What is the cable connected to the ignition that controls the dash board's gadgets

Yes it could be a fuse, or the blower motor, or the control on the dash.

something in the system is not connected
could be the VSS, , clutch switch, brake switch, ignition control module

Check the car battery, make sure the battery cables are connected properly. You may need to remove the cables and clean the battery terminals then reattach the battery cables.

That sounds like a bad alternator.

Initially it sounded like the typical dash gauge cluster solder problem on the main wiring harness of the dash circuit board, and possibly a low battery charge. Both very easy to fix. Your further description makes me think it might be the BCM (body control module). This is a bit more involved. If the battery is fully charged and battery cables are clean and in good condition, do you get any engine cranking or clicking sounds at all? If not, then I would strongly suspect the BCM. I fixed mine by taking the BCM out of the vehicle (not really too difficult) and locating a resistor on the circuit board labelled 331. There is only one of them with this number. I re-melted the solder on each end of this resistor, and have had no further electrical 'ghost gremlin' problems ever since. (over a year now) You may need to do the same with the solder joints on the dash gauge circuit board wiring harness. This problem has to do with defective solder used around that time period. I had to use these fixes on both a 1996 and a 1998 Voyager. Please post any other questions or diagnostic info.

Vehicles: Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, DenaliXL, YukonXL 1999-2005 with Distributorless Ignition System

Normally I'd recommend that you check your ICM (Ignition Coil Module), but the ICM in this vehicle is an integral component of the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), and is not separately serviceable.

In the US, one can go to Advance Auto Parts/AutoZone/Pep Boys, and get a free "ignition system check" which will tell you whether your alternator/voltage regulator may be failing/marginal. Also, by disassembling your battery and carrying it into the store, you can get a free battery load test on their in-store tester.

Also, you'll want to get a free "Check Engine Light" test from Advance/AutoZone/Pep Boys, since that'll give any DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) that the car's PCM may have stored. Once you have any DTC's stored by you car's computer, check the chart at the end of this solution for their interpretation - codes whose numbers exceed 1000 are Cadillac-specific codes. All of the included codes are stored in response to ignition coil faults.

These instructions apply whether your Escalade has a 5.3L or 6.0L engine.

Table of Contents:
Sec 1 - Adjustments - Ignition Timing
Sec 2 - Distributorless Ignition System - Description
Sec 3 - Ignition Coils - Removal and Installation
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SEC 1
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Adjustments - Ignition Timing

Ignition timing is preset and cannot be adjusted. Ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

On V6 motors the distributor is located in a fixed, non-adjustable position. DO NOT attempt to rotate the distributor otherwise damage may result.

On V8 engines the distributor can be rotated for proper alignment of the rotor to the cap. The engine base timing is not adjustable by rotating the distributor.

The 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L engines use a distributor ignition system.

The 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 8.1L engines use a distributorless ignition system.
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SEC 2
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Distributorless Ignition System - Description


The 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 8.1L engines do not incorporate a distributor to deliver energy from a common coil to the individual spark plugs. The electronic ignition (EI) system is responsible for producing and controlling a high energy secondary spark. This spark is used to ignite the compressed air/fuel mixture at precisely the correct time. This provides optimal performance, fuel economy, and control of exhaust emissions.

This ignition system consists of a separate ignition coil connected to each spark plug by a short secondary wire. The driver modules within each coil assembly are commanded ON/OFF by the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM primarily uses engine speed and position information from the crankshaft and camshaft position (CMP) sensors to control the sequence, dwell, and timing of the spark.

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SEC 3
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Ignition Coils - Removal & Installation


The ignition coil module is integrated in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Individual replacement is not possible, the entire PCM would need to be replaced.

Ignition Coils - Removal & Installation

If equipped with Regular Production Option (RPO) HP2, disconnect the Energy Storage Box (ESB).

Remove the spark plug wire from the ignition coil.

Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.

If equipped with regular production option (RPO) HP2, remove the auxiliary heater water pump bracket bolts.



Fig. 1 Removing the auxiliary heater water pump

Remove the auxiliary heater water pump from the studs, and reposition out of the way.

If equipped with RPO HP2, remove the starter/alternator control module (SGCM) cover bolts, and cover.

Remove the 3-phase cable nuts to the SGCM.

Remove the 3-phase cable from the SGCM.

Remove the 3-phase cable bracket nuts.

Remove the 3-phase cable bracket from the studs, and reposition the cable and bracket out of the way.




Fig. 2 Starter/Alternator Control Module Electrical Connections

Remove the ignition coil bolts. (see image below)





Fig. 3 Removing the ignition coil bolts

Remove the ignition coil.

To install:

Install the ignition coil.

Install the ignition coil bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).

If equipped with RPO HP2, position the cable (w/bracket) and install the 3-phase cable bracket to the studs.
Install the 3-phase cable bracket nuts and tighten the nuts to 133 inch lbs. (15 Nm).

Install the 3-phase cable to the SGCM.

Install the 3-phase cable nuts to the SGCM and tighten the nuts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

Install the SGCM cover and bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).



