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Anonymous Posted on Jan 17, 2018

Ignition timing 1996 dodge 3.9 v6

My book shows positioning of distributor for v8 not v6. with No reference to v6. I've just completetely rebuilt this engine. Basic timing at Cam and Crank is correct. (I've checked 2-3 times). Getting fire at plugs. Sounds like the engine is just spinning over. Can it be 180 degree's out?

1 Answer

Peter Schmidt

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 342 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2018
Peter Schmidt
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Joined: Oct 20, 2017
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I found this web reference for a 2 year older Dodge that might help:
On 98 dodge dakota with 3 9 V6 how do set up the distributor
This web reference indicates a VAST difference between the V6 and V8...so you could be on the right track with your 180 degree comment:
"The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and the V6 mark is 147° after TDC"
Good luck on your troubleshooting ... and kudos to take on an engine rebuild!

5 Related Answers

lesabre1972

Mike Watson

  • 474 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2008

SOURCE: 4AGE DIZZY TIMING

With the timming marks lined up make sure that cylinder 1 is at top dead center on the compresion stroke, then as you lower the distributer back in make sure that the rotor is pointing to the number 1 plug wire post on the distributor cap,mark the distributor where the #1 post is since you can't install it with the cap on.

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Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 17, 2008

SOURCE: need firing order on a 1996 dodge ram v8

The order should be stamped on your intake manifold right under the air cleaner.
My '97 1500, 5.2, 318 firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Hope this helps

Bill Hackett

  • 383 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 09, 2009

SOURCE: have kia sportage 2.0l four cam timing marks,!Whitch one?

gregorykilke: your engine has several references if you are describing the same vehicle. The 1996 KIA Sportage has a SOHC engine and was the last year to use one before they went exclusively to twin cams.
The timing marks are as follows: On the crank, position the crank to where the woodruff key is in the 12:00 position. There is a metal plate with a notch behind the gear. If you look closely at the engine behind the plate, thought the notch, there should be a small "ARROW" which should fall within the notch. If lined up properly, the #1 piston will be at TDC.
On the top end of the engine, your cam gear is numbered 1-2-and 3. Position the cam to where the #2 on the gear is at 12:00. On the back side of that gear, should be a mark which should be running in line with the # 2 and it is the "Match mark which you line up with the small arrow or "V" on the cover.
A word of caution! This is an interference fit engine which means it BENDS VALVES IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE TIMING CORRECT AND YOU HAVE BEEN SPINNING THE ENGINE OVER!
IF>>>you are lucky, you might not have had the timing too far off and the valves may be fine, but exercise EXTREME caution when setting up the valve timing.
One way to avoid bending valves, is to make sure none of the pistons are at or close to TDC. This way, you can roll the cam in position and then watch which direction is going to bring the #1 piston up and whether it is rotating the engine clockwise or counter clockwise to bring the piston to that position , it won't harm anything. IF you feel any resistance at all STOP!!!!!! because the timing is off and you will bend valves.
Make sure the tensioner pulley bearing turns smoothly and makes no noise. DO NOT WASH IT WITH SOLVENT OR SPRAY IT OFF WITH CARB SPRAY! The solvent will get inside the sealed bearing area and contaminate the lubricant causing a premature bearing failure and a potential disaster for your engine!
Should you need further assistance on this subject, just ask and I'll do what I can to help. The belt tension is also CRITICAL!
Take care guy, Give the folks at FIXYA some input if I am doing you any good or if I have helped anyone else, write in and let them know. They want feed back. GOOD LUCK!

Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 07, 2009

SOURCE: 1991 Firebird 305 V8 TBI won't start

ok, here goes, i also have a 305 tbi.. i know it sucks to reach things on them, but you have to know how... i have headers on my bird and that gives them about 2 mm of clearance for the bolts, and i recently replaced the heads and alot of gaskets and such..
The front spark plugs you should be able to reach from the top, but for the back plugs and wires you may have to jack the car up and come from the bottom.. (the only way) .. now on to the timing.. remove the distributor cap and you will notice the rotor bug.. next you will need to remove the number one spark plug..(closest to front driver side of car) now put your finger over the spark plug hole while you have someone crank the engine.. you will be able to feel compression.. when the hole pushes your finger back with air, notice which direction your rotor bug is facing and make a mark.... this approximation will be where to connect the number one plug wire on the distributor.. put the distributor cap back on hook up the number 1 plug wire to the plug and continue clockwise with the firing order... firing order is written on intake just below front of air filter it shoul be like 18436572 or somethin like that.. after you check, your plugs and wires and ensure good connection. you can take a 7/16 end wrench and loosen your distributor.. have someon cranking and holding gas while you slightly turn the distributor back and forth until it sounds good.. be careful don't turn very far it can cause the engine to back fire and without the air filter on the gas will ignite and cause a small fire... (This could be your only problem because if the distributor is moved at all the firing process will become all screwed up)

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 28, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8 Check Engine Codes

1st try and search for a vaccum leak, due to the fact that these vehicles have had some bad problems with the length of wires and hoses, if there is a vaccum leak in the vehicle somewhere that will trigger other malfunctions in your vehicle. Using a can of starting fluid or Brake cleaner spray lightly spray around our engine til you hear the motor rev-up and the spot you have sprayed will determine where your vaccum leak will be. And then check under your distributor cap for any moisture be sure to take a rag and wipe and residue off. Also check the firing order on your distributor.

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Where is the ignition control module on a 2001 dodge dakota

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1991 dakota 3.9 timing is off. Rebuilt engine and set to the book. Now, I'm told t set 10 degrees before TDC. I have never had to do this. What is the correct alignment for the gears and dist.

