20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet S-10 Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. It is here https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+chevy+s10+firing+order ..

well learn how to tests spark, all spark plugs not just 1. if sparks is bad, and the PCm detects it bad the PCM cuts fuel so guessing fuel first is dead wrong, and you took a bath in fuel for nothing, wow that is brave. cranks but will not start and run. 4.3 is old push rod engine, no cams in head, fuses good and now scan the PCM after cranking for 5 seconds do not turn off key let the tool see there errors now on any dead engine. sorry you need have scan tool if engine actual is good. the rules are. in order

1. engine good, egr not stuck open or CATS melted.
2. spark tests good on all 6 cylinders. google how and learn
3. if spare is good we try test fuel next, instant start in a can spray.
4. if that works we check fuel pressure next. (and last see why?

#1 engine passes a compression test, (a TOOL)

all cars with Hvac, same answer an newer more. V6 engine? all fuses good the blend door motor or controls are bad./ but wait car is 21years old wana bet 2 or 3 things wrong. what year did heat or AC cold ever work rigth. what I do is on blow high. I fix heat first. as that can fix AC next. see and is far less work. 1: fuses good. all. 2: make sure engine coolant hits 180f first or more if not the thermostat is NO GOOD ,7 year live and is 3x that now,??? 3: all that good I put my hands then on the 2 heater core hose and both are to hot to hold there hand flies off. or TODAY for 10 years now mY IR gun $15 shows 180f on both hoses for sure hot and same. if not core needs to be flushed, I use hose garden there,. 4: ok dampers are bad. easy no?, get heat first. the damper may becalled the blend door, and can stick in any wrong position, even half cold and hot, so both fail. ac on , ac compressor spins due to clutch there engaged. let me now see your dampers, I bet are not cable drive. (NOT ) but motors. yes! (Drive + gears) $15 motor, +door the cheezy door is plastic, and its axle too and they can break. no fun ever that last one. 5 doors in this beast, recirc door must close for sure AC cold wanted. check out this drawing,. A AND B MUST WORK RIGHT FIRST. for sure B is bad, IMO. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8625836&cc=1371473&pt=10721&jsn=918&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1XyS%2BrEifIwvxWIl7Mt9zft%2BWrd9NkObID6vX0VSfQvQu4KjTdKrzbDUBi9MzX%2FMdafUFWZ%2BkPLPhA3p459yzN5jahF9CkWK61AE1gwRyc1NvXL9FfT%2F%2B2BXv80iK7nRXkPJQ6WbGXpJD5cmNW5FuSgER45pFXZP9gF8yf5jAxCBlXWYBa9QGG4X%2FngELzn8NSIgX5hPEmDwCiSG0W7freU0VQqV9L6cmUjflywc9%2BSPIapXbyRYLbonvkJcLKf2nhWbmFk%2Fe7WC08kRlg3AKyOtFoK%2BxmzpvfwWn9D5v%2FSFbpXednr7t1flFjaVn3B2QAIcU5SNMdYSfoec8G89pBszW4XfvOj7yKidF1AsM2ozLqM6l3FLzje1FotR3lN6cw%3D%3D good luck , but do the tests to find cause my jeep i pull he damper b and the axle see there is not broken then i spin that by hand and can go full range the motor is dead. easy easy fix, 2/3 screens and a whopping $15 rockauto.com, sells brands SMP and DORMAN. both prime. and cardone1.

Speed sensor got unplugged it sounds like

been there doen this, remove the wheel, brake caliper and pad's, brake rotor, 4wheeldrive hub wheel bearing and abs asembaly ( this is all one unit, there are 3 bolts in the back side ot the spindle) upper and lower ball joints then finally the axel will come out, it will take alittle forse there is a snap ring on the diff end that takes a littel determination to get out, sound's like more work than it is, make shure u do one side at a time in case u foget how somthing goes and be carfull with the abs sensior wire and brake caliper hose! neither has to be diconected as long as u tie the componits up so thay are out of the way and won't fall any more proble fell free to ask i have owed s-10's all my life and curently have a 2001 s-10 blazer LT and a 1996 jimmy sle love them both and so does the wife! lol

