20 Most Recent 1994 Mitsubishi Montero Questions & Answers

montero rear door pdf

Use the key method. On-off-on-off-on-off-on you may have to adjust the sequence some.

We have no information on this subject.

Loosen the fuel line at the fuel filter on the engine side of the filter. Turning on the key should make the loose fitting leak.

i would say you probably guessed right and also check the air filter wires rotor bug and cap on the distributor unless its coil pack ign

Check transmission fluid and have the transmission serviced. Could be a clogged filter.

just for you REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 and 2
WARNING In almost every case, replacing the Mitsubishi electric fuel pump requires removal of the fuel tank. Please refer to the fuel tank removal and installation procedure at the end of this section.

1. Lift or move aside the carpet in the rear cargo area.
2. Remove the oval cover plate from the access hole.
3. Disconnect the fuel pump harness connector at the rear of the fuel tank.
4. Start the engine, allowing it to run until it runs out of fuel. This relieves pressure within the fuel system.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative battery cable.
6. Remove the fuel filler cap.
7. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank into suitable container(s), each with an airtight lid.
8. Carefully, and using two wrenches on the fittings, disconnect the high pressure fuel line and the main fuel line from the pump. Remove the high pressure fuel hose at the body-side main pipe connection, unfasten the pump-side connection. Wrap each joint in a rag before loosening; some pressure may remain within the system.
9. Remove the fuel pump retaining nuts and carefully remove the pump from the tank.

The fuel pump may still contain liquid fuel. Drain it into a suitable container with an airtight lid before performing any tests or inspections.
To install:

1. Carefully install the pump into the tank and install the 6 retaining nuts onto the studs. Tighten the nuts evenly and in a crisscross pattern to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
2. Reinstall the high pressure and supply line to the pump.

WARNING Take great care when connecting the threaded high pressure lines. Start the threads by hand, then, while holding the hose side to keep it from turning, tighten the flare nut to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

1. Connect the pump wiring harness.
2. Connect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition key to ON but do not start the engine. You should hear the pump running. Allow it to run for about 10 seconds to build line pressure, then start the engine.
3. After the engine has run smoothly for a minute or two, shut the ignition off and check the work area for any trace of leakage. Attend to any fuel leaks immediately, remembering that the system has repressurized and must be handled safely.
4. Reinstall the cover on the access hole and replace the carpet in the cargo area.

Fig. 1: Components of the fuel pump and fuel tank Fig. 2: Components of the fuel pump-all models similarTESTING
When diagnosing engine problems, particularly a "no start" condition, the fuel pump function should be checked. Because of the difficulty in reaching the fuel pump connections, Mitsubishi automobiles have a conveniently located test connector under the hood. V6 Monteros have the connector taped to a wiring harness inside the right front kick panel, near the ECM and relays.
This connector bypasses all of the controls in the system (ignition switch, pump relay, etc.) and sends voltage directly to the pump. When power is applied to the pump you should be able to hear it running, although the in-tank pumps require you remove the fuel filler cap and listen at the filler.
To use the test connector, make certain the ignition is OFF. Great damage may be caused if the system is tested with the key on. Locate the test connector in the engine compartment (on later Monteros it is located under the right-hand side of the dashboard)-it is generally on a short lead out of a wiring harness and looks like a plug that isn't connected to anything. Once found, use a jumper wire to connect the test terminal to the positive battery terminal. Listen for the fuel pump; if it runs, you know the pump motor is good. While the pump is running, gently squeeze one of the fuel lines and confirm that the pump is delivering fuel pressure. If it does not run, the pump itself is most likely defective OR the connector to the pump is faulty.
When the pump is removed from the tank, it may be checked by applying battery voltage (+) to the connector and grounding the housing. Only run the pump for one or two seconds during this test; the pump can be damaged by running without liquid.
CAUTION Make certain the pump has been drained of residual fuel and is free of fuel vapors. Connecting and removing the test leads will cause sparks which can ignite any vapor in the area.

Sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator died. Going to have to replace them

Passenger side dash, below the a/c heater vent and to the right of the glove box door

run the fault codes as a speed limiter sensor may be cutting in to protect the engine

Go back to where you had the brake job done and tell them they did not bleed the brakes correctly and it is causing you problems. Make them road test the car before any work is done. Once they bleed the system it more than likely will work normally

Deterime if the key rotates to the left and right first-if it does not than it's a tumbler issue-however if it does rotate-its a linkage in the panel either diconnected or blocked-not easy but from inside see if anything is around or on the locking bar-

It sounds like your alternator is bad. East way to confirm, take it to local auto parts store (IE: Autozone, Advance, etc) and have them do a FREE charging system test. Couple of thoughts; you have two new batteries and your poor alternator has to work twice as hard. After you put new batteries in, you've been running on straight battery power. Alternator normally runs all your electronics and recharges battery(s) but if Alt has gone "south" then you're on straight battery power.