20 Most Recent 2001 Dodge Stratus - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I would check your connections at the battery. Look for corroded or loose connections.

The link below shows Dodge error codes: https://www.engine-light-help.com/dodge-check-engine-light.html Your error code indicates A/C Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High. It probably is due to either a short or grounding of a wire/switch/sensor. Do the things you can do yourself - check all earth wires around the ac unit. Clean and tighten them. If your ac works fine, ignore the code. If not - don't waste time and money changing bits in an attempt to solve the problem. Visit a workshop

Go to http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams .

code p 0139 refers to heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2 bank 1--slow response===causes --heating inoperative--wiring--HO2S or oxygen sensor(O2) 2 bank 1---slow response===causes--wiring ---O2 sensor as you have replaced the O2 sensor twice with no results then it will be the heated sensor that is faulty heated sensors are the units in the exhaust manifold of exhaust pipe before the cat converter and O2 sensors are the units after the cat converter It is normally the HO2 sensor that fails and the wiring problem is from not using the correct special socket for installation or removal that causes damage to the fragile wires to the unit

NO, it is for power steering and comes up when idle is too low for low speed steering, also check if power steering fluid is low.

Not sure what you are referring to? If you are talking about a fuel reset switch than no. Ford is the only one that uses a resetable inertia fuel cut off switch. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Check the fuel regulator for gas leaking. This is found on the fuel rail. If gas is present, replace it. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/chris_b82b45c59bcf133d

Best hope is yes blown gasket worst cracked head or cylinder liner

Possible defective/sticky idle air control motor. It may also be caused by a dirty throttle body/plate causing minimum airflow to be off. I would suggest cleaning the throttle body/plate with carb cleaner to see if the problem corrects itself. If not, the IAC may not be working properly and causing this issue. Is the check engine light on? If so, scan for any codes that may pertain to an idle issue and repair as necessary

Try a new gas cap or take the cap to a local shop and have it tested for a bad seal.

most have a fused power supply some are on the cigar lighter fuse you might see if the cigar lighter works first

Check fuel filter,clean throttle body,air filter.

Remind me not to ask for a ride from you. When you jiggle the key you are probably connecting, or re-connecting, the power from the ignition switch to that portion of the fuse panel that covers all those things that don't work. Except for the power door locks- that may be a separate issue. But everything else only has power when the key is in on (run) or start. And the fuses to them only have power from the ignition switch when the position is in on or run. You have a bad, worn lock cylinder, or a bad electrical portion of the ignition switch. You'd have to pull the cover shrouds off the steering column to see and get to the parts.

When you use the ignition key you activate both the starter and ignition circuits. When you jump the starter motor all you do is crank the engine - you have not energized the ignition so car will not start.

Wheel bearings are likly and I've changed many to solve this problem but it's esy to pick the wrong one with e vehical jacked and on jack stands suporting the car by the lower control arms ( normal ride hieght) run the car with a driver and listen to ti run , of course theres no load on the powertrain so there will be some lash ( power on to power decline ) cheack up. The roaring noise can be isolated by puting a sounding bar ( long metal rod ( sr=crew driver)) other against the part till the sound is rounded up rear but possible the carrier bearings in the (rear end) front drive. The axel bearings and on some units the carrier bearing thats in the CV axel on the block. Sounding rod will find and change the noisey part. Professional help is a good idea if you can't carry this out saftly

check your work again check All sensors are working measure each one with meter check against manufacturers specs, check coil check all joins and earths especially, check distributors reluctor sensor etc are you sure you got cambelt on right? one didn't get it a tooth out? again check.

Usually pretty hard to find to get the right one. There might be one that fits your Stratus if a model was produced that had your same engine but without air conditioning. But keep in mind that that other model may have the other belt-driven accessories in a different location on the engine than yours. So the belt may or may not fit. An alternative is to buy an "A/C Delete Pulley and Bracket" and install that in place of your compressor. It's just a free wheeling pulley set-up, then you can use the same belt without having to find a replacement size. Some company makes them, they probably have an application for the Stratus.

check your