What is the fuel pressure from the main pump to the engine.trying to be certain that my fuel have the require pressure for starting

Certain vehicles require exact fuel pressure try checking fuel pressure,or checking relay fuel filter for restraints on fuel,fuel pressure regulator,my sister had a issue mechanic did everything and said that there was a short until she came to me and had me fix it instead of the pros lol just bought a delphi fuel pump sometimes paying about a hundred dollars more works 97 suburban is what she drove

It can be caused by a bad crankshaft sensor, plugged fuel filter, or clogged tank internal filter, as well as a failing fuel pump. Although the crankshaft sensor may not seem to be related to the fuel group, fuel demand is anticipated by counting the RPM's which is the crankshaft sensors job.
Now "hard to start" issues can be fuel pump pressure problems. But do not forget the "cold start routine" which requires a temperature sensor to set the engine management system for a cold start. It becomes less of a factor when the engine is warm but would not be responsible for low fuel pressure.
A simple test for vacuum leaks is to have the engine running and use a spray bottle of water on vacuum lines, intake gasket seams, EGR pod and the brake booster. A leak will reduce RPM or stall the engine.
For the internal tank filter, sometimes the plastic screen on the fuel pump deteriorates and clogs the pump intake. To test that, blow air into the fuel test port. This will help clear debris inside the tank temporarily, then check fuel pressure without driving the car and stirring the tank up. If pressure improves you know the root cause of your problems.

are you overheating to the point that your engine takes a whole day to cool down before working again?

Three things you may want to check out next in your problem diagnosis:

1. You may actually be getting power to the fuel pump through the functioning fuel pump relay and the good fuse, but the fuel pump itself may have failed - you can check by disconnecting the fuel pump electrical connector, and checking for battery voltage when the ignition key is turned to "Start".

2. The ignition switch itself may have failed, since it has been recalled on this vehicle. The recalled defect may have caused a failure of the switch to deliver power to the fuel pump at startup. Here's a list of all the recalls for the 1997 Accord:

Recall - Ignition Switch Replacement 02-031 09/24/2002
Recall 02V120000: Ignition Switch Defect NHTSA02V120000 05/01/2002
Recall 99V069000: Lower Ball Joint Replacement NHTSA99V069000 04/20/1999
Recall 98V231000: Air Conditioner Wire Harness Chafing NHTSA98V231000 09/18/1998
Campaign - Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Replacement 00-073 03/13/2001
Recall - A/C Wiring Harness Routing 98-072 10/13/1998

3. Testing the PGM-FI main relay is fairly involved (and not detailed in the information below). You may want to re-post your query asking for the testing & diagnosis procedure for this component alone.

Below find the 1997 Honda Accord manual entry for diagnosis & testing of the fuel pump electrical circuit.

TESTING

Fuel Pump Circuit

If you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, listen for the pump to operate by removing the fuel fill cap and checking to see if the pump can be heard running during the first two seconds after the ignition key is turned to the ON position. You should hear the fuel pump motor run.

If the fuel pump can be heard running, the fuel pump's electrical circuit is likely to be OK and the fuel pump operating pressure should be checked as outlined later in this section.

Once the engine has started, the fuel pump operation is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) via the PGM-FI Main Relay. The fuel pump receives its electrical power from the PGM-FI Main Relay, which is triggered for two seconds when the ignition switch is initially turned to the on position.

After the initial two-second startup signal is received, the PGM-FI Main Relay is controlled by the PCM. Because the fuel pump receives its power from the PGM-FI Main Relay, a problem with the ignition switch, PCM, or electrical wiring may not allow battery voltage to reach the pump.

To check the fuel pump wiring proceed as follows:

1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position.
2. Locate and detach the fuel pump electrical connector at the fuel tank.
3. You may have to remove the floor access panel. For specific details, see the fuel pump removal procedure in this section.
4. Fuel pump access is limited on some 1996-97 models of the Accord and may require you to work under the vehicle. Perform the following steps if that is the situation:

a. Raise the vehicle and safely support it on suitable jackstands.
b. Remove the protective cover from the fuel tank fuel hoses.

5. Detach the fuel pump electrical connector.
6. Connect a suitable Voltmeter between the fuel pump positive terminal of the electrical connector and a known good chassis ground.
7. Hold the electrical connector of the PGM-FI Main Relay so the wire side of the female terminals is visible and install a jumper wire between terminal Nos. 4 and 5.
8. When the ignition switch is turned ON , battery voltage should be present at the fuel pump electrical connector.
9. If the battery voltage is present, check the fuel pump's ground.
10. If the ground is "OK", check the fuel pump.
11. If battery voltage is not present, trace the wiring harness and check the cause for an open or shorted circuit.
12. If all wiring checks out, test the fuel pressure, as outlined later in this section.

Fuel Pump Pressure

The fuel pressure should be checked at the fuel rail or at the fuel feed line for the fuel rail. The fuel pressure is checked with the engine started, thus the fuel pressure gauge must not interrupt the flow of fuel to the fuel rail and the fuel injectors.

To attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressurized fuel loop requires the use of an adapter that is capable of safely withstanding the fuel system fuel pressure.

WARNING
Checking the fuel system fuel pressure requires the use of an in-line fuel pressure gauge with the engine running. Do not perform this check if suitable test equipment and fuel fittings are not available. The fuel system operates under pressure, if any fuel leakage is noticed while performing this check STOP immediately and do not continue until the source of the leak is resolved. Do not perform this test near sources of heat, spark, or flames. This test must be performed in a well-ventilated area.


CAUTION
The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF . The fuel system pressure MUST BE relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

To check the fuel system pressure proceed as follows:

1. Remove the fuel filler cap and relieve the residual fuel pressure. For specific details, refer to the relieving fuel pressure coverage in this section.
2. Attach a suitable fuel pressure gauge to the fuel injection fuel loop as follows:

Models such as the 1998-00 Accord have a fuel pulsation dampener which must be removed in place of the banjo bolt for testing.

1996-97 Accord with 4-cylinder engines and 1996-00 Prelude: Remove the service/banjo bolt from the end of the fuel rail. Install the fuel pressure gauge using a suitable fitting to temporarily substitute for the banjo bolt or in place of the service bolt that will allow fuel to be supplied to the gauge and the fuel rail.

1996-97 Accord with V6 engines: Remove the banjo bolt from the fuel filter outlet and install the pressure gauge using a suitable fitting to temporarily substitute for the banjo bolt and supply fuel to the gauge and the fuel rail.

1998-00 Accord: Remove the fuel pulsation damper from the end of the fuel rail and install a suitable fuel pressure gauge in its place.

3. Remove and plug the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator located near the end of the fuel rail.
4. Start the engine and note the fuel pressure. With the pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and plugged, the fuel pressure should register as follows:

2.2L engines: 38-46 psi (260-310 kPa)

2.3L engines: 47-54 psi (320-370 kPa)

2.7L engines: 40-47 psi (270-320 kPa)

3.0L engines: 41-48 psi (280-330 kPa)

If the engine won't start, turn on the ignition switch ON, wait two seconds, then turn off the ignition switch OFF. Turn the ignition switch back ON again and read the fuel pressure.

5. If the fuel pressure is higher than specification check for a pinched or restricted fuel return hose or line.

6. If the fuel pressure is lower than the specification check for a damaged fuel pressure regulator, clogged fuel filter, fuel feed line or a leak in the fuel feed line. If the fuel pressure regulator, fuel feed lines, and fuel pump are OK, replace the fuel pump and fuel filter.

The fuel pressure regulator testing procedures are located later in this section.

Once the test is complete, perform the following:

7. Carefully remove the fuel pressure gauge and test fittings.
8. Install the removed fasteners using new sealing washers.
9. Install the fuel filler cap.
10. Start the engine and check for any fuel leaks, and repair as necessary.

You need a certain amount of fuel pressure to start the truck, the fuel need to flow at a certain pressure to maintain a running engine , the injection system is set up to operate at a certain pressure if to much or to low then it runs bad, the pressure needs to be there to flow and spray all cylinder when needed, if the presssure is low then the injector will open and close so fast that not enough fuel enters the cylinder and thus a not start will occur,these trucks are kown for bad pumps, the fuel drains back into tank and then when you go to start the truck it takes two to four times to start, this is due to a anti flow back valve which is part of the fuelpump internally, try this when starting before cranking the engine turn the key on for 5 sec, then off do this three times then start it, if the truck fires up then you have a bad pump. good day.

no reset. Most likely the fuse or relay is the problem. These are usually in the engine compartment relay box. Here are some notes that may help:

A good first check if fuel delivery problems are suspected is to spray some starting fluid into the intake system while someone cranks the engine. If the engine starts or tries to start with starting fluid, it is not getting fuel. In most modern cars, the fuel pump is inside the gas tank and is also usually sold with the fuel gage sending unit--an expensive and laborious R&R job. If the pump is working, you should hear it at least momentarily when the key is turned to the "on" position. If the pump is not working, the cause could be a fuse, a relay, an accident "kill" switch that needs resetting, or the pump itself. You'll want to rule out all of the inexpensive possibilities first. Use your owners manual (you can often find these online if you don't have the original) to locate the applicable fuse, relay, and/or cutoff switch. To check the relay and ignition switch, follow precedures at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6022358-relay_check. You can also check for voltage at the pump connector with a test light.
Assuming your pump works, fuel still needs to get to the engine. A clogged filter will certainly limit fuel flow, but will rarely prevent a car from starting. That said, filter replacement is an inexpensive bit of maintenance. Most likely cause of fuel not getting to the engine when the pump is working is the fuel injection system (not an issue for carbureted engines). Injection systems are beyond the scope of this tip, but there are a couple things you can check. Many anti-theft systems cut off the injectors when activated. If you have such a system, make sure your anti-theft system has not been activated. Also, the injectors require a certain level of fuel pressure. Though your pump may be working, it may not be producing pressure. If possible, have your fuel pressure checked or borrow the appropriate tool to test the pressure. Always check pressure at the fuel rail, as some designs include a separate regulator that is typically in the line in the engine compartment. The injectors may be controlled by an injector module or directly by the engine or powertrain control module/computer. The signals sent to the injectors can be checked using a special tester or oscilloscope. A simple but crude method of checking injector operation is to put a long screwdriver on the injector body and hold the handle to your ear while someone cranks the engine. If the injectors are working, you should hear the solenoid click once every 2 revolutions.

no you will not have fuel pressure untill the engine is running

fuel pressure is not required to start the engine...only to keep it running

when you turn the key on the computer send a signal to turn the fuel pump on for a second and prime the engine...once it starts the fuel pump relay kicks the fuel pump on then you have pressure.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HERE THE FUEL PUMP START AFTER YOU TURN THE KEY ON. FUEL PUNP, FILTER, FULE PUMP RELAY.

How did you determine its not the fuel pump?It could be the fuel filter but I dont think so.Your truck requires a certain amount of fuel pressure to start and a different amount to run properly.You would have to check what your fuel pressure is to say its not the pump.It should be something like 65 psi to start and 55psi to run.Even though you can hear the pump come on when turn the key it might not be putting out enough pressure to start the truck.I realize im a little late with this post but it might helpfull to others.

just for you REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 and 2
WARNING In almost every case, replacing the Mitsubishi electric fuel pump requires removal of the fuel tank. Please refer to the fuel tank removal and installation procedure at the end of this section.

1. Lift or move aside the carpet in the rear cargo area.
2. Remove the oval cover plate from the access hole.
3. Disconnect the fuel pump harness connector at the rear of the fuel tank.
4. Start the engine, allowing it to run until it runs out of fuel. This relieves pressure within the fuel system.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative battery cable.
6. Remove the fuel filler cap.
7. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank into suitable container(s), each with an airtight lid.
8. Carefully, and using two wrenches on the fittings, disconnect the high pressure fuel line and the main fuel line from the pump. Remove the high pressure fuel hose at the body-side main pipe connection, unfasten the pump-side connection. Wrap each joint in a rag before loosening; some pressure may remain within the system.
9. Remove the fuel pump retaining nuts and carefully remove the pump from the tank.

The fuel pump may still contain liquid fuel. Drain it into a suitable container with an airtight lid before performing any tests or inspections.
To install:

1. Carefully install the pump into the tank and install the 6 retaining nuts onto the studs. Tighten the nuts evenly and in a crisscross pattern to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
2. Reinstall the high pressure and supply line to the pump.

WARNING Take great care when connecting the threaded high pressure lines. Start the threads by hand, then, while holding the hose side to keep it from turning, tighten the flare nut to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

1. Connect the pump wiring harness.
2. Connect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition key to ON but do not start the engine. You should hear the pump running. Allow it to run for about 10 seconds to build line pressure, then start the engine.
3. After the engine has run smoothly for a minute or two, shut the ignition off and check the work area for any trace of leakage. Attend to any fuel leaks immediately, remembering that the system has repressurized and must be handled safely.
4. Reinstall the cover on the access hole and replace the carpet in the cargo area.

Fig. 1: Components of the fuel pump and fuel tank Fig. 2: Components of the fuel pump-all models similarTESTING
When diagnosing engine problems, particularly a "no start" condition, the fuel pump function should be checked. Because of the difficulty in reaching the fuel pump connections, Mitsubishi automobiles have a conveniently located test connector under the hood. V6 Monteros have the connector taped to a wiring harness inside the right front kick panel, near the ECM and relays.
This connector bypasses all of the controls in the system (ignition switch, pump relay, etc.) and sends voltage directly to the pump. When power is applied to the pump you should be able to hear it running, although the in-tank pumps require you remove the fuel filler cap and listen at the filler.
To use the test connector, make certain the ignition is OFF. Great damage may be caused if the system is tested with the key on. Locate the test connector in the engine compartment (on later Monteros it is located under the right-hand side of the dashboard)-it is generally on a short lead out of a wiring harness and looks like a plug that isn't connected to anything. Once found, use a jumper wire to connect the test terminal to the positive battery terminal. Listen for the fuel pump; if it runs, you know the pump motor is good. While the pump is running, gently squeeze one of the fuel lines and confirm that the pump is delivering fuel pressure. If it does not run, the pump itself is most likely defective OR the connector to the pump is faulty.
When the pump is removed from the tank, it may be checked by applying battery voltage (+) to the connector and grounding the housing. Only run the pump for one or two seconds during this test; the pump can be damaged by running without liquid.
CAUTION Make certain the pump has been drained of residual fuel and is free of fuel vapors. Connecting and removing the test leads will cause sparks which can ignite any vapor in the area.