20 Most Recent 2005 Kia Sedona - Page 6 Questions & Answers

I would recommend a scan test on the ECM to see if any trouble codes are there and point you in the right direction. The MAF sensors on thesr vehicles are problamatic and cause throttle actuator to go into limp mode. Unplug the MAF sensor and see if it makes any difference

Here's a link to the cylinder location.

unbolt the bolt next to it

Sounds like a bad connection at the battery, or one of the main power circuits to the key switch has a blown fuse. Do the headlights or anything not connected to the key switch work ?

just to give you an idea of the sort of work you be getting info, look at this video of a similar car "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op6gzMRZgKA&index=5&list=PLhCj4ZutgmTjZQWBvkOfYDN78W8XXV_PP" it is NOT for YOUR car, but it will show you what it takes, the video is about 1/2 hr long

about 8 ft pounds

Most vehicles have the fuses listed in the owners manual in the glove box or buy you a service manual from a parts supplier like Advance, Oreily's etc. .

go to you tube ok jim

Sounds like thermostat is not opening.

A/C may run if control is in the defrost position.

try touching the ac button if that does not shut off your compressor you might need a mechanic .if you live in a humid environment sometimes it is good to run the ac together with your heater to prevent your windows from fogging up.

sorry to hear you have a snapped hood cable you can access the long hood lever from the front grill with a screw driver, but the problem is the actual catch that as a very strong spring but with the hood catch released and a long screw driver and a bright torch you can with a struggle go between the catch at an angle to price the catch claw to one side, but at the same time being carful not to damage your front grill, you can not take the front grill off as it is bolted on.. It also depend on what end of the cable as broken if it in the cab you can cut the outer case back a little bit to get to the inner cable to pull it with pliers or grips, but if it's the catch end then you are going to struggle as the is a metal shroud that covers the catch so there is no way to get to the catch lever to be able to operate it by leverage. I'm sorry but you are going to struggle but it can be done. Very good luck to you hope you do it on your first attempt but release the hood lock so your not struggling against that.

Make sure the wiring on the back O2 sensors are good and tight.

will have to be more spacific. no crank is one issue and not running is another. when you say no power do you mean from the battery or just stops running? i would check the postive battery cable and make sure its tight and not corroded. also that the wire has not pulled out of the battery terminal. other then that i would need more info.

Be very carful on turning it over it sounds as if you may have slipped a tooth or two on the timing belt or even stripped some off not sure how long you have had the belt on only you will know it's history I'm worried that if this is the case you may have bent some valves as they are a very close fit up against the pistons, but if you have not changed it did the previous owner have it done, that's only if you bought it second hand it's a devil of a job to check this out as you have to remove the engine support on this model on the gearbox end to tilt the engine and you may have to disconnect some pipe work and cables, I know as I have one the same year, you have to do this to enable you to remove all the timing case covers even then it's a struggle, I tell you it's very frustrating and you will certainly say a few choice words, to be honest it's best to pay a garage to undertake the work, it's your choice. The very best of luck to you, I hope that it, nothing as serious as I've mentioned above.

.Find out what code is in the computer. Google the code to find out appropriate solutions

I have Pictures of my Kea Sedona rear brake assembly and drum I can send you, if this helps or tell me what information your after regarding the rear brake assembly. AHR

according to my date sheet Code P0 431 indicates that the Warm up catalytic converter, bank 2 - efficiency below threshold - probable cause - Catalytic converter, wiring, HO2S 2. but as you haven't stated which engine I can only give you what it states, it should be the same anyway.

I would put money on it being a faulty switch, if your confident enough take it apart and clean the contacts inside, but beware its a fiddly job with tiny bits that you can lose, so do it where you can keep track on the bits, not in the car. the seat is moved via 2 switches that are inside the unit, these do get dirty internal contacts due to being made from cheap components. Unfortunately I don't have a diagram, but if the seat will move forward/back and up/down, then I think it will be the switch.