1999 Nissan Quest - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you need to first adjust rear brakes per TSB in our file, 98-14=4 I think. (If you replaced or adjusted rear brakes)

Then bleed again, but you may need to loosen the pressure valve on the master cylinder, or apply very hard pressure on the dowm stroke with the front bleeder on the claiper open just slightly. You have to overcome the the valve spring in it as it is deisgned to send pressure to the rears before the fronts to allow the rears to engage at the same time as the fronts. It takes higher pressure on bleeding to over come.

go here for help

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

you need to remove door trim panel for access. Ford has one but you will have to paint it. buy a psray can of paint at an auto astore. paint code on your driver door opening sticker.
quest & villager are same van, built at same plant by Ford, Nissan powertrain.

Go to our site and read files. everything about villfewr quest. 3000 members. I was Ford manager of service issues on this van. I can get you part number and you can order from tascafordparts.com at discount. I also have shop manual & wiring book for sale $20. Let me know.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

dont drive vehicle abs stands for anti brakeing system can cause your self or others harm

it's usually the cam sensor in the distributor. Are you sure it was changed? 99 was famous for bad distributor bearing thrwoing brown dust around on the optical sensors in the distributor.

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor with carb cleaner? It will amke it run lean and hesitate. 1/2 hour repair. Spray MAF wires. 2 screws in air intake tube to expose the 2 wires. Do not touch. Glass coated.

go here

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

first make sure there is not any air in the cooling system by running with radiator cap off and keeping coolant level full, but it sounds as if you have a blown head gasket. sure signs are consistant over heating, loss of coolant with no evidence of leak, or smoke out of tail pipe with a bitter sweet smell to it.

replace starter selinoide

have a look at the joint between the engine and the transmission. you will see like a cylinder hang there.

Sounds like the EGR valve is unserviceable or dirty..........Not expensive to replace.Hope this helps you out.

Sounds like you have a faulty door lock actuator.

That pressure washing can and probably has damaged a sensor under your hood, but I doubt that a bad knock sensor would cause misfiring. Check your other sensors, lots of them on that engine.

1. The button says, Solve It. This may not be a simple problem. The bottom line is you need 4 things to get a 4 cycle engine to run. Compression, spark, fuel/air mix AND they all have to be there at the right time. Spark can be checked by putting one of the old plugs on the head along with the plug wire. Try to start the engine and see if you see the spark. (Yes, you will probably need somebody to turn the key for you.) The compression can be checked with a compression gauge but I'll assume this vehicle ran before you made changes and it's difficult to ruin that component. Fuel can be "injected" using a squirt bottle. (Don't do this with the engine turning over) Remove the intake housing between the air filter and the throttle body. If you don't know what that means then stop reading and take your vehicle to a mechanic. Once you have access to the throttle body open the butterfly and squirt about a tablespoon of fuel into the opening. Another option is to get a can of starter fluid. Spay no more than one second from the can. Get all fuel back from the intake and see if it will start and then dies. You will need to hold the gas pedal about half way down and of course let it up if the engine starts. If it starts and then dies you have a fuel flow problem. If you don't see the spark from the first test you have a firing problem. The spark should be a solid reddish/blue color. If it's a weak yellowish color you may need a new distributor. I think the coil is built into the distributor. If you have a good looking spark, good compression, fuel and it still doesn't run then you probably have a timing problem. Enough of my two cents...
   

i would go to the auto parts store and have them check your battery as it sounds like the cranking voltage is not there or not what it should be

might just be maintenance light or might be something more serious

cannot tell from your post because you did not identify where the light was located... many vehicles have two of these service lights now

additionally, you did not id the year/make/model/engine/trans/accessories and/or aftermarket add-ons

it like going to the doctor and telling him/her you "think" you are sick and that's all you say!

trace the hose back to the line and the line to the master
along the way open any fittings and verify if you get fluid there

might be a restriction in a line/hose or even a faulty ABS module!!!

fuse panel is where all the fuses are located
you have one under the hood and one under the dash and maybe more depending on year and model

pretty easy. need to mark osition of distrbutor on engine and position of rotor on distriboutor.

go here and read engine file

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

your local auto parts store can give you your specific information, as can the parts desk person at your local dealership, by looking it up in an electronic component locator manual

You may want to change the EGR valve.Hope this helps.

alternator is bad and the vehicle is running of your battery, make sure belt is tight on alternator if it is then you will have to purchase a new one. Hope this helped tim

1. check the cooling fan fuses
2. supply battery voltage directly to the fan assembly plug
a. if fan is good
locate and test/replace cooling fan relay
b. if bad
replace cooling fan assembly
if still is not working check continuity cooling fan system circuit/wiring