2002 Ford Expedition - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Courtesy Lamps - central junction box. fuse # F1.21 that goes to interior lamp relay in the instrument cluster and F.24 this fuse powers battery saver relay . Interior Lighting The interior light system consists of the following:

• front map lamp assembly
• front door courtesy lamp
• generic electronic module (GEM)
• glove box lamp assembly
• central security module
• interior lamp switch
• interior lamp relay
• illuminated vanity mirrors (Navigator only)
• reading lamp assembly
• rear courtesy lamp
• running board lamp
• underhood lamp assembly

The generic electronic module (GEM) illuminates the interior lamps when an unlock signal is received from the remote anti-theft personality central security module. The illuminated entry feature will be canceled when any of the following conditions are met:

• 25 seconds have elapsed since the illuminated entry feature was activated and the interior lamp control is not activated (door ajar or courtesy lamp switch on).
• The GEM receives a request from the central security module (remote transmitter lock button pressed) and the interior lamp control is not activated.
• The ignition is in the RUN or START position and the interior lamp control is not activated.

The GEM will illuminate the interior lamps when any door is open or ajar. The interior lamps are; the dome lamp, the rear cargo lamp, the door courtesy lamp and the side rail lamps. The courtesy lamps will shut off when the doors are closed and the illuminated entry feature is not active or when the vehicle speed is greater than 5 mph (8 km/h). The interior lamps will not be reactivated until the vehicle speed is less than 3 mph (5 km/h) and a new door open warning lamp switch is received. The GEM controls the interior lamps illuminated entry function by activating the interior lamp relay.

You have an electronic control module and relays involved in the operation of these lights also !

What

WELL IT IS DOING ITS A#1 JOB, TO BLOW PREVENTING FIRE, and with fuel in cars ? super job. one if the lamps are shorted, remove all and test. one wire to any of that is shorted to the body of car. the brake feed power is shorted. or AKA, overloaded to the max. get the car fixed by a tech ,that can find this super easy yes, we can,. it's a skill set , impossibles to teach in a silly text box. I remove all lamps, so I dont;'need 10 spare fuses. see? your call how to do it. yes lamps fail, for sure abuses by twisting them.(the kind that just plug in)

Sounds like you've sprung a leak somehow. Check to see if any gasoline is leaking. You should be able to smell it if it was.

Go to ford owners.Com and register for free then download the owners manual then go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box diagrams are there and the relays location also the power distribution box diagrams now you will know where the relay is and what it looks like

How do you know the fuse needs to be changed ?

• The turn signal lamps are never on

• Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
  • 13 (20A)
  • 23 (10A)
• Circuitry.
• Multifunction switch.
• Electronic flasher.

Sounds strange for all of that to be happening. The valve covers might need new gaskets. If you have a misfire, it could cause the O2 sensor to have a bad reading. Usually it's only 1 or 2 coils. (I would also replace the associated plug if they change a coil.) You could run it from there and if it doesn't clear up, then replace the O2 sensor at that point. Given the age of the car, getting the O2 sensor out may be a pain because it may be rusted/frozen in. Ford didn't believe in doing a good job putting anti-seize on the O2 sensor heads. Mine stripped when trying to replace an O2 sensor, so rather than have to replace a whole section of exhaust, I went to Midas and had them cut it out and weld in a new piece with a bung for the new O2 sensor.

Check the body control module. All the locks go through it.

