I have a mitsubishi lancer 1.3 GL. every time i disconnect the battery to do some work, the engine stalls it won't run at idle speed. when i take it to the mitsubishi service station (very far away) , it runs perfect and they say there's no problem.
today i changed the battery : it's the same problem: it stalls all the time, i have to keep accelerating, big problem in traffic jams.
thank you for any advice.
omar
I ve had a 97 Mitsubishi Legnum and it wasn't idelling at all.(so in trafic brake and accelarator pretty dangerous) The idelling motor was buggered. Replaced with a 2nd hand idelling motor. Still doesn't idle perfectly. But works OK. It wasn't idleling well in temperaturers below 0. but after a while will be fine now.
Mitusubishis are known for their idelling motor problems. Good luck...
Weird must be a ecu problem
Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
Engine stall or RPM fluctuates
at idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
his problem
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner from NAPA or
Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake
while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will
try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30
minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and
disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base
idle control
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the ecu is ok; it's probably a wiring problem, because i touched all the wires, and now it's working!
thank you, anyway
if you disconnect battery you will lose ecm memory which cause no idle when you reconnect battery ecm has to relearn its memory before your idle returns.
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