20 Most Recent 1992 Plymouth Laser - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The carburetor may be flooding with gas.Sticking closed choke may also be at fault or both.If you are using fuel with ethanol in it, the carb may be damaged from the fuel.

The front and rear ac units have different heater cores. The front core may be blocked and needs to be flushed out. You can check this by locating the front heater hoses and feeling them to see if they are hot. If they are cold then disconnect one hose and connect a garden hose to it. Take off the radiator cap ( make sure that the radiator has cooled down and there is no pressure in the system) and flush out the heater core.

Most likely the air flow diverter/blocker isn't moving. Can it only blow from the dash vents or can you get floor heat as well? If not then most certainly that is your problem and if it's never been serviced it may need replacement. Good luck!

3569 cm3 / 217.8 cui

Check the linkage it is out off adjustment or the bushing bad,all the best.

You just go to the link below, I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem https://www.reliable-store.com

it will self purge

Try looking for a YouTube video

Reset for what? What is the problrem

Check wire connection if ok replace fan

Sorry my X-ray vision and crystal ball are both offline today.

You will probably need to remove the exhaust manifold and starter to access the plug. Simply hammer a screw driver through the old plug and pop it out. Make certain the area is clean and dry. I always add a tad bit of ultra red RTV to the edge of the new plug, and hammer it in until it is straight and flush.

look om line for instructions for bleeding brakes. Letting the fluid run thru will not displace air resulting soft pedal

Switch bad or wiring in harness..use hands its stil legal

could be fuel pump or fuel filter that's only allowing so much fuel into engine.

it is extremely good practice to replace the following when doing a timing belt belt hydraulic adjuster all idler pulleys cam shaft seal/s crankshaft seal oil is the greatest destroyer of belts so seals are a must and all of the rest have done the same amount of work as the belt the motto is , do it once , do it properly and it will be good for another 60k miles or 100k klm might cost a bit more but it can all be done for an extra hour labor and there is no bent valves expected in the future

Bleed both sides of the rear brake circuit. My opinion is if you're replacing one side of the brakes, they should both be done as both have been in service for the same amount of time. If the brake pedal wants to bounce back at you and/or feels spongy, it's an indication that air is still present in the system. I would completely change the brake fluid in the system (siphon the old fluid out of the reservoir before filling and bleeding to save time). Check the handbrake adjustment as well.