1996 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check your fuel pressure with key on and engine off it should be 60-66 psi.If it is below 52 psi it will not have enough pressure to open the poppit valve inside the injectors to allow fuel thru.

Why lol? Whats the issue? Does it have a brake booster or hydraulic pump?

the car needs to be reset with the reset button located in the engine conpartment.hope this helps?

brother had the same problem and his was a dirty air filter check that and check the air filter housing and hoses and make sure that they are clean

if its elect 4x4 check fuses .check to see if u r getting power to the moter on the transfer caseif u r getting power listen if u can here the moter working.if it is working then the spline has worn or broken remove the moter and put ur truck back into 2 wheel until u replace it

You can't buy a new transmission, just a rebuilt one. Use a quality GM rebuilt from the dealer. NAPA AND CARQUEST REBUILTS ARE ALSO GOOD QUALITY. STAY AWAY FROM ANY DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS STORES REBUILTS, THEY HAVE RELIABILITY ISSUES

Your trouble is most likely not in the transfer case but in the front differential engagement solenoid.

Use a can of spray carburetor cleaner ans spray around the gaskets and hoses, the engine sound and idle speed will change if you hit a leak.

have fixed several wiper problems on chevy trucks in that year range .and in every caseproblem has been in the green circuit board of ththe wiper control . that is located under the hood on the fire wall just below the drivers side wiper . remove the screws off the cover plate and check for a broken solder joint on the grond wire . located where wire plugs in . most time you cant even see the bad solder joint ( called a cold joint ) but just resolder anyway . good luck

sending unit on the fuel pump in the tank is stuck, and needs to be replaced. its expensive, but that will fix your issue. its the housing around the pump that has the float arm on it. you can try to free the float arm by removing your pump assembly, but cant guarantee its any good after being stuck

Test the connector to see if 12 volts is present at the #16 pin (see plug diagram below) if no power it will not power up the scan tool. If no power check the owners manual for a fuse marked DLC (data link connector) plug power.

On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.

When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.

Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.

I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.

GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.

If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.

Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/componentlocations/componentLocationMain.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&categoryNValue=4294963411&categoryName=Oil+Pressure+Switch.follow link.

Check compression on that cylinder. All the items you replaced could have been tested to see if they where working correctly. If they where than there was no need replace them and the next logical step would be to check for a mechanical failure rather than an electrical or engine management failure. In other words if the engine is not solid mechanically than there is no reason to replace electrical parts to try and solve the issue. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I had to do this on my 97 K1500 with a 5.7. That motor came with a SCPI injection system. I bought a kit from O'Reillys Part# Part # : 63886 ' Line: BWD. This converts the injection system to to MFI. You have to take the plenum off to do it. Pretty easy actually if you have basic mechanic skills. Just be careful when inserting the poppets & get the gasket kit also

Most likely have a leak to repair & because of thatit is low on refrigerant & cyclingDon't add anyHave it properly repaired

Hard to say.Under normal conditions, vent temp should be about 20 or 25 degrees less than outside air temp.So if outside air temp is 90 degrees and the engine is at idle speed, vent temp would be around 65 or 70. On the road the vent temp could be less than 60 degrees.If outside air temp is 70 degrees vent temp will be around 40 - 50.

could be fuse or it could have gotten unplugged under the hood or could be the contacts in the steering wheel

Speed sensor on the tailshaft of your ****** drivers side , i have a 96 k1500 5.7 it got stuck in second but still had reverse, i hooked it to a diagnostic cpu @ autozone and it was the speed sensor, about $80 and 5min. Good luck

Try Autozone.com for free wiring diagrams. Just register your truck and you can get Powerbox layouts too. With several things not working, you may have a bad relay or larger Fusible link burned out.