ROUGH IDLE,CONSTANT STALLING OF ENGINE,DRIVES FINE WHEN UNDER LOAD
idle control valve maybe
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
1993 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4- hard pedal, hard to stop, new booster and vacuum pump has 20 in of vacuum. By=passed all other vacuum accessories, went straight from pump to booster, same problem. Help!!!
Check front calipers, caliper should "float" to be self centering. If the caliper is stuck only the inside pad is pushing on the rotor instead of the caliper pinching the rotor. You will need to remove the caliper from the assembly, there are usually rubber boots to keep out the dirt and water from the slide pins, they are ofter cracked/broken or missing altogether. You may need a small torch and some rustbuster to get things moving again.
Posted on May 19, 2009
Hello all , I hope someone can help me, I have been trying to get my work truck working for 2 weeks now. It runs great sometimes and doesn't smoke, but then it will start smoking and the check engine light comes on, when I stop and put it in park it will die. It will crank right back up but wont idle unless I put it in gear(automatic trans). I have changed the oxygen sensor, didn't help then did a complete tuneup, wires,caps,rotor,plugs, fuel filter, air filter,ran for a couple of days and started again, then changed the MAP sensor, didn't help. Then took it to the Ford dealership here in McComb, Ms and they put it on the computer (light was on) they said they couldn't tell me anything but they thought it was electrical, ha. And charged me $30 to tell me nothing. I changed the fuel pressure regulator this morning now it seems to run bad all the time..... it idles rough and still smokes, the smoke is raw fuel, the truck doesn't burn oil. I don't know what else to do, does anyone have a picture of the vacuum system for this engine? It runs better if I open up a larger vacuum line(unplug it). But it still smokes........ Oh yea its a 1993 model great worker when it running!
check to see if the ground wire from the battery to the engine is tight if the cable is loose it will cause the injectors to flood the egine
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
how to change transmission oil on a 1993 ford f250 diesel 5 speed?
Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications
The manual transmission models M50D; Borg-Warner T-18 and ZF model S5-42 each use Motorcraft MERCON© Multi-Purpose Automatic
Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or DDX (ESP-M2C166-H) or equivalent.
There should be a drain plug near the bottom of the transmission, the plug should be removed by inserting a 3/8" ratchet in the hole on the plug. Drain the oil.
There should be a similar plug higher on the transmission case, remove this and fill from there.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
Trying to find out how a double fly wheel clutch works. Replaced slave cylinder and now clutch is extremely hard to disengage.
It must a Diesel? Exterior slave cylinder? The double, or split, flywheel has is made of two major parts. One part is bolted to the crankshaft and there is a bearing that supports the other part of the flywheel that pressure plate bolts to. There are cushioning springs in the flywheel instead of in the clutch disc, it's not a very good set-up and they are prone to failure. "LUK Clutch Company", makes a solid flywheel and regular clutch for those trucks, there might other companies too. The clutch works the same way as any other clutch but, the reason it pushes hard is because the sleave that the release bearing (throw out bearing) rides on, is most likely galled or dry. That sleave is made of aluminum and they have a nasty habit of getting messed up, I don't remember if there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold that sleave on the front of the trans. At any rate that sleave is easy to replace once the trany is out of the vehicle, check the arm for wear and cracks too. If you don't want to pull the trans to fix it right, you might be able pull the boot out that goes around the clutch release arm enough to squirt some oil up on that sleave, that might get you by for a while.
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
truck acts like it is running out of gas? Replaced fuel filter. Ran fine for awhile but now still acts like it is starving for fuel.
my '93 f-250 (4.9L) stopped running while driving, now it acts like it isn't getting any fuel. Tried switching tanks, but still does the same. What would be the problem.
Posted on Sep 01, 2010
install door latch cable
Technical Instructions
See picture below
1. Remove door trim panel and water shield per
NOTE: Place a strip of masking tape along the edge of door before removing trim panel to prevent scratching the door with the trim panel removal tool.
2. Snap cable housing end from slot on inside door handle assembly and disconnect cable.
NOTE: Use care to prevent bending of cable housing retainer bracket.
3. Remove rear window channel retaining bolt to allow access to door latch.
4. Position a block (screwdriver handle) between the latch and the door inner panel and snap the cable housing end out of slot (towards inner panel) on door latch assembly and disconnect cable at latch.
NOTE: Use care when removing cable housing to avoid bending of the latch. Discard cable.
5. Hook up new cable at latch and snap cable housing end into slot.
NOTE: Make sure the cable housing is fully seated in the slot.
6. Apply a light film of Teflon grease to the barrel end of the cable. See Figure A.
7. Install return spring. See Figure A.
NOTE: Ensure that the push button rod is located between the spring and the door inner panel.
8. Install foam block at latch. See Figure A.
9. Position water shield over the return spring and install push pin to retain upper portion of water shield. See Figure B.
NOTE: Push pin goes in the same hole as the return spring.
10. Clean hands of grease before performing step 11.
11. Remove protective backing along the lower edges only of the water shield. See Figure A.
12. Install latch water shield at door latch. Pinch the exposed adhesive surfaces together to secure the water shield. Check to insure water shield is not showing through the door shut-face latch access hole. See Figure B.
13. Attach cable to inside door handle assembly and snap cable housing into slot.
NOTE: Make sure the cable housing is fully seated.
14. Check the gap as shown in remote control using a 3/16 drill bit shank end. The drill bit shank should fit in the gap without any clearance and a tight fit is preferred. See Figure C.
15. If the drill bit is too loose or does not fit, adjust by bending the cable bracket as required.
16. Place plastic wedge on remote bracket as shown. Wedge must fit with at least a light press fit for retention. See Figure D.
17. After installation, Apply a dab of special Teflon grease, supplied with the service cable to cable housing openings at inside handle end. The grease should surround and contact the cable all the way around, to seal the opening between the cable and the cable housing.
18. Check all latch functions to insure correct assembly of latch system. If the inside handle does not release properly, replace the inside handle remote release mechanism.
19. Reposition and install trim panel using new push pins if required.
Posted on Dec 07, 2010
I have a problem with my 1993 ford f250, there is hard shifting in the transmission, what could be the problem?
how long has it been since the fluid and filter been changed, also check to make sure that the transmission mount bolts are tight.
Posted on Feb 18, 2011
where is the speedometer sending unit located
For
speedometer related issues, the help links are provided below. Click the link
below to go through its details: ---- How to trouble shoot speedometer? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/speedometer-not-working.html ----------- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/speedometer-runs-backward.html --------- http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/08/warning-lights-on-and-speedometer-died.html -------------- http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/abs-brake-lights-warning-indicator.html ----------- http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/vehicles-cluster-panel-not-reading.html --------- --------------- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-odometer-works-in-cars.html -------------- http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/speedometer-not-working-on-1993-ford.html -------- This will help. Thanks
why speedometer not working?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/1996-fiat-bravo-speedometer-not-working.html
------------
Speedometer works but odometer not working?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/speedometer-works-but-odometer-not.html
-----------
Speedometer runs backward?
Warning lights on and
speedometer died?
ABS & Brake lights
warning indicator steady on dash and speedometer not working?
Vehicles Cluster panel Not
reading Miles?
Odometer works properly but speedometer works
intermittently?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/odometer-works-properly-but-speedometer.html
How odometer works in cars?
Speedometer not working on Ford?
Posted on Mar 02, 2012
How do I remove the transmission on a 1993 f250 and what tools will I need to remove the transmission and the flywheel
Posted on Jan 18, 2016
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