No fuel, no spark ignition module good.

Check for sparks. If sparks are good, check fuel pressure.
Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Get some engine starter spray. Follow instructions on spraying into intake. This will serve as a fuel source to test spark/ignition. You will want help cranking the car while you spray. If car stumbles and tries to run, you have a fuel problem. If after trying for a few minutes there is no change, then I would bet you don't have spark. Of course you could go further and say there could be a timing issue, no compression, etc. But I would start with the easy stuff first.
When was the last time you did a tune-up? Are the plugs in good shape?

REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR.AND PLUGS WIRES.IF GETTING NO SPARK TO PLUGS.CHECK SEE IF IGNITION COIL GETTING POWER.IF NOT CHECK IGNITION FUSE.IF POWER GOING TO COIL.FAULT EITHER COIL IS OPEN OR FAULT IN THE IGNITION MODULE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR.

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.

I gave you more than you should need

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause.

b) We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive ).If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Remove the starter and have it bench tested to verify.
a) If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck

So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, neutral safety switch ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables, ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charge the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery is more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit.Do not forget neutral safety switch its on your brake pedal and once depressed it closes the circuit to the relay so B+ can travel to it . Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. IN YOUR CASE YOU HAVE NEW PLUGS AND WIRES SO IT WILL BE EASIER TO CHECK FOR SPARK.If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair .THERE ARE FUEL PRESSURE AND VOLUME TESTS DONE TO VERIFY IF PUMP IS DEFECTIVE OR NOT. IF WITH THE TESTING PROCEDURES I'VE GIVEN YOUYOU CAN NOT DETERMINE WHETHER THE PUMP IS DEFECTIVE HAVE A REPAIR SHOP DO FURTHER TESTING ON THE PUMP. THESE TESTS ARE A LITTLE DANGEROUS and a real pain.
Good Luck

Low battery voltage can keep the coil / ignition control from firing. You need a good 12V to get everything working right. Get a full battery charge and try again. It might also be flodded by now.

Concerning the fuel issue, i would check these components listed below for faults and possible damage as well. any damage or apparent malfunctions in these specific devices will disrupt normal fuel flow in this vehicle. The list follows.

1. Inspect the Fuel Filter-- This filter may be clogged or dirty. replace if faulty.
2. Inspect the fuel pump relay-- This relay may be faulty and not functioning at this time. it will cut of the flow of fuel if so.
3. Inspect the Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator-- This may be a problem spot as well if it becomes unstable and unable to regulate the pressure.
4. Inspect the fuel pump-- This device actually pumps the fuel needed for operation. if its not working, it will disrupt the flow of fuel to the injection system as well.
5. Another problem spot will be the Engine Control Computer-- This device is vital to proper spark and fuel operation. if its malfunctioning, it will affect spark and fuel flow. check accordingly for faults. also know as the ECM/PCM.
6. Inspect the Fuel pump strainer--- This device could be clogged or dirty as well. replace if found to be dirty or clogged.

Concerning the Spark-- This issue can encompass many problem areas in the engine compartment. One common issue with a non spark issue would be the distributor cap or ignition coil. most newer vehicles will have the coil and older models will have the distributor cap design. I would check the distributor, if installed for a cracked cap or burned components as well. if your model has a coil ignition system, i would test its operational value as well. Also, check the Wireset as well.

Check the spark plug wires for worn or damage insulation. make sure they are connected to the plugs securely and tight.

Inspect the ignition switch for broken connections. this switch, if faulty, can affect proper ignition timing and spark as well. Your vehicle has a distributorless system and i will address the proper procedure that will allow proper testing results.

The distributorless ignition system used by 1991-94 2.3L and 4.0L, and all 1995-99 engines is referred to as the Electronic Ignition (EI) system. It eliminates the conventional distributor by utilizing multiple ignition coils instead. The EI system consists of the following components:

Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor Ignition Control Module (ICM) (EEC-IV systems only) Ignition coil(s) The spark angle portion of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Related wiring


I recommend testing all EI system components for faults. if there is a fault an any of the EI system devices, it will disrupt the ignition system and it will cause a non spark issue that will result in a non start.

Please rate and god bless:)

You can try to test the relay for function by swapping it with a known good working relay. If this does not work, you can put a jumper between the terminals that energize the pump (relay removed, ignition off). (On the Bosch Jetronic systems I used to work on, the pump would energize even with the ignition off). If there is still no sound, briefly turn the ignition on, and listen for the pump to energize. If you heard nothing, assume the pump is defective. I found most fuel pump problems and failures to occur in vehicles with 125,000 to 175,000 miles of use.

You may also try to check the Hall effect sensor ( a magnetic pulse detector that controls both spark and fuel flow) located within the distributor body (where the spark-plug wires attach to the distributor.

And finally, if that is good, check the ignition module within the distributor. It's a sealed transistorized circuit bolted to the inside of the distributor body with 5mm bolts.