20 Most Recent 1991 Nissan Maxima - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The Trans is on it's way out. Your best bet is to get a used one. Usually when they go out that is it they wont move at all.

Check the water pump - it might not transport enough cooling fluid as it used too.

The temperature gauge goes to hot even though there is water in the bottle

It is 20, and 10 years past its designed life, this stuff happens. You need to figure out whether the latch cable has broken or the latch itself is bad. If the cable is bad, you should be able to reach up under the dash, find the cable coming from the back of the lever and pull it out from the inside. If it comes freely, then you know it is broken but do NOT pull it all the way out. If however the cable is good but the latch is broken you are going to have to get at the latch via under the bumper or through the grille, and unbolt it or the male prong on the hood. Some extensions and swivels will come in handy for your socket set. When you get the latch or prong loose the hood will open

There is also a remote possibility that the spring which pops the hood up when you pull the lever has broken and the hood is actually unlatched so long as the lever is pulled. Check this by having someone pull and hold the lever from inside while you try to open the hood and release the secondary.

Check the brake light swtch above the brake pedal, it might be sticking.

The fault with the temperature guage will be that there is some loose connection from the sensor as it fails to read. So check the new sensor and connections.
The car seems to overheat as it is possible that the radiator needs a flushing. So please check the radiator ports, check on the timing of the engine, all the four wheels for free running and the brakes , if there is jamming while on the run that can strain the engine.

That is a V6 engine. It has a timing belt and not a chain. Here is a picture that I hope helps.



Be careful because the pistons will hit the valves if the timing isn't set right.

Hi, the voltage should be at least 14 at the battery with engine running. If the voltage is higher at the alternator, the charge wire or fuse is bad. If the voltage is good at the battery, the likely problem is a draw in the car. Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5925550-dead_battery_troubleshooting . These are genericinstructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

here you go. i hope this helps and good luck.

either transmission or motor--with the age cud be a # of things--start with simplest 1st--chec fluid and level in gears--then test fuel pump etc--when was last electrical tuneup--buy a repair book for maintenance details

Are you sure what you found is the temperature sensor? It sounds like it could be a faulty camshaft position sensor. That would explain the erratic idle and rpm spike. Will aslo cause the engine to skip because of the irregular signal being sent back to the ecm.

You either have a bad solenoid or the computer needs to be replaced.

WRONG BULB IN REAR OR BAD GROUND.CHECK GROUNDS

Either bad starter relay, bad wiring between the switch and the solenoid, or a bad ignition switch.

Nissan doesn't use an inertia switch, they use a roll over valve.

i would check that your starter motor isnt f**ked or has a break in the line.. your battery isnt dead.. that you have no blown fuses as their should be a fuse for your starter motor... and that your ignition is working and not shorting out these are all common problems in cars..

hope this helps XD

your transmission is either out of fluid or is damaged beyond functionality-sounds real bad, if it takes reving the car over 6 grand to move it, you need a trans.

You should get a colder thermastat, the one you have is set to close at a hotter temp. they make differnt temps for differnt cars.