1982 Ford F 150 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you need a flywheel that in balanced with the 300

Two things to engage, the oil pump shaft on bottom and the camshaft gear on to the distributor shaft. I sometimes crank the engine by hand while pressing down on thedistributor until the distributor falls all the way into fully seated.

You must have a defective transfer case control module.

I have a 83 ford F100 with the 5.0L V8 302 engine, 4 speed automatic transmission emission control diagram, would this help?

If you can, it is under the truck at the transmission. You'll see a bracket with two nuts that secure the linkage. Loosen the nuts and take up any slack on the throw out bearing arm. Most are hydraulic. If yours is, there is no adjusting. Time to replace the clutch package.

If you are fitting a different radio then use the blue wire if it's factory fitted it will have a multi plug fitted into the main loom.

Your power wire is Red and your accessory power wire will be red with a yellow line on it ?our red goes to your batery and the red and yellow goes to ingnition so that the radio only goes on when you turn the key

In most of these, you will be taking the door panels off, and when you find a really good, bright light, you should discover the outside locks are held in place with sheet metal "C" clips, or the equivalent that are accessed inside the door itself. You will see how to take them off. Before you go to all that much trouble, I recommend you talk to a locksmith, and see if he can re-key your locks with out taking them off the truck at all. God bless your efforts.

Probably a blown bulb or popped fuse. Sometimes the back of the dome light can ground against the underside of the roof, popping the fuse. Start by replacing the bulb.

There should only be 1 screw located at the base of the carb facing outward. The method I use requires a tachometer. If you don't have a tachometer then you can use the "by ear" method, though it's not as accurate. With the engine off, start by turning the screw all the way in, then back it out 1 and 1/2 turns. This usually give you a baseline to start with. Start the engine and get it up to operating temperature, make sure the choke is fully open, and have the air cleaner and all vacuum lines installed. Using the tachometer (or ear) turn the screw (usually out) until the RPMs increase. If they don't increase by turning the screw out, then try turning it in. Eventually the RPMs will stop climbing while turning the screw (as said earlier, usually out). THEN turn the screw the opposite direction (usually in) until the RPMs JUST start to drop off. That should be real close to the optimum setting. This setting is ONLY for the base idle air/fuel mixture and is NOT for anything else. Hope this helps.

Just above the ford emblem you will feel the hood latch to the left of it you'll feel a paddle even with the surrounding metal. Depress that paddle and lift the hood.

You will need new igniton cylinder. Sounds like you have a short in the cylinder.

dealership or junk yard

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8

if its look the same then it will work ,dont worry about gear ratios and all the technical stuff so long as the electronic stuff lines up away you go and it dont fit then make it fit

Have you tried changing the filter at the carb?

check engine compression before spending anymore if compression is ok i would look at carburetor rebuilt my friends solved his miss

There is a tool called a radiator pressure tester. You can borrow it from Tool loaner programs like at Autozone. Do not exceed the pressure on the cap and do this test on a cool motor. It will help.If you still can not see the leak, there are dye additives to add to the water. Look on the ground for escaping water.The problem may be internal if you do not have an external leak.

Are you saying you think it is getting too much fuel, or not enough ?Could be the choke or something inside the carb.

change vacuum presure hoses, check for leak, repalce aternator vacuum passage.