10 seconds with Google is your friend

https://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1zx3f-engine-timing-info-1991-dodge-dakota-3-9l.html


http://www.fixya.com/cars/t23305851-1991_dodge_dakota_3_9l_timing_question


You're probably looking for the distributor index procedure, which closely resembles a timing adjustment when compared to the older style ignition systems. While your ignition timing remains unchanged when turning the distributor, the cam-crank relationship does indeed change and has to be set within a narrow window of sync for the engine to run properly.

This is how I do it...

The 93 models had no cheater methods, no scan tool apps to make life easier, so they had to be set manually. You'll need tools to rotate the engine by hand, remove the distributor cap (Philipps), loosen the distributor hold down and then (maybe) some chalk to mark the harmonic balancer if the marks are difficult to find. The distributor uses a 13mm hex bolt as its hold down fastener and is a bit tough to get to without a special distributor wrench, but you'll probably figure it out... =/

Start by removing the distributor cap. Take the left (driver's) side plug wires out of the cap completely to allow you to roll the cap off to the side, leaving three wires and the coil wire intact for future reference. You'll be removing #1, 3 and 5 plug wires and the firing order is (clockwise) 1-6-5-4-3-2.

Examine the rotor for excessive forward and back end play at the distributor shaft. If you can rotate the shaft enough that the swept space of the rotor tip exceeds 1/4", you've almost certainly got some damage to the distributor drive gear and block bushing, something that was uber-common on the 92 and 93 3.9 engines. Chrysler technical service bulletin 18-08-03 describes the procedure for removing and replacing the drive gear and block bushing as well as a rough adjustment process afterward. Let me know if you find enough shaft slop to merit an immediate repair.

Head to the harmonic balancer now and locate the V6 mark, which will appear to have been scribed with a scalpel... very light and hard to read. There will also be a V8 mark just for confusion-sake and looks very similar to the one you really need.

The V8 mark is located very close to one of the major scribe cuts in the balancer and is near TDC for cylinder #1. The V6 mark is flying off in space a bit, something like 132 degrees ATC. Mark it once found.

Rotate the engine until the distributor rotor tip is nearing the #1 spark plug location on the cap, then align your V6 mark with the stationary TDC mark on the timing cover (the old ignition timing mark).

It's important that you not back up if the mark is passed, as this would transfer some of the inevitable timing chain slack to the drive side of the camshaft. If another shot at adjustment is needed, back the engine up 20 degrees or more and then repeat the clockwise turning adjustment, stopping right at TDC.

With the distributor lightly loosened now, rotate it clockwise as far as the hold-down will allow. You can put the cap and wires back on at this point.

Turn the key on, being careful to not engage the starter.

Rotate the distributor counter-clockwise now until you hear a *click* from the relay bank in the underhood fuse block. If you're working from the driver's side of the truck, this will be easier to hear as it's right below you at this point.

The *click* happens as the cam sensor changes voltage states and creates a signal recognized by the PCM (engine controller). You could also backprobe the tan/ yellow wire on the engine harness side connector to monitor voltage if you're not comfortable with the *click* method. You'll be watching for a voltage transition from 0-5v or 5 to 0v... it's the transition point that we're counting as a cam signal. With the crank positioned at the V6 mark and the cam signal tripped... this is your sync adjustment. Lock it down.

If you'd like to repeat this part of the process, roll the distributor far to the CW position and start over. This keeps the rotational relationship between your distributor body and trigger wheel the same as if the engine was turning on its own.

You get but one *click* per key cycle, so the key has to be turned off and back on at each adjustment attempt.

If your distributor rotor looseness is excessive, repairs should be done, but you can temporarily get things running OK again by performing this procedure to compensate for wear and tear and the inevitable retarding of cam signal.
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The VCM then utilizes this 3x (V6) or 4x (V8) signal in order to provide the correct spark to the engine by way of the single coil driver module. The single coil driver module is basically an electronic switch that when commanded by the VCM, causes the primary coil voltage to breakdown, energizing the secondary coil and providing a spark via the coil wire to the distributor cap. The distributor consists of the following components:
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?€¢
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By 'just spinning over', do you mean there's no compression? Have you done a compression check? If you have no compression, then your basic crank/cam timing cannot be correct, or your valves are not closing.
If your ignition timing is 180 degrees out, you'll have normal compression, but since the spark is coming at the wrong time, the engine will not run. You'd have to remove the distributor and reinsert it with the rotor at 180 degrees from where you took it out.
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I do not know if you have the 2.0L SOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder, or the 2.4L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder or the 2.5L SOHC V6; however I have included all three below...

For the 2.0L SOHC AND 2.4L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder:
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Ignition Coil:
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Firing Order:
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|...1....3....5...|
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To avoid confusion, remove and tag the wires one at a time for replacement.


f160dd3.jpg


Fig. 1: 2.5L 4-cylinder Engine. Engine Firing Order: 1-3-4-2. Distributor Rotation: Clockwise


a1a8242.jpg

Fig. 2: 3.9L V6 Engine. Engine Firing Order: 1-6-5-4-3-2. Distributor Rotation: Clockwise


dc6748e.jpg

Fig. 3: 5.2L and 5.9L V8 Engines. Engine Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Distributor Rotation: Clockwise


832c92e.jpg

Fig. 4: 8.0L V10 Engine. Engine Firing Order: 1-10-9-4-3-6-5-8-7-2. Distributorless Ignition


Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.
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Not finding what you are looking for?

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