This is because your master switch on the drivers door may have corroded oxidation on the contacts inside the switch and that master switch is the feed for all inside door lock switches your remote and keypad work because those electrical signals go through the driver door module you must clean all contacts on the master switch get them shiny you can use 4/0 steel wool and alcohol and also take the lock switch apart and clean the button contacts inside the switch for this use alcohol and 1000 grit sandpaper glued to a pencil and lightly spin in your fingers to shine the contacts sometimes just an eraser works but it depends on the quality of it so go with the sandpaper glued to the pencil or any circular object that will fit inside after this blow out the switch and use the alcohol to clean out and let dry

If the fluid is low on the larger section of the master cylinder, it is probably an indication that the front disc brake pads are becoming worn. As the pads wear, the caliper piston moves out of the caliper, requiring more fluid to displace it. Since brake pressure warning and low fluid warning use the same indicator light on the dash, if the brakes are operating normally, its probably not a serious problem. If you had an actual brake system fluid leak, the brakes would not work properly(low pedal, mushy feel, etc.) You should have the front pads checked, just in case they need to replaced now, rather than just refilling the brake fluid because if you fill it first, then find out the pads need replacement, when the caliper piston is pushed back into its bore, it will push the fluid back into the master cylinder, overflowing the reservoir. Because brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it attracts moisture from the atmosphere, the water and any associated corrosion/gunk it collects will settle by gravity to the lowest point, the calipers. So, you do not want to push that junk back toward the master cylinder(and thus through the anti-lock brake control), so the proper procedure to be used before pushing the piston in is to, using a brake hose pinch clamp, pinch off the hose, open the caliper bleeder valve, use a small diameter hose to direct the expelled fluid into a waste container. Then after pad replacement, pump the brake pedal to reseat the new pads against the rotors, then refill the master cylinder with appropriate fresh fluid. Lastly, when there is a cold snap, the brake fluid will contract, many times causing the warning light to come on. Then after driving(due to heat under the hood warming the master cylinder), the light may go off, or you may see the light come on briefly when cornering. This is a normal indication of the aforementioned pad wear. Hope this helps.

I think you might even have your car battery checked as it is the heart of all activity. Batteries can build up overnight and react differently in heat. Along that line is the transmitter for your key-less, the mate to your FOB which needs and uses radio signals to operate. The heat may have gotten to the part inside your car. Heat messes with electric components and may drop the strength of the signal. This is what it sounds like happens if the FOB needs to be over the hood of your car to operate. The car part of the system does not have a strong enough signal to respond to the FOB. Could be a gap in the antenna in the responder.

mode door actuator , it's a electrically controlled motor under the dash on the heater / A/C unit . Videos on youtube showing how to replace them .

How soon after the plugs blew out did the trouble begin ?

fix the idle speed to 850-900 rpm check the alternator and voltage regulator as the voltage should read 14.5-14.8 volts dc at 1000rpm or higher regardless of what is running have it bench tested by an accredited auto electrician

There could be a fuse you are missing. I don't know your model well enough to say, but some have a separate fuse under the dash.

When filling up do you top off the take or stop when the pump shuts off ? Over filling to the point the vapor canister is full of fuel ? Gas tank filler tube is rusted an leaking , Hose for evaporative emissions leaking ? Look under the vehicle at the fuel for a crack vapor canister etc... Your vehicle is a 2002 an these parts don't last for ever . Any warning light's lit on the instrument cluster ? Check engine light etc.... Do you know what a evaporative emissions system is ? It stores fuel vapors instead of venting to the atmosphere .

check fluid,while truck is running,in park,if it smells burnt,it needs replacing.

Fuse's 15 5amp , fuse 13 20amp an fuse 5 15amp located in the central junction box . Inside the vehicle under the dash right or left side . you'll have to look .

It's back near the fuel tank on the frame rail . Video on youtube maybe showing where it is and how to test and how to replace !

Use a multi-meter to check the voltage on the battery and then check it again with the engine running. Without the engine running the battery should be 12 to 13volts DC, with the engine running it should be around 14-14.5V. If not, there may be a blown fuse or bad relay or other possible things in the charging circuit. It could be another circuit that blew a fuse or relay that is supposed to be powered but isn't.

This could be one of two things and neither requires a schematic. 1. There is a wire harness inside the steering column called a clock spring. It has to twist every time you turn the wheel. They break. 2. The pads or switches are carbon impregnated rubber and they loose conductivity over time. You can either clean them with alcohol or you can replace them.. The issue is you have to pull the steering wheel off to do some of this and it can require special tools.