Tried to repair engine knock by replacing con rod bearings pistons and rings. Engine still knocks but not as loud. Can I roll in new mains with engine in place?
SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking
These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.
Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.
SOURCE: torque specs for toyota tercel
Hello vienotkelly: The correct Main bolt torque is 42 foot pounds. The connecting rods torque to 29 foot pounds. The torque sequence for the head bolts and the correct way to tighten the bolts are attached to this reply. Thak You for using FixYa. Roger
SOURCE: torque specs for 1998 tercel 1.5L
Main Bearing Cap Torque-42 Ft. Lbs.
Head Bolts Step 1-33 Ft. Lbs. Step 2- Additional 90 Degrees
Rod Bearing Nuts-29 Ft. Lbs.
Hope this helps
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I plan to fabricate a main bearing roll out tool to try to change mains
I pulled the pan and found no 4 con Ron brg wiped. Please advise is it possible to repair journal in place or should I pull engine?
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