20 Most Recent 2001 Ford Taurus - Page 2 Questions & Answers

www.autozone.com

They can get all the parts. They also provide haynes repair manuals, any special tools (probably not required for this vehicle) and any special disassembly instructions.

I hope this helps.

have the fault codes read as it may be in limp mode from a sensor that has gone bad or recorded a possible costly failure in the engine or transmission

You can check the fuel pressure to see what it is.

Airtech pumps usually will just quit, I suspect fuel line going back to tank kinked.

Have your battery and charging system checked.The battery should turn over longer than this.Make sure the connections are clean and tight.You should also have your starting system checked.Auto Zone will check these for free.Hope this helps.Good luck.

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Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Shift the vehicle into NEUTRAL and position it on a hoist.
3. Release the fuel pressure.
4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
6. Drain as much fuel from the tank as possible.
7. Using suitable hose pinching pliers, clamp the fuel tank filler hose. Clamp the fuel tank filler hose in the location shown
   
   
8. Disconnect the three quick connect couplings from the fuel tank tubes at the tank.
9. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
10. Disconnect the fuel filter inlet tube from the filter.
11. Position a suitable lifting device under the fuel tank.
12. Remove the two fuel tank support strap bolts.
13. Lower the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module while swinging the fuel tank support straps away from the tank.
14. Clean the area around the fuel pump mounting flange.
15. Disconnect the fuel pump module electrical connector and the fuel pump module fuel outlet tube.
16. Using the special tool, turn the fuel pump module retaining ring counterclockwise and remove it. CAUTION
    The fuel pump module must be handled carefully to avoid damage to the float arm, filter and convolute hoses.
    
17. Turn the fuel pump module counterclockwise and the fuel pump module will release from the locking tabs. Remove the fuel pump module from the fuel tank.

To Install:

1. Install the fuel pump module in the fuel tank.
2. Connect the fuel pump module electrical connector and the fuel pump module fuel outlet tube.
3. Raise the tank into position and install the mounting strap bolts. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft-lbs (35 Nm).
4. Connect the fuel lines and electrical connectors at the fuel tank.
5. Lower the vehicle and refill the tank.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
7. Turn the ignition key to the ON position to pressurize the fuel system.
8. Visually inspect the fuel system for leaks.

sounds more like a valve problem. Weak valve spring or worn valve guide. Something mechanical that changes when the engine heats up.

Non-Step Style - If you look inside the connector on the Camshaft Position Sensor; you are looking at the socket (female) side of a quick connect plug. For the non-step style plug socket, the hole is the same size in the front of the plug socket as it is at the back (bottomed out in the socket hole) end of the plug socket. This means the tip of the plug (male end of the quick connect) from the vehicle will be the same size as the back end of the quick connect plug, (no step down in size.)Step Style - If you look inside the connector on the Camshaft Position Sensor; you are looking at the socket (female) side of a quick connect plug. For the step style plug socket, the hole is large at the front of the socket, then about .25 (1/4) inches into the socket, the size of the socket steps down about .0625 (1/16) inches. This means that .25 (1/4) inches into the socket, the socket hole steps down and is smaller than the socket hole at the front of the socket. The smaller socket dimension remains this size the rest of the way back (bottomed out in the socket hole) of the plug socket. Looking at the vehicle side of the quick connect plug, the tip of the plug (steps down in size.)

Leek inside car under clove box right side

The heater core might have a blockage or the inlet water valve may be stuck. The thermostat on the engine may be stuck open as well.

Here's the link and I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem Best Manuals

Visit the on-line store, known as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

I see that you replaced battery, coil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Did you or do you have a check engine light or SES light on? If you did not I agree with the problem being Anti theft which includes a replacement key not having a transponder chip. BUT at the same time it could be something as simple as dirty battery post or bad battery cables, since sometimes it does start. I RECOMMEND CHECKING THE BATTERY CABLES FIRST. let me know if this works for you.

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If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car, get one of those online manuals. You'll not have to wait for others to answer, or rely on mechanics and all. Plus i know a website that has very good manuals online, without expiry i.e. for lifetime. www.reliable-store.com

Have the throttle sensor checked. Go to Auto Zone, or Advance Auto, and have them hookup the scanner. There is no charge for this. See if there are any codes present. Good luck.

Tengo un ford escape xlt 3.0 4x4 2002 y la luz del nivel del coolant se enciende luego se apaga esta asi mientras la guagua esta tiempo prendida pero el nivel del coolant esta dnd debe de estar, q podria ser?

Pretty easy if your mechanically inclined. Raise the vechicle and put it on jack stands. Remove the tire unbolt the outer tie rod hit around it a few times with a hammer since its been in for awhile and that will release it unbolt lower ball joint hit around it with your hammer you'll need a pry bar pry down on the lower control arm so the ball joint will pop out of the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin from the center bolt then remove the center bolt which may be between a 21mm to a 30mm before you completely remove the bolt tap on it a few time to loosen the axle from the bearing. Pull the spindle toward you and the axle should come out. With your pry bar pry the inner shaft out from the transmission. take the new one put it back into the tranny tap on it lightly with the bolt back on because you dont want to ruin the threads and once it flushes just put it back through the spindle put the ball joint back in put the tie rod back on tighten everything dont forget to put cotter pins back in. Sounds like fun I have to do one this weekend Good luck

my first thought here is a UJ or constant velocity joint faulty or the splined shaft on the end has the clip missing allowing it to come out ,i can only suggest you ask a local mechanic to have a look for you .sorry i cannot give a more specific answer ,i would need to see the vehicle for this