20 Most Recent 1997 Chrysler Concorde Questions & Answers

Yes, they do have them. It tells you all about them in this link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Front+Oil+Seal+on+a+1997+Chrysler+Concorde ..

see above answer - and it's power steering fluid, not oil.

You need to test for spark on every cylinder and for adequate fuel pressure and volume.

I would suggest you start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You should have around 55lbs. but need at least 45lbs. for the engine to operate.

Cooling fan sensor switch, relay, fuse or bad fan

this could be several things but my guess is that you may need a new fuel pump. it runs after spraying starting fluid but not without. means its not getting fuel. check fuse, in fuse box. if none are blown. open fuel door with fuel cap off have someone listen by the fuel door turn the key on and they should here the fuel pump start to hum. if it is making a humming noise. then it could be a plugged up fuel filter not letting enough fuel to the engine. the fuel pressure switch may have went bad. if you have a pressure gauge check to see if there is the correct fuel pressure for your car.

The 3.5 is a great engine and in the Concorde pretty efficient for sure over 20 MPG. The 3.5 HO is 1st generation and has a 10.4 to 1 comp ratio. 89 octane is required later engines after 1998 had the compression ration lowered to 9.9 to 1 and 87 might be acceptable. Scheduled spark-plug change is usually 60K miles. If plugs have not been changed than I would certainty start with them. Check tire pressure against the driver door recommended. I expect if all else is well that at 60 MPH just under 2000 RPM in over drive and smooth.. This engine was built in Chrysler's Trenton engine plant in MI and is considered one of the best power planets at the time.

The cap you removed on the reservoir is the radiator cap. The reservoir is part of the sealed cooling system. There is no physical cap on the radiator itself. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Won't Start Symptoms Your car may not start for a number of reasons. The following list outlines the most common circumstances and tells you what action you can take to try to remedy each situation:

• The car cranks over but won't start. Check the fuel supply to your engine. If that's okay, check whether the electrical spark is getting to your spark plugs.
• The car makes a clicking noise but won't start. This sound usually means a dead battery. If not, check the wiring to and from the starter for a loose connection.
• The engine starts but dies. If your car has a carburetor, check your carburetor adjustment and your choke to see whether the choke is first closing and then opening. If you have fuel injection, you'll need professional help.
• The car is silent when you turn the key in the ignition. Check the battery terminal cable connections. If they look very corroded, force the point of a screwdriver (with an insulated or wooden handle) between the connector and the terminal post and twist it to lodge it firmly. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, you need to clean or replace your cables.

If this doesn't work either, then it's time to take it to a mechanic.

Do you notice any check engine lights coming on the dash when this happens, also has the vehicle had any recent repairs or any reason why this may be happening? Any input from you is helpful. I will check my resources and see what we can find out. Please advise

I'm sorry but if you had avoerheated it is probably the head gaskets. But also check the heater hoses and the bypass in the top front of the engine.

You say the head gaskets are fine, yet the compression is not. How do you know the gaskets are not blown ? Normally, when an engine runs hot, the gaskets expand and cannot contract, and the heads warp so they are not flat. You loose compression and usually have coolant in the cylinders. You can also loose compression but not have coolant leaking into the block. It depends on what warped.

It sounds like your heater core is leaking. It is just to the right of the middle of the dash. If you're limited in knowledge you might try and recruit some local help because it is quite a task to replace the heater core in the Intrepids and Concordes. If you must do it yourself go to the parts store and pick up a Hayne's repair manual for your car and at least you'll have fairly good instruction both written and photos to use. I hope this helps you out and Good Luck. Oh, when you get done with the task and refill the system, you'll have to bleed the system by way of the petcock on the thermostat housing, because if the air isn't purged from the system the car will still overheat. Again I wish you well and may you have very good luck.

Have you checked your antifreeze/coolant level? Had you added coolant right before it stopped working? There is a bleeder located on the thermostat housing that has to be bled when coolant is added, you simply start the car and let it run a few minutes (about 15 minute) to build pressure, then loosen the bleeder just a little bit (about a half a turn) and let the air out of system until it is fluid and not air bubbles. If None of this applies to your issue, then I would suggest having the system flushed, because there is a blockage in the heater core not letting the coolant flow through. As a last resort (because it is a big job for an individual, and expensive at the shop) you can replace the heater core. I say as a last resort, because the entire dash has to be removed to get to it... Hope this helps you out.