Fig. 4 Starter/alternator control module electrical connections (again)

If equipped with RPO HP2, position the auxiliary heater water pump and install it onto the studs.
Install the auxiliary heater water pump bracket bolts and tighten the bolts to 133 inch lbs. (15 Nm).




Fig 5 Removing the Auxiliary Heater Water Pump

Connect the ignition coil electrical connector.

Install the spark plug wire to the ignition coil.

If equipped with RPO HP2, connect the ESB

Testing

Connect scan tool to vehicle's Data Link Connector and follow scan tool instructions to download diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) to the scan tool.

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) list:

DTC P0351: Ignition Coil 1 Control Circuit
DTC P0352: Ignition Coil 2 Control Circuit
DTC P0353: Ignition Coil 3 Control Circuit
DTC P0354: Ignition Coil 4 Control Circuit
DTC P0355: Ignition Coil 5 Control Circuit
DTC P0356: Ignition Coil 6 Control Circuit
DTC P0357: Ignition Coil 7 Control Circuit
DTC P0358: Ignition Coil 8 Control Circuit
DTC P1351: Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage
DTC P1361: Ignition Coil Control Circuit Low Voltage

If a DTC indicates an ignition coil is faulty before replacing the ignition coil check wiring for short circuits, broken or chafed wires, loose connections and corroded terminals.

Check the blend door cable for proper attachment to the control panel and to the blend door. Try opening the door manually to see the you can get hot air out. If not, the door may be broken inside the heater box. If yes, correct/adjust the cable attachment for proper operation.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1990-97 Passat Models
Install the cable ends marked with a white or blue band to the control head assembly. The cables must be attached to the control head before connection to the system air flaps.

1. Remove the climate control head from the center dash assembly to access the control head cable ends.
2. Remove the lower dash panels as necessary to access the cable lever arms.
3. Attach the airflow distribution cable (cable 2) to the airflow distribution knob's lower control lever.

This cable can be identified as follows:
Operates the mode/central air flap Cable has a black sleeve and is 25.0 inches (634 mm) long Cable is marked with a white band

1. Press the cable's sleeve against the control head stop and install the retaining clip.
2. Attach the temperature control/air blend cable (cable 3) to the air temperature knob's control lever.

This cable can be identified as follows:

Operates the temperature control/air blend cable air flap Cable has a blue sleeve and is 21.0 inches (535 mm) long Cable is marked with a white band

1. Press the cable's sleeve against the control head stop and install the retaining clip.
2. Attach the airflow distribution cable (cable 1) to the airflow distribution knob's upper control lever.

This cable can be identified as follows:


Operates the footwell/defroster air flap Cable has a black sleeve and is 37.5 inches (954 mm) long Cable is marked with a blue band

1. Install the cable such that the blue band is over the retaining clip mount and install the retaining clip directly over the blue band.
2. Install the climate control head.
3. Set the air flow distribution knob to defrost.
4. Connect the longest airflow cable (cable 1) to the footwell/defroster flap lever on the heater's air box.
5. Press and hold the flap's lever toward the retaining clamp perch and install the cable retaining clip.
6. Set the airflow distribution knob to the Vent position.
7. Connect the short airflow cable (cable 2) to the central/mode flap's lever.
8. Pull and hold the mode flap's lever away from the retaining clamp perch and install the cable retaining clip. Check the operation of both air flaps making sure they can be heard contacting their stops.
9. Set the temperature control knob to full cold.
10. Connect the blue-sleeved cable (cable 3) to the air blend/temperature flap's lever.
11. Pull and hold the mode flap's lever away from the retaining clamp perch and install the cable retaining clip. Check the operation of the air blend/temperature flap making sure it can be heard contacting the stops.

Fig. Side view of the control head and cable location. 1. Footwell/defrost flap cable-2. Air distribution cable-3. Temperature control flap cable

Fig. Temperature flap cable location and adjustment

Firts you need to check the fuse for your instument light and if it good check the connections to the cluster for a loose connection. The fuse should be in the compartment under the hood. You might also try starting the van and very slightly turn the key backwards to the run position to see if they work then. There has been an issue with ignition switches and this problem before. You might also try turning the key on and waiting a few seconds for the dash lights to go off then start it, there may also be an issue with a circuit board for the dash and this helps re set the PC board instrument panel controller. It's behind the instrument faceplate

We have to assume the battery is usable, if not, anything else doesn't help. A couple of possibilities- First, get a simple, cheap device that uses a 9V battery and the car's cigarette lighter to prevent losing anti-theft codes. Once this is plugged in, remove the negative battery cable first, then the positive. CLEAN the battery connectors and terminals. Try to start the engine. If it still does the same thing, remove the negative battery cable again and follow it to its next connection and clean that point. While it is off, remove the other end of the positive cable which goes to the starter terminal and clean both points.
While under the hood, look for the cable connecting the engine block to the body of the car and clean both ends of that cable.
If the problem is still there, it can be related to one of these; the ignition switch, the starter solenoid or a corroded fuse connection. The starter is not protected by a fuse but the solenoid may be.
Good luck-

you may download it from
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