20 Most Recent 1989 Lincoln Town Car - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Never use straight antifreeze water is needed to give it its cooling properties at most the ratio should be 60/40 antifreeze / water. It sounds like a bad check valve locate and replace.

remove hoses under hood at the firewall and mounting bolts.It is a timely procedure you probably have to remove your dash to get to the heater core itself to remove it.it is a pain.should be on passenger side

left hand rear wheel well in the trunk.

gess hope u are not driving this with a fuel leak, it will ctach fire, have seen it happen, destroys thge car, check the fuel lines behind the fuel injection on the top of engine, fuel line coupler O rings may be leaking

ouch..this is a big job..if you are not familiar with. can do some damage

This is not a job for the beginner. The heater coil is located behind the dash and it must be removed. On a scale from 1-10 on a difficulty scale i would rate this 1 mean 7. Also you may have to remove a/c lines and have it recharged. This is avery difficult job to do and i would recommend calling around and getting some estimates.

It may be the valve that controls the amount of water entering heating core but I'm wondering if your engine thermostat isn't stuck open. This is what controls the coolant temperature in your engine. It closes off while engine is off. It will remain closed after you start your car until the water warms to a certain temperature then it starts to open enough to keep your car at the proper operating temperature. If it stick open then it will take a lot longer for the engine to heat up and on smaller cars might never heat up enough for your heater. If you live in very cold climates such as where I live in Wyoming, we have to change to a higher degree thermostat so we have a good heater when it's 30 below zero.

Be very cautious here but one way you can check this is to put a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator and stop the airflow that cools your engine coolant. THIS WILL CAUSE YOUR CAR TO HEAT UP AND CAN CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE IF IT OVERHEATS. Don't completely cover the radiator but if your heater warms up when you put the cardboard in front of radiator it's a good sign that your thermostat is stuck open and needs to be replaced.

The most common problem regarding heater on these cars are vacuum leaks. The plastic tubing gets brittle over time and break.

Sounds to me like the main steering wheel nut has come loose causing all these problems or the teeth that fit the shaft are worn, remove the horn cover and inspect these immediatly, this is very dangerous. Let me know.

You will have to pull the little chrome knob off the manual door lock slide, and then push the wire linkage back until it unsnaps from the plastic slide on the backside of the door panel.

More than likely it isn't a vacume line problem. It is probably the ambient air sensor located under the dash on th passenger sid. it usually has blue crrygated hose coming from both sides, and has around peice of foam on one end, so it's easy to spot. the next item to check is a heater control valve located in the engine compartment on the driver side. it is spliced into your heater hose with a hose clamp on each side. it has a connector with two wires coming out of it. its location is about the middle of the engine next to the valve cover. It is almost always these two items that cause a no heat problem, and they are easy to fix. Hope this helps
stlthbmr

If i'm not mistaken that battery group size should be a group 65 battery..you would want a battery with at least 700 cca's(cold cranking amps) you can expect to pay a good $90 for a fair priced battery for this vehicle....Your local autoparts store will have the exact application for your vehicle......happy battery hunting!! hope I helped!!!

Check The idle Air Control,Remove And Clean With Carburator Cleaner,
And Reinstall.That Should Do It?? If Not Check The TPS..

it sound as if you need to bleed the master cylinder to get the air out of the system give these websites a try www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair Manual for your car wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

the dead cell in the battery is the reason the alarm is acting up, as far as the dash light go pull the dash light dimmer control out, it may be defective, the radio might be a whole separate issue, u will need to get a special tool kit to pull the radio out of the dash, they are available from NAPA auto parts store, others carry them as well like Carquest, just tell them you want a Ford radio removal tool kit, to remove the radio just inset the little u shaped tools into the 2 holes at each side of the radio face, they release the spring clips that hold the radio in, move the tools outward while pulling lightly on the radio with the tools it will come out be patient, once the radio is out turn the ignition key to the on position and check these 2 wire colors for the presence of 12 volts
12v+ Wire: Green/Yellow
12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black

most common cause of this is the water pump leaking at the shaft seal.

did u properly adjust the new switch? go under the dash and loosen the two nuts holding th switch in place on the steering column, with the key on move the switch back and forth and see if the dash cluster light come on. let me know, I suspect it is just miss-adjusted.

the problem is your ignition switch that is on the steering colume, it needs to be replace. The same thing happedl to me.

Check that internal and externeal wires aren't shorting out. Bad capacitors could cause this too