Has the battery been disconnected, or has it gone dead? Every time the battery is disconnected, all trouble codes are cleared, the check engine light is turned off, and all system monitors are reset. For the monitors to get back to a 'ready' status, the vehicle needs to go through one or more (sometimes quite a few) drive cycles. When you go to the emission station, they check for codes, AND also check to see how many of your monitors are in a 'ready' status. (This keeps people from disconnecting the battery, and thus clearing any trouble codes, in order to pass emission tests). If you have not disconnected your battery for a while, but the monitors are still not showing 'ready', you need to have a qualified shop check out your computer and other electronic systems.

Most likely a temperature blend door motor needs replaced.

Although some keys do not have an embedded transponder, such keys are designed to give access to the vehicle only and not to allow engine starting. To allow engine starting there must be an embedded transponder in the key, programmed with the correct code. In the early days of passive immobiliser systems some manufacturers used a key fob to operate the central locking and to house the rice-grain-like transponder chip. Sometimes the key or the fob would break and the owner would attempt to start the engine fruitlessly as the fob would be in a pocket or handbag (purse). The fob had to be within a few inches of the ignition/steering lock...

First while the engine is running, look under the hood and see if the air conditioner compressor is turning. If it is not then using gauges hook them up and see if the system has pressure. If both gauges show 80 psi or more then you have an electrical problem somewhere in the system. Check fuses and connections. Hook up a 12volt feed wire to the positive feed connector on the compressor( green wire). If it starts running then check the electrical system. If there is no pressure or very little then there is not enough pressure to override the low pressure switch. Carefully add a lb of 134a freon to the system and see what happens.

no it cant-there are companies other than dealer that do flashing of computers

There are several error codes related to this - get a code reader and check for them.

Usually if there is a howl on acceleration from the rear it's the big pinion bearing,if the howl is on deceleration it's the small pinion bearing.(the pinion shaft with these bearing is the one in the diff that the driveshaft attaches to)

Get solution for this online at www.reliable-store.comand get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc

I'm assuming it's an automatic. That being said I'm also guessing it's a V6 with a distributor back by the firewall. THAT could be the 'clicking' you hear. IF my assumptions are correct i would remove the distributor cap and look at the terminals on the underside. You may very well see the terminals have had contact made to them by the rotor. Thus causing the 'clicking' and stalling. The distributor could be worn and has an excessive amount of 'slop' or play in the area where the shaft goes thru the housing. Causing the rotor to wander and hitting the terminals. Check out this video; Hope this helps.

Most likely a shift solenoid problem. It could turn into a valve body failure if filter changes have been neglected. Another possibility is a failed transmission control module. All of which can be repaired

The white smoke is probably steam caused by coolant getting into the cylinder(s) either from a faulty head gasket, cracked cylinder head or cracked engine block. The loss of heat from the heater indicated that coolant was being lost..

Make sure there is enough coolant in the engine ... if you are a few quarts low it will not get to the heater core. If there is enough there is something wrong with your heater door / actuator or cable.

Probably clips are broken...Check with auto body store that has clips . It might be as simple as replacing the clip and snapping the panel back into the mounting hole. It may be a bit tricky so take time to look at how it is mounted. Usually once you pull the whole panel off the other clips will break so you will need a few replacements. Most are plastic and relatively cheap. Super glue will not work.. When it gets cold the glue gets brittle and cracks. That is why panels are held on with clips.

Hello Dallas, There is a possibility that both bulbs are burned out or the paste that GM seals the lamps sockets with is preventing a good connection between the contacts. Remove the bulbs and test for power (with the brake pedal depressed or the running lights turned on.) If your multi meter reads voltage, it's the lamps, if not...check for continuity on the brake light switch (connected wires removed.) The headlight switch controls the running lights, the brake light switch controls the brake lights. Good grounds are also critical so make sure they have clean solid connections.

There is a fuel pressure regulator that has to be tested. If that tests OK, then have the injectors tested. The MAP sensor will tell the ECU to add extra fuel if it has failed.