20 Most Recent 1989 Lincoln Town Car - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Under the hood you will see battery cable running to a terminal block. This is your starter solenoid. Tap on it lightly. If what you are saying is after the car is running the starter keeps running. You will need to replace it.
If you are saying the motor is running with the key on there is wires running to the bottom of the distributor.
Look for a round plug. unplug it. You have a rod that runs from the key switch. To a switch at the column. It may be bad.

It is riveted on isn't it. You have to drill the rivets. The kit you are talking about will work on you vehicle. It is three discs that go in the head of the motor.

I suggest you have a compression test run on the cylinders could be a bad valve.

Hi:
The most likely cause of this is a leaking head gasket or intake gasket. Depending on how much cash you want to put into this car, the best plan of repair is to replace both head gaskets, and when you do this, the intake gaskets get changed as well. You can have the heads cleaned and checked while they are off the car.

The part in the pan was put in at the factory, it is put in the fill tube to keep dirt out until the dipstick is installed, it is not needed just shows the pan has not been off since the car was new.

Either low on oil, check oil, or you may have a worn out oil pump. in which case you have to drop the pan and replace the oil pump. Check the oil level first.

It is low? You have tried changing the oil and
the oil pressure sending unit

Check the wiring, the fuse, and the relays. Relays can be tested with an ohmmeter. I would check these out before replacing the switch. The wiring of the switch can be tested with a voltmeter to see if there is constant voltage from the switch to the lights.

if you replaced your plugs and wires 3000 miles back-Check your coil (s) and change your fuel filter

A dirty fuel filter will cause your car to buck too!

if you sqirt a little gas or starting fluid in tthe air intake and it starts for a few seconds then the igjition is probably ok since it was stored so long you could have lots of water int the gas tank or bad gas... you could have a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump . you can have a pressure/volume test done on the fuel pump.. that will also test the fuse and fuel filter .. wow only 54k miles ..

Has spark a the plugs? Do you know if you have injection pulse to the injectors?

Unhook the battery and change one wire at a time

where is the fuel pump shut off switch

the fuel line runs along the drivers side of your car locate them comeing out of the gas tank and follow them to the front

Go to Autozone or Oreillys for a free scan of both the computer and the alternator. It sounds like a Regulator is bad. There reason it works well the first 10 minutes is that the battery is recharging and the Alternator is steadily charging via the Regulator. Then when the battery is charged the Regulator is tapering the charge and providing just the amount of energy your car needs.

This provides an off-on cycle which is the flicker you notice. It is not normal to show up and should be seamless. You may have the type of Alternator with a built-in Regulator and will have to open the Alternator or replace it to change the Regulator. There may also be a Headlight relay they mentioned, but if you notice the flickering in the overhead Dome light with the engine running at different speeds it is more likely the Regulator.

Sounds like it may be running rich. Replace your upstream oxygen sensor if its been over 6 months to a year.

Check your fuel pressure regulator and make sure it isn't wet, which means the seal may be leaking. Also, check your fuel line hose and fuel return hose for leaks going into the fuel rail.

I would also check the fuel injectors for any leaks.

Sometimes, the EGR, exhaust gas recirculation valve and tube may get clogged with carbon, if all else fails I would check and make sure it is not clogged.
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Circuit Protection All vehicles are equipped with a fuse panel located on the left side of the lower instrument panel.

It is here where you will find the horn fuse....not the in the engine compartment fuse box.

Removal & Installation

1. Disable the air suspension, if equipped.
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable and relieve the fuel system pressure.
   
3. Siphon or pump as much fuel as possible out through the fuel filler pipe.
   

NOTE Fuel injected vehicles have reservoirs inside the fuel tank to maintain fuel near the fuel pickup during cornering and under low fuel operating conditions. These reservoirs could block siphon tubes or hoses from reaching the bottom of the fuel tank. Repeated attempts using different hose orientations can overcome this obstacle.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. If equipped with a metal retainer that fastens the filler pipe to the fuel tank, remove the screw attaching the retainer to the fuel tank flange.
   
3. Detach the fuel lines and the electrical connector to the fuel tank sending unit. On some vehicles, these are inaccessible on top of the tank. In these cases they must be disconnected with the tank partially removed.
   
4. Place a safety support under the fuel tank and remove the bolts or nuts from the fuel tank straps. Allow the straps to swing out of the way.
   
5. Partially remove the tank and detach the fuel lines and electrical connector from the sending unit, if not detached previously.
   
6. Remove the tank from the vehicle.
   

To install:

1. Raise the fuel tank into position in the vehicle. Connect the fuel lines and sending unit electrical connector if it is necessary to connect them before the tank is in the final installed position.
   
2. Lubricate the fuel filler pipe with water base tire mounting lubricant and install the tank onto the filler pipe, then bring the tank into final position. Be careful not to deform the tank.
   
3. Bring the fuel tank straps around the tank and start the retaining nut or bolt. Align the tank with the straps. If equipped, make sure the fuel tank shields are installed with the straps and are positioned correctly on the tank.
   
4. Check the hoses and wiring mounted on the tank top to make sure they are correctly routed and will not be pinched between the tank and body.
   
5. Tighten the fuel tank strap retaining nuts or bolts to 20–30 ft. lbs. (28–40 Nm).
   
6. If not already connected, connect the fuel hoses and lines which were detached. Make sure the fuel supply, fuel return, if present, and vapor vent connections are made correctly. If not already connected, connect the sending unit electrical connector.
   
7. Lower the vehicle.
   
8. Replace the fuel that was drained from the tank.
   
9. Check all connections for leaks.
   

check your TPS sensor
throttle position sensor

those wires are bolted on with nut's!! just take battery cable lose and slide the rubber insulaters back on the wires and remove the nuts