Need to purchase new wheels for the wagon and brackets to attach to wagon

If you are replacing the CV joint itself, you have spent too much money for one, and are in for more work than needed. I own a 1993 Subaru Loyale Wagon, front wheel drive (converting to four). I had to replace both sides when I got it, and it is so much easier to replace the drive axles rather than the CV joint. I suggest returning the part, and purchasing the entire drive axle. The drive axle will require the same steps : Remove brake system, knock out pin in drive axle near tranny, and pull the drive axle out. Insert new drive axle, replace pin (if new one is not provide, this is okay.) and re-assemble brake system.
If this is not feasable for you to do, and replacing the CV joint is your only option, then go to the the auto parts store and ask for a CHILTONS manual for your car.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
carsandcomps,
Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

NISSAN STANZA WAGON - Manual Transmission

Q. Where is the starter on a 1986 nissan stanza station wagon and how do you get to it ?

Due to limited access to the starter, it is recommended that the transaxle be removed when servicing the starter.

REMOVAL:

1. Cold vehicle.

Remove 2 mounting bracket bolts, 10 & 12 mm (Figure 1).

Remove top starter motor bolt 14 mm with universal & long extensions.

Raise vehicle on hoist.

Remove front splash pans 10 mm.

Automatic transmission: Drain 2 qts out.

Remove rt-ft wheel 21 mm., & tie rod (Figure 3), axle cap, cotter pin, adj-nut & rubber washer.

Remove ball joint nuts 17 mm., left lower control arm 19mm. & swaybar bracket 14 mm. (Fig 2).

Remove axle nut 36mm (Figure 4), the front tube, catalytic converter heat insulators 10mm, ctr ex-tube 17 mm., and front tube from exhaust system (Figure 5).

Remove long bolt from ft engine mount (next to radiator), 17mm socket (Figure 6, Item A).

Remove tension rod mount 14 mm. Has adj-bracket with rubber insulators (Fig 6, Items B, C).

Remove right side drive shaft bolts that hold shaft to bracket mounted on engine (Fig7) 12mm.

Remove rt-driveshaft.

CAUTION: Transaxle side seals are cut by spline teeth.

Install hoist type transmission jack and wooden block under the transmission/engine. Be certain the transmission is safely balanced on the hoist.

Remove 5 engine crossmember mounts (3 bolts, 2 nuts) 14mm.

Remove nut that attaches crossmember to engine mount.

Loosen stabilizer bar mounts to allow adequate clearance for crossmember to be removed.

Remove following brackets to allow starter assembly to pass through bottom:

tubular support bracket - engine to transaxle

angled support bracket - driveshaft bracket to engine mount

manifold collector stay - (bottom bolts)

Loosen top bolts, remove bracket above driveshaft-holding bracket 14mm.

NOTE: This bracket is slotted to allow it to slide out without completely removing the bolts.

Remove bottom starter motor mounting bolt.

Separate starter assembly from bellhousing, DC all cables/connectors, remove starter motor.

When installing starter, connect cable, install/torque starter bolts.

You have to remove the bumper first...

Tools Required:
- socket wrench/socket kit
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- flathead screwdriver
- flathead stubby
- torx driver set

Optional Tools:
- car jack
- monkey (to hold your work lights)

Instructions:
- jack up car (optional)
- At least jack up one side of the car

1) Remove 4 screws on top of bumper ( under hood, above kidney grills)
2) Remove 2 screws in each wheel-well, and clip bumper trim away from wheel-well trim
3)Push wheel-well trim away so you can unfasten 2 screws inside that hold top part of bumper to the car on each side
4) Release about 7 Screws on bottom of bumper from underneath
5) Remove bumper by uncliping each side and then pulling bumper forward

Foglights will stay in place. simply disconnect the cable.

After you remove the bumper and unplug the Foglights
1) To remove the lights you also need to remove the bracket that hold the lights
2) Remove the blots on the bracket and top of headlight.

Installation is in the reverse of removal...

1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Mark (index) the relationship of the wheel to the hub.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Install 2 wheel nuts in order to retain the rotor.
5. In order to push the piston into the caliper bore and provide clearance between the pads and the rotor, complete the following steps:

5.1. Install a large C-clamp (2) over the top of the caliper housing (1) and against the back of the outboard pad. 5.2. Slowly tighten the C-clamp (2) until the piston pushes into the caliper bore enough to slide the caliper (1) off the rotor.

1. Remove the caliper bolts (2).

1. Remove the caliper (2) from the rotor and caliper bracket. Suspend the caliper from the strut using a wire hook (1).

1. Remove the pads (2, 3) from the caliper bracket (5).
2. Remove the 2 retainers (1) from the caliper bracket (5).

1. Inspect the following parts for cuts, tears, or deterioration. Replace any damaged parts:

• The bolt boots (1)
• The piston boot (7)

1. Inspect the caliper bolts for corrosion or damage. Use new parts, including bushings, when installing the caliper if any corrosion is found. Do not attempt to polish away corrosion.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: Before installing new brake pads, wipe the outside surface of the caliper boot clean. Use denatured alcohol.

1. Bottom the piston into the caliper bore. If installing new brake pads, use a C-clamp (2) in order to clamp the piston at the same time. Use a metal plate or wooden block across the face of the piston. Do not damage the piston or the caliper boot.

IMPORTANT: Lift the inner-edge caliper boot next to the piston. Press out any trapped air. The boot must lay flat below the level of the piston face.

1. Install the 2 retainers to the caliper bracket.

IMPORTANT: The wear sensor is on the inside pad. The sensor is positioned at the leading edge (upward) of the pad during forward wheel rotation.

1. Install the pads (5) to the caliper bracket (3).

NOTICE: Use care to avoid damaging pin boot when rotating caliper.

1. Install the caliper (2) to the bracket (3).

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

1. Install the caliper bolts (1).

• Tighten the caliper bolts to 31 Nm (23 ft. lbs.) .

1. Remove the wheel nuts securing the rotor to the hub.
2. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Align the index marks on the wheel and the hub.
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean brake fluid.
5. Apply approximately 778 N (175 lbs.) of force to the brake pedal 3 times in order to seat the pads.
6. Burnish the pads and the rotors.

How to Replace a Brake Caliper
(DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 2.1 hours)

Parts:
1. Brake Caliper

Tools:
1. Combination Wrench Set
2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
3. Floor Jack
4. Jack Stand Set
5. C-Clamp
6. Mallet Hammer
7. Flat Head Screwdriver
8. Socket Set
9. Tire Iron
10. 1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench


Supplies:
1. Brake Cleaner


Steps:
Step 1 Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.

Step 2 Remove the front wheel hub caps if applicable. Using a tire iron, break loose the front wheel lug nuts but do not remove.
o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.

Step 3 Using a floor jack, lift up the front of your vehicle.
o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.

Step 4 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.

Step 5 Remove the front wheel lug nuts. Remove the front wheels and set them aside.

Step 6 Inspect the brake caliper for any signs of binding. Look for rust and uneven brake pad wear.

Step 7 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (sliding bolts).

Step 8 Support the caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines.
o Tip: Use a bungee cord to secure the brake caliper out of the way and hang it on the suspension spring.

Step 9 Clean the sliding bolts and lubricate them.

Step 10 Install the new caliper over the brake pads and rotor. Attach the caliper to the mounting bracket with the sliding bolts. Tighten the caliper sliding bolts to manufacturer’s specifications.

Step 11 Disconnect the brake line from the old caliper. Attach the brake line to the new caliper using new copper washers. Tighten the banjo bolt.

Step 12 Repeat for the other side. Bleed the front brakes.

Step 13 Reinstall the front wheels. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer specifications in a star pattern.

Step 14 Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Step 15 Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Road test the vehicle to verify brake caliper repair.


Hope this help.

How to Replace a Brake Caliper
( DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 2.1 hours )

Parts:
1. Brake Caliper



Tools:
1. Combination Wrench Set
2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
3. Floor Jack
4. Jack Stand Set
5. C-Clamp
6. Mallet Hammer
7. Flat Head Screwdriver
8. Socket Set
9. Tire Iron
10. 1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench

Supplies:
1. Brake Cleaner

Steps:
Step 1 Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.

Step 2 Remove the front wheel hub caps if applicable. Using a tire iron, break loose the front wheel lug nuts but do not remove.
o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.

Step 3 Using a floor jack, lift up the front of your vehicle.
o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.

Step 4 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.

Step 5 Remove the front wheel lug nuts. Remove the front wheels and set them aside.

Step 6 Inspect the brake caliper for any signs of binding. Look for rust and uneven brake pad wear.

Step 7 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (sliding bolts).

Step 8 Support the caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines.
o Tip: Use a bungee cord to secure the brake caliper out of the way and hang it on the suspension spring.

Step 9 Clean the sliding bolts and lubricate them.


Step 10 Install the new caliper over the brake pads and rotor. Attach the caliper to the mounting bracket with the sliding bolts. Tighten the caliper sliding bolts to manufacturer’s specifications.

Step 11 Disconnect the brake line from the old caliper. Attach the brake line to the new caliper using new copper washers. Tighten the banjo bolt.

Step 12 Repeat for the other side. Bleed the front brakes.

Step 13 Reinstall the front wheels. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer specifications in a star pattern.

Step 14 Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Step 15 Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Road test the vehicle to verify brake caliper repair.


Hope this help (remember rated and comment this).

jack up car, remove wheel. take 2 bolts out holding caliper to caliper bracket. take old pads off, compress the piston until its flush with the caliper with a c-clamp. new pads on, grease the caliper bolts and bolt it back on. put wheel on, lower jack.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Unfasten the retainer(s), then remove the hydraulic flex hose bracket from the strut bracket. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip is also attached to the strut assembly bracket.

1. Support the rear knuckle, suspension and brake components before removing the clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts. Do NOT allow the weight of the knuckle and related components hang without support when the strut is removed.


WARNING The knuckle-to-strut attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the knuckle.

1. Hold the bolt with a wrench, then unfasten the 2 clevis bracket nuts attaching the strut to the knuckle.

Fig. Fig. 2: Location of the knuckle-to-clevis bracket bolts

1. Carefully lower the vehicle, then open the trunk. Access to the rear upper strut mount-to-strut tower attaching bolts is through the trunk of the car.
2. If necessary, remove the carpet from the top of the strut tower. Then, remove the rubber dust shield from the top of the strut tower for easier access to the upper strut nuts.

1. Loosen, but do not remove the 4 upper strut mounting nuts. Then, while supporting the strut assembly, fully remove the 4 strut mount attaching nuts.

1. Remove the strut assembly from the knuckle by sliding the knuckle out of the clevis bracket on the strut, then remove it from the vehicle.

Carefully pull the strut assembly out of the vehicle
To install:

1. Position the strut back into the vehicle with the 4 studs on the strut mount assembly through holes in the strut tower of the vehicle. Install the 4 strut mount-to-body attaching nuts onto the mount studs. Tighten the nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
2. Install the dust shield into the opening on top of the strut tower. Install the carpeting back on top of the rear strut tower.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Install the knuckle into the clevis bracket on the strut assembly. Install the 2 clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts and nuts. Hold the bolts with a wrench while tightening the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
5. Install the brake hose bracket to the strut bracket and secure with the retaining bolts. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip is also attached to the strut bracket.
6. Install the wheel and tire assembly on the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts evenly, in sequence, to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
8. Have the toe checked and adjusted as necessary.

I would try looking on ebay. You can purchase inexpensive parts on there. Mike. Rate 100% please.

Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.