1983 Oldsmobile Ciera - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, welcome to FixYa. My name is Shaun. I hope I can help you out with your problem. From the sounds of it, it definitely sounds like your CV joint is the issue, especiallyif you noticed the clicking sound getting worse when turning the car. CV joints aren't incredibly difficult to replace with some basic tools, but if you have limited experience, I would recommend letting a shop do it. First you will need a socket to fit the spindle nut. This is the large nut that holds the wheel assenbly to the CV shaft. If you do not have access to an air impact wrench, I highly recommend getting a 1/2"drive socket and using a large (at least 16") 1/2" breaker bar to remove this nut, as it is VERY tight. Secondly, you will need a basic socket set and a basic combination wrench set. if you son't already have these, here's a word of advice. Don't waste your money buying any SAE tool sets. Buy metric. You can always find a metric equivalent for SAE, but not vice-versa. It may also be necessary to get a ball joint seperator, but you can rent these from most auto parts stores.

Heres the basic rundown of the process. Jack the car up and place it on a jack stand. Remove the tire, then the spindle nut. It helps to loosen the spindle nut a little before jacking the car. Seperate the ball joint on the lower A-arm from the hub assembly, allowing you to swing the entire suspension assembly outward. It may also help to disconnect the sway bar linkage if your car has one to make this easier. While pulling outward on the hub assembly, tap inward on the end of the CV shaft, dislodging it from the wheel assembly. Once the CV is free from the wheel assembly, pull it free from the transmission. This may take some prying to get it free. Make sure you have a drip pan under the car, as wou will lose some fluid. Reinstallation of the new CV axle is the reverse of removal. Make sure to check your transmission fluid level when you are done.

I hope this helps you in some way. Have a good day!

Mine was the centrebearing which in turn failed broke the rubber coupling at the gearbox side and snapped the tailshaft so be careful driving

Vanity mirror? In sunvisor? Usually you have to replace the whole visor to do that task. I haven't known of any other way to do it over the years. I hope this help in your issue. Jesus loves you, John 3:16-17 (KJV)

Change the crank sensor.

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The overdrive solenoid in the transmission locks the torque converter, and at low speeds, if it activates or hasn't released from a high enough speed, it will cause stalling. If that is what's happening, it could be the solenoid, or the signal line to it from the ECM, or the ECM itself not working properly.

could be a fault with the fuel pump. it may be wearing out. check the fuel pressure at delivery. a blocked filter can also do this as its being surged for more fuel not the normal filter this one is on the pump it has larger holes and if you have sludge in the tank this can stop the fuel delivery. . for vacuum leaks spray some carb cleaner around the air lines any change in the engine usually indicates an air leak. also the fuel pressure valve these can all lower or stop fuel pressure.

Inside the truck. You have to go threw the back seat. Pop the seat off, remove the bolts holding the back on, lift up and out. Crawl threw. Fix or replace the trunk lock.

What year Olds ? What engine ? 3.8 , 3.1 ,3.4 ? Is there spark ? Pull both plug wires off of one of coils an crank the engine , is there spark ? No , ignition module bad , probably ! Videos on you tube testing GM waste spark ignition system .

Pull the spark plugs out and pour cutting oil in like "Marvel Mystery Oil" or WD40 (about 4 ounces) into each cylinder, let it set for a few days and try to crank it over with the spark plugs out, if it cranks blow all the oil out of the cylinders, install fresh spark plugs and pray.

I do not show this year to have a cabin air filter.

Turn ignition On then off, on then off,, on then off then on in a rapidly don't start. Watch engine light it will flash count flashing. It will flash several times first number then pause then flash several times second number in code. If more than one code will be a longer pause and more flashing

That's perfectly normal - all cars 'lift' at the rear when you put them into reverse.

The gas cap may be the problem; when its vent is blocked it builds vacuum in the tank and stops the gas flow. Try releasing it or replace it.

See if you can get a socket to tighten up the bolts. If not , a temporary fix may be to use a bottle of oil leak fix from an auto parts store. There is something in the liquid which causes the gasket to swell and slow down or stop oil leaks. Ive heard though that long term, this stuff can cause the gasket to eventually fail completely and will have to be changed anyway.

you will have to check the wiring from the power control module back to find the loss of power with a volt meter.

You mite as well change the crank sensor too , you replaced everything else ! Parts stores love you ! What's missing after it stops , spark ? Can't be fuel you replaced everything there or did you ? fuel pump relay ! What year is your Cutlass ? What engine does it have ? 2.4 or 3.1 L .could have two crank sensors 7X an 24x an there is also a cam sensor ! You could have taken it to a repair shop an spent less ! You should have had it hooked up to a scan tool that shows engine data !

Door switch stuck in the closed position. Or the switch that turns them on when doors are locked could also be stuck in "on" position.

Could be a defective brake switch