ignition amplifier if that type is fitted and check the wiring for continuity. Might work, might not. For an engine to start it must have compression, a good cranking speed, the right amount of fuel, timing and a good spark. When an engine doesn't start one or more of those requirements is missing and only you can discover which and you do that by careful and systematic checking and begin by concentrating on the basics. The oil light could be worrying. It might be faulty or it might be signalling there is insufficient oil pressure. As soon as you get the engine starting reliably you must not lose any time getting that checked out. Usually it is cheaper to fit a new switch at the start and hope for a cure but if the pressure really is low it must be fixed, whatever it takes... Good luck!

You've done most of the work, its tracing back along the socket wire to find a bad connection. Invariably its a bad earth.

check your igniton fuse if that is good replace your ignition switch in steering colum

Mine is doing the exact same.

Have two solutions, will try it later today:

1. Unlock with remote tnen lock with key and then unlock with key.
2. Might be a power problem, check that batery is good.

The best thing you can do at this point is get the repair manual. You may find it at your local parts store or purchase it on an internet site. This way you will have all the specs; the main bearing, rod caps, cylinder head, etc torque specs.

these are common problems when they get hgh miles the clips and rubber/plastic grometts crack and get loose causing shift problems dealership sells bushing kits and you can replace them pretty easy

Relay is about right. Just pull out the relay open it and look it over for burnt terminals. Then check it for continuity.