20 Most Recent 1997 Lincoln Continental - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Not sure about all your info. If the motor shorted, it would not turn. So something else shorted. I presume you had a friend wire the motor to a variable knob and that is why he wants you to keep it on all the way. Good idea since turning it down will cause it to heat up and possible burn out. Just find an off on (toggle) switch and put that in place of the knob thing.

OK I HAVE THE ANSWER. The fuel pump needs to have an adequate gas supply to start up. When low, or on a steep angle, and especially when BOTH conditions occur, the pump is no longer submerged. A check valve is intended to retain gas at the pump in that case, but over time it leaks. So actually, there are THREE things that must happen -- park on a hill, be low on gas, and leave it there for a long time. The fuel drains out, and no worky. The check valve cannot be easily replaced by itself - it comes wiht the pump as an assembly. Two fixes -- if the check valve is old enough to leak, the pump is old too. Replace them both. Or, just avoid the problem -- the pump could have years left. I had my pump checked, and it does appear to have years left, so now that I know the problem, it hasn't happened again. THIS IS THE CORRECT ANSWER.

Here's what I came up with. http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1997&m=Lincoln&mo=Continental&initSearch=1&keyword=cruise%20control%20switch#

try a junk yard..

Too many steps to describe here. If you are not a suitable DIY mechanic, get it to someone who is. Why did you suspect the pump? Is it leaking, in which case you are right to replace it. What is the original problem?

12mm dia x 1.50 thread pitch Pretty much a standard size for most vehicles I found that on RockAuto.Com You need to make better use of the internet & Google I knew the answer,just wanted to be sure for you

Probably need to rebuild a worn out transmission

maybe coil pack/

You only need to ask your question once.

Directly adjacent to the receiver/dryer near the air handler, closest to the firewall.

Check the hose to it The Tank maybe cracked & have to be replaced

door jam? which door. what dont work right. post symtoms. the fuse are covered 100 % in the FSM and at alldata.com FSM means the Lincoln published, factory service manual. buy one. get one used off ebay easy."search there"

If you have the owner's manual it will tell you. If you don't and the fuse is blown, use a test light. Connect light to a good ground, turn the key to run and check to see if both tabs at the top of the fuse light the test light. Any that only light from 1 tab are blown. You can also pull 1 fuse at a time to see if it is blown, remember to put it back in before pulling the next one.

I replaced the blend door actuator (BDA)a couple of years ago. It is a challenging task, but if you are young with good eyesight, not too large, and patient, you can do it WITHOUT the enormous hassle of removing the console, which is a two man job. You need good illumination, perhaps a small mirror, possibly a camera to take some closeups of exactly how the BDA is attached, and a flexible shaft nut driver. Not too bad of a job, IF you study and plan the task with some care. I would never recommend removing the console. That is just asking for trouble and frustration, and your car will be out of commission until the console is PROPERLY connected. Good luck.

It is usually in one of the cylinder heads or somewhere near the thermostat housing. Look for a 1 or 2 wire connector with a brass nut below it.

Does your heater blow out hot air? If you get plenty of heat even at idle (after the engine is warm) then you probably have a temperature sensor issue. If you don't get plenty of heat you either have low coolant or a thermostat issue. Check the level of your coolant when the engine is cold, it should be at the cold fill level that is marked on the resovoir. If it at the correct level, check for flow in the rad if it has a cap. DON'T OPEN IT WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!!!! Open if before you start the engine. Watch for the coolant moving through the rad, also (with the cap on and engine hot) both rad hoses, one should be a little cooler than the other. If they are both cool you have restriction in the cooling system. Hopes this helps, I am a former Ford master technician. If you need more help put a new question in Help me, Billy along with an email and I'll contact you with help.

Hi ... Friend tracked a similar problem to wiring within, in his case, the front passenger door. Bumps, temp fluxes, just about anything might randomly cause an intermittent short in the wiring that led to the door- open, plunger switch ... which, ideally, makes interior lights go on when doors open and off when doors are securely closed. He took off the interior door panel (suspecting the most used driver & passenger doors as the problem's source) and traced the bundle of wires that eventually fed the door, plunger switch. Can't recall if something was loose or missing wire insulation that just needed electrical taping. I remember thinking that the door panel removal, w/o breaking the panel "clips," to assure they're intact for panel RE-attachment, might be a trickier pain for mangy of us! Have your flashlight, ultra thin screw drivers & needle nose pliers handy as most clips are plastic ... & unpredictably unforgiving! ;-) They're vaguely like the butterfly/toggles used to anchor hooks, etc. on to drywall. Just a solid piece of (usually) plastic, so no spring/hinged part. Imagine a capital "T" inside of & over a capital "V" ... the top of the "T" fits a slot in the door panel & the V part pushed through a corresponding hole in the metal comprising the car door. Hope this fix applies to & works for your prob, too! Cheers! ;-) Jim in Pittsburgh

Manufacturer specification for engine oil is 5W30.