The break light on my dash is on.not the abs light.the one that says BREAK E!I hecked break fluid and the e break is not stuck the break pushes to floor then properly releases.
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try bleeding lines, that can happen with air bubble in check valve, some check valves have a bleeder on them, if not set emergency break on rear it will push fluid back to master cyclinder, for front wheels collapes calipers to push fluid back. first look at mater cyclinder if tilted up you may need to lift front or back to level cyclinder before starting. Have used a baby nose cleaner to remove air bubble from master cyclinder be sure engage break padel when pulling fluid from master cyclinder
I think I would get the body computer scanned for trouble codes and find out why the ABS warning light is on first. The hissing noise usually means the booster is leaking vac but if the booster was faulty the brake pedal would be hard to push.
Check the abs module for trouble codes. You will need a high end scan tool or a specific abs code reader to do it.
The brake light is on likely because the abs light is on.
The airbag light might be a different story. Does the horn and cruise work?
I'd have the brake accumulator checked. Try this. From a cold start, e.g., an overnight stop, release the handbrake (as it also operates the dash berake light), start the engine, and time how long it takes for the brake light on the instrument panel to go out. If it's up near 45 seconds, your accumulator is probably on the way out. They do fail after some years.
Just open your hood and the reservoir will be on the drivers side on the fire wall. It may be caked with fluid on the side but it will have lines for max and min. It should be between that point, if its low, you either have a leak or you need to do brakes.
you need to check the break fluid level now i do think it is too late tho what it sounds like is air in your break system you need to bleed the breaks not doing so can damage the break booster you need to add fluid to the booster now as it will help and may not need bleeding if you keep driving the way it is you may loose your breaks all together which is a danger to you and others you need to have this attended asap it is not a hard job or expensive job when you put fluid in the car pump the breaks every time you need to or they get soft this forces the fluid through the pips altho the air may have no where to escape which is why we bleed them to let the air out hope this helps ricko
it should not be hard to do it, specially if it is mounted on the reservor cap or on the side of master cylinder, just buy the new one and pay attetion to the clips than some times just have to be depresed by hand
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