2003 Ford Focus - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

look for the fuse that is listed as "INST" in the fuse block, check to see if it is blown, if not, then look for the point under the dash where a bunch of brown or black wires are attached to the frame with a screw or bolt, then loosen and re-tighten the bolt.

Possibly a weak battery or poor earth / starter wiring that's only showing issue when current demand is high.

It's not difficult if you have the tools, space, knowledge, and most of all money and time. Not to mention a second car. I took two days for mine and one was because they (store) gave me the wrong throw out bearing. Yes replacing the clutch is only part of the problem. Once you drop the engine a little and maneuver the tranny out of the way from the tight spaces and separate it from the motor mounts to bring it down, you have it gutted out that any sensible person will change the engine's freeze plugs and put new bearing grease to the shaft, buy new bearing and then the new clutch..don't forget the alignment tool to make sure it's properly aligned or else you will wear it down or may not shift smoothly again. Yeah, this is a job alright. Better have your wits for this. I have sometimes told my brother when it deals with these kind of dilemmas, choose your battles. Weigh your options. I did it but I have all the equations in my favor and yet I ran into snags and some scuffed elbows and knuckles. Plus had to yell and swear a little at times. Tough situation, Sorry, I don't sugar coat it. It's tough but do able. Gabe

Coing? If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7

This is a big job. First removing the upper intake and possible the airbox. then the fuel rail and injector connectors needs to be removed or disconnected then remove the lower intake. Possible having to remove the valve covers first.exhaust manifold(s) will have to be removed. Then you can remove the heads. There will be many electrical connectors that will have to be disconnected. Inspect the heads for cracks around the valves is where they usually crack. Inspect all valves for damage or uneven wear. ALWAYS follow torque specs and sequence when installing the heads. A manual will be verys helpful with this job. The alternator,P/S pump may also have to be removed or moved out of the way. Cleaning is very important. Generaly the parts you will need are.

Upper and lower intake gaskets
Head gasket
Head bolts
Valve cover gaskets
Injector O-rings
Exhaust manifold gaskets

Hopefully this kinda helps.

short in cluster remove clean with alcohol look for snowflake discoloration on circuit print reinstall If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mike_9693b5ad75773352

It sounds like you have a head gasket problem if this was helpful please leave good back

No it's not it works on the can. Controller area network. suspect battery fault or more likely the instrument cluster is at fault. do all gauges drop and the speedo reading is just dashes? if so this is a cluster fault. Sorry!

You ether have a bad batter that won't hold a charge or you have something staying on. or your alternator isn't fully charging your battery.

I do not see. why. If you want to you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes and while disconnected push the brake pedal. This will reset

Hi there, I have never found anyone recommend changing the OEM/spec thermostat based on the vehicle's relocation. If your interior heat temperature is lower than what you believe it should be, you could have it live tested with a OBDII system. If you're confident it's lower than it should be, it would likely not be attributed to your climate, but simply your thermostat --- it may not be closing enough to restrict fluid movement, and hence compromise heat buildup. This would simply require you to replace the faulty thermostat --- because it's faulty as opposed to because of climate. Good luck.

Depends on what engine you have. 2.0 HP Zetec SVT Focus 5W-30 motor oil all others 5W-20 motor oil.

Hi michelle2551,providing the oil dipstick is the right one for your car then if it reads 1/2 qrt low it should be topped up typically when an oil change is performed and the car is started it will fill the oil filter therefore appearing a little low, it may read full initially but once it is run and shutoff it reads low follow the manufacturers oil level indicator and top it up hope this helps good luck

You have to blled the pump as it has an air lock

Check the light bulbs, the connections to the bulbs and the fuses for the indicators. Start with the indicator lamp fuses if all indicator lights are not working.. Their location is shown in the owners manual. If the problem is isolated to just one or 2 of the lights, you need to check the wiring, the connections and the light bulbs. However there will likely be multiple fuses on the car covering the indicator lamps so check these also. I have 4 different fuses on my own car covering different indicator lamps so check the fuse information in your owners manual for details of which fuses cover which lamps. If you do find a blown fuse is the cause, only replace it with a fuse of the correct amperage. If it is a 15 amp fuse that has blown use only a 15 amp fuse as a replacement. If the fuses, wiring, wiring connections and bulbs are all fine, but non of the indicators are working, the likely problem is a faulty indicator switch on the steering column.

Simple fix. Use the clear spray sold on TV. Clean surface first. Cheap as you don't have to find and buy a new tank.

Could you tell me more it could be several things could be fuel pump fuse could be fuel safty shut off switch could be starter could be loose wire conection when you try to start it what does it do does it turn over does it make a squeeling noise

The transmission has synchronisers to help line up the gears when you shift from one gear to another. If this transmission has been treated rough or rawhided and speed shifted, these synchroniser clips become bent and turn up and won't allow the synchroniser to slid over them into place and hold the transmission in gear. Eventually you will have to replace them. You will notice if you take it easy when shifting, it will get easier. Don't get in a hurry and jam the shifter or it will just get worse and they will have to be replaced. I hope you better understand how your shifter work. I hope you can buy some time before you have to put a fair amount of money it to it. Good Luck.

because you have taken the terminals off the battery for cleaning ,it is possible that the CPU program has become corrupted . Try using a scanner to reset that program

Where does one start? Is the same tranny used with DOHC engines? If not, there's your problem. If so, verify that you have not cross-connected two identical-looking connectors. The best way to do that is to inspect the wire colors in the connectors against the wiring schematic. That will prove the connector is connected the proper circuit. Yours is not a simple problem to solve. Not many do the swap you have done. If this is a hobby thing, fellow racers can advise you better. There are forums online for that sort of thing. (Been there, done that with Mitsubishis!)