How do i prevent 99 s10 center link studs from turning?

if you can get to the back try with a mole wrench to hold the back while turning the front, if you cannot you will have to try and break the stud then replace with a larger one or get the hole welded up to the correct size, I hope this helps,

It can be difficult to make the determination without someone helping you. The pitman arm comes off the steering box output shaft and is the first motion that is evident from steering input. To check play here, let vehicle remain on the ground to where the front tires touch and restrain any movement. Have assistant turn steering wheel back and forth while you note any movement between shaft and drag/center link connection. At the sane time slide over to passenger's side of drag/center link and note any movement between the fixed idler arm and its connection to the drag/center link. Some slight movement is allowable, but substantial movement requires replacement. A good step-by-step instruction for replacment can be found here: http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/pitman-arm-repl.htm

Once safely on jack stands, have your assistant grasp the driver's side tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and make short quick movements in and out. Observe any movement. Closely inspect movement at the inner and outer tie rods as well as their connection to the drag link.

Replace any item that is excessively worn. Use a pickle fork or ball joint separator tool to dismantle and take measurements of length of worn out items in order to approximate re-installation of new part.
Check out this video for other hints: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc8glzE6eeo

Once you have replaced the worn parts you will still need to have a front-end alignment, but this will get you close. Good Luck!

Maybe you got the idler arm on upside down.

No need to replace the hub just the studs. The come in from the back and are splined to prevent the stud from turning with the nut. Remove the hub --drive out the broken studs and put the new ones in from the rear and drive them back in. Get the studs from the dealer spares or a good tyre retailer.

pit man arm to steering gear nut 186 ft lbs.

pit man arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

idler arm to frame nut 73 ft lbs.

idler arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
   • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
     Steering components
     
     
   • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
   • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
   • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod
     
     
   • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud
     
     
   • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
   • Relay rod from the vehicle
3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
6. Clean the threads on the ball studs

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Relay rod to the vehicle
   • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
   • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
   • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
   • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
   • Tie rod ends
   • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Check the wheel alignment
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

The idler arm will be bolted to the passenger side of the frame with 2 bolts. It connects into a tapered hole in the center link, you will need a "pickle fork" tool (a long rod with two prongs, like a fork) and a large hammer, to seperate the centerlink from the idler arm. You'll need to put the fork between the idler arm and the centerlink, and hit it with the hammer until they seperate.

Not on front wheel drives,the hub needs to be removed to do it.

Hello Miguel Thank you for using FixYa.com my name is David I hope this Helps you out.
Studs often get damaged from overtightening or from cross threading a nut on the threads. A damaged stud is replaced by unscrewing it from the part and installing a new one of the exact same size.
Stud replacement can be difficult because the stud has often been in place for a long period of time. There has been constant heating and cooling, corrosion, and rust buildup between the stud threads and the internal threads of the part. These factors combine to make some studs very difficult to remove.
The first step in stud removal is to use penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion to free the stud from its mating threads. Soak the area of the threads with penetrating fluid. Allowing the fluid to soak into the threads overnight will make it easier to remove the stud.
Before removing the old stud, measure the distance it sticks up from the surface. This measurement will be needed later when installing the new stud. Use a 6-inch scale to measure from the part surface to the top of the stud. Write the measurement down so it can be referred to later.
A stud remove is used to remove studs. It is installed over the stud. The jaws on the stud remover grip the outside of the stud. A wrench fits on the stud remover and allows the technician to rotate the stud in a counterclockwise direction to remove the stud.
If a stud remover is not available, a stud can be removed with two nuts. Locate two nuts that are the correct thread size. To thread onto the stud. Start one nut and thread it all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This nut will be the drive nut. Start another nut and thread it down until it contacts the first nut. This is called the jam nut.
Put a wrench on the bottom drive nut and hold it in place. Put another wrench on the jam nut and tighten, or "jam" it against the drive nut. The jam nut will now hold the drive nut in position on the stud.
Now put an open-end wrench on the bottom drive nut. Turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Turning the nut in this direction causes it to want to unscrew the stud. Instead the forces cause the stud to unscrew.
When the old stud is out, inspect the internal thread. If it appears rusty or damaged, clean up the thread by running the correct size tap through the threads as previously explained. Compare the new stud with the old one. The studs should be exactly the same thread size and the same length.
Check the vehicle's service manual to determine if the threads of the new stud should be coated. If the stud should be locked in place and not easily removed, you may need to use a threadlocking compound or threadsealing compound. Threadlocking compounds are on studs and other fasteners when vibration might cause them to unscrew. Thread sealants are used when a stud extends where liquids, such as oil or coolant, could get on the fastener.
Antiseize compound is used on the stud threads to prevent the stud from reacting with the metal on the internal threads. If this happens, the stud could stick or seize. Antiseize compound prevents this reaction and makes the stud easier to remove the next time.
After the new stud is properly coated, it can be installed. Start the stud by hand, making sure it enters the threads securely. Turn the stud in as far as possible by hand before using any tools. Then use two nuts as described earlier to drive the stud into the part. Use the depth measurement made on the old stud to be sure it is driven in the correct depth.

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