Inner tie rod end torque specs

• Axle Shaft nut - 177 ft-lb
• Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle bolts - 133 ft-lb

2003 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 v6. Changing steering rack and

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Jan 11, 2021 - Below are the torque specs you requested: Steering Rack-to-frame mounting bolts: 136 lb. ft. Outer tie rod nut: 37 lb. ft. Outer tie rod ...
1 answer · 1 vote: Coupler clamp bolt to the intermediate shaft: 33 ft. lb.

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  Torque specs for tie rod end castle nuts - JustAnswer

  https://www.justanswer.com > chevy > 2p3g8-torque-sp...
  Oct 24, 2009 - Tighten the clamp nuts 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) (except C3HD). On C3HD models, tighten the clamp nuts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm.

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Here is the inner tie rod end specs

Tighten the inner tie rod to 100 N.m (74 lb ft).

59 ftlbs

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Play in the steering wheel is likely from worn tie rod ends. Have your inner and outer tie rods checked. The outer tie rods are connected to the rod ends coming out of the rack on each side, and are connected to the wheels. The inner tie rods are not visible-but are on the rods under the protective boots on each end of the rack and pinion assembly.
You may need a new rack assembly, but first check if you just need new tie rods.

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Inner tie rods rarely if ever need to be replaced in my experience: outer tie rod ends are far more common. Its not impossible so here's how.

1. remove the tie rod ends from the knuckle.
2. remove the clamp for the rubber bellows on the rack ends, and slide the bellows down the rod.
3. Turn the rack to fullleft or right as needed to get access to the inner rod end that screws into the rack.
4. There's a lock tab that has to be bent flat. This locks the rod end into the rack.
5. You'll need a (probably) 32mm wrench to undo the rod end from the rack.
6. Note how the lock tab is fitted to the rack/rod end.

7. Put in the new tie rods.

If your garage mechanic told you the inner tie rods are worn out, I'd ask why they think so. At step 4. above, try rotating the rod. This should be quite difficult. There should be NO evidence of slop or wear in the inner joint. What more commonly wears is the bushes on the end of the rack. These bushes are easily replacable with the rack in the car.The tie rods have to be removed to do this. So, when the rods are off, inspect the rack bushes for wear.

SD

the inner tie rod is the joint right at the end of the rack,inside the gaiter/boot,the outer is called the track rod end.

you don't need to remove the whole rack but do need a special tool called inner tie rod tool. can be bought or borrowed form most auto parts stores. first remove wheel. next loosen the jam nut on inner tie rod at the end of outer tie rod. remove cotter pin and nut on outer. use seperator or pickle fork to seperate outer from knuckle. then remove the clamps on boot and remove. then take tie rod tool and find the right size end and turn with 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. it will turn hard at first cause of it being staked on to the threads. when it is off install new part with loc-tite on threads and tighten. when tight crimp inner flanges with either plier or hammer and punch to the rack. install in reverse order. remember to measure distance from clamp on outer side of boot to jam nut so you can get the alignment close until you get to shop for alignment.

45 Ft-lbs Tie-rod balljoint stud-to-steering knuckle nut, and 55 Ft-lbs Tie-rod (outer)- to- inner jam lock nut

pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck