20 Most Recent 1989 Lincoln Town Car - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi the problem is more likely to be a runner problem so try doing this then let me know what happens, by the way your problem is only a $2 from our end so thats all the expers gets paid if they solve your problem.

get someone to help you and get them to place their hands either side of the window so their hands are pushing against each other then when you press the button to operate the window get them to either push or pull the window up or down depends on which way your pressing the switch then if it does move with help then the chances are the motor and regulator are both ok.

this then points to the runners they could be loose so check the screws that hold the runner to the cars door and also get some decent spray lube and give all the moving parts and runners a good spray with this and then using some one to help you repeat the above process then work the window up and down a few times and it should get easier

now if the window dont move and all you hear is the clicking noise then the clicking noise suggest the regulator is working as you can here it click when you press the button so it then points to the motor being at fault.

let me know what you find out or how you get on

It can be complicated: 5.0L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cable. Drain the crankcase and the cooling system into suitable containers.
2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
3. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. NOTE: If your vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, refer to Section 1 for information regarding the implications of servicing your A/C system yourself. Only an MVAC-trained, EPA-certified, automotive technician should service the A/C system or its components. CAUTION
   Never open, service, or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. In addition, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
   
4. Mark the position of the hood on the hinges and remove the hood. Disconnect the battery ground cables from the cylinder block.
5. Remove the air intake duct and the air cleaner.
6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing and the lower hose from the water pump. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the radiator.
7. Remove the bolts attaching the radiator fan shroud to the radiator. Remove the radiator. Remove the fan, belt pulley, and shroud.
8. Remove the alternator bolts and position the alternator aside.
9. Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit wire from the sending unit. Disconnect the fuel lines; refer to Section 5.
10. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body. Disconnect the throttle valve rod/cable. Disconnect the cruise control cable, if equipped.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line from the intake manifold, if equipped. Disconnect the transmission filler tube bracket from the cylinder block.
12. Disconnect the air conditioning lines and electrical connectors at the compressor; refer to Section 6. Plug the lines and the compressor fittings to prevent the entrance of dirt and moisture.
13. Disconnect the power steering pump bracket from the cylinder head. Remove the drive belt. Position the power steering pump aside in a position that will prevent the fluid from leaking.
14. Disconnect the power brake vacuum line from the intake manifold.
15. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater tubes. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coolant temperature-sending unit.
16. Remove the transmission-to-engine upper bolts.
17. Disconnect the wiring harness at the two 10-pin connectors.
18. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Disconnect the starter cable from the starter and remove the starter.
19. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipes from the exhaust manifolds. Disconnect the engine mounts from the chassis. Disconnect the downstream thermactor tubing and check valve from the right exhaust manifold stud, if equipped.
20. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the retainer and remove the transmission inspection cover..
21. Match mark the converter and flywheel with a dab of paint to ease installation. Disconnect the flywheel from the converter and secure the converter assembly in the transmission. Remove the remaining transmission-to-engine bolts.
22. Lower the vehicle and then support the transmission. Attach suitable engine lifting equipment and hoist the engine.
23. Raise the engine slightly and carefully pull it from the transmission. Carefully lift the engine out of the engine compartment. Avoid bending or damaging the rear cover plate or other components. Install the engine on a workstand. To install:
    
24. Attach the engine lifting equipment and remove the engine from the workstand.
25. Lower the engine carefully into the engine compartment. Make sure the exhaust manifolds are properly aligned with the muffler inlet pipes.
26. Start the converter pilot into the crankshaft. Align the paint mark on the flywheel to the paint mark on the torque converter.
27. Install the transmission upper bolts, making sure the dowels in the cylinder block engage the transmission.
28. Install the engine mount-to-chassis attaching fasteners and remove the engine lifting equipment.
29. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Connect both muffler inlet pipes to the exhaust manifolds. Install the starter and connect the starter cable.
30. Remove the retainer holding the torque converter in the transmission. Attach the converter to the flywheel. Install the converter housing inspection cover and install the remaining transmission attaching bolts.
31. Remove the support from the transmission and lower the vehicle.
32. Connect the wiring harness at the two 10-pin connectors.
33. Connect the coolant temperature sending unit wire and connect the heater hoses. Connect the wiring to the metal heater tubes and the engine coolant temperature, air charge temperature and oxygen sensors.
34. Connect the transmission filler tube bracket. Connect the manual shift rod and the retracting spring. Connect the throttle valve vacuum line, if equipped.
35. Connect the accelerator cable and throttle valve cable. Connect the cruise control cable, if equipped.
36. Connect the fuel lines and the oil pressure sending unit wire.
37. Install the pulley, water pump belt and fan/clutch assembly.
38. Position the alternator bracket and install the alternator bolts. Connect the alternator and ground cables. Adjust the drive belt tension.
39. Unplug and connect the refrigerant lines and connect the electrical connector to the compressor.
40. Install the power steering drive belt and power steering pump bracket. Connect the power brake vacuum line.
41. Place the shroud over the fan and install the radiator. Connect the radiator hoses and the transmission oil cooler lines. Position the shroud and install the bolts.
42. Connect the heater hoses to the heater tubes. Fill the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the proper type and quantity of engine oil. Adjust the transmission throttle linkage.
43. Connect the positive and then the negative battery cables. Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature. Check for leaks. Check all fluid levels.
44. Install the air intake duct assembly. Install the hood, aligning the marks that were made during removal.
45. Have a MVAC certified evacuate and charge the air conditioning system.
46. Road test the vehicle.

Most auto parts stores have them or can get them in within a day or so. Be sure to get the motor and track assembly to save your self hours at installation [yes, i said hours]. Then pop off the interior door panel, disconnect everything, reinstall and within an hour or so you are done. J.

FOLLOW THE STEERING FLUID INLET HOSE UP FROM THE PUMP ASSEMBLY LOOK FOR A BOX WITH A REMOVEABLE CAP ON IT.

hello, this is posaably a bad or loose ground in the circuit, it could even be in the headlamp switch itself. does the problem exist in the high beams as well?......good luck, marty

right side inner fender behind the battery, follow the positive battery cable,it connects directly to the solenoid. disconnect the NEGATIVE CABLE BEFORE YOU SWAP THE PART OUT!

It sounds like the alternator is the problem and that the starter is on it's way out. Even if the alternator tests okay with an amp meter, it can still be an issues, especially if it is more than 2 years old. If you continue to run the car without changing the alternator and doing a light tune up, you'll probably need a new battery too, even though you just got a new one. If you have to jump it more than three times in a week, the battery gets over loaded, even new ones.

you can check to see if the tv cable is hooked up the rubber grommet dry rots it hooks up to the throttle body. And ck down at the trans where the cable hooks up make sure it's not stuck if so lube and work the linkage back and forth.

Check your battery terminals. Look for corrosion or wear. I would replace them next. Hope this helps.

Could be the pump itself. If you have power to the pump but the pump is bad, cuuld make you think you weren't getting power to it.

the horn relay is located under the hood with three more relays including the ignition relay......If you stand from the driver side looking at the hood, it would be the first relay on your left. You can actually remove it and test your horn to see if it is going to work just to make sure. Good luck

My mom has an old Lincoln, they're great aren't they. At least that's what she thinks. :) When I had to help her fix her problem with her back end dropping I contacted Strutmasters. They made me aware of the air ride and the difference in a conversion kit for it. We purchased the product and fixed the problem. Since then I have used them for my own vehicle and suggested them to friends. Now I am suggesting them to you, they will help you out tremendously!!!! GOOD LUCK

remove the air filter casing and it is right underneath it

try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins...

Well, on my intermatics hose with pressure gauge, the gauge will show red if the compressor is not running for any length of time.

Try disconnecting and reconnecting the can of refrigerant to make sure that the end of the hose is pressing on the schrader valve inside the quick connector.

Hopefully you have r134a in the system with the adapter kit.

I have a 1997 Cadillac Deville that I added some refrigerant to, and I had to disconnect and quickly reconnect the hose to make the safety valve in the hose reset so that it would give a lower true reading in the green area, and not the red area.

I also, made sure that I pushed on the connector end to properly seat the hose end onto the quick connector. Otherwise, the can may not empty properly.


Hope this helps.

ITS AN O2 SENSOR DONT WORRIE ABOUT IT JUST PUT PREMIUM FUEL IN IT IT WILL CLEAR

being that it has electric door locks, it could be one of 2 things, firstly, the electric motor is seized, which being an older car could happen ( water entry, overuse etc), or that the lock rod has come off the barrel on the back of the lock
the bad news, the only way to check is to pull the door trim off to inspect and see the operation from the inside perspective, let me know if i can help you further

You have a check valve,in a vacuum hose ,that is bad or a vacuum line that is sucked together,or has a hole in it under the hood,there might be a vacuum reservoir that may have a hole in it,it holds vacuum for the ac heat control doors,look under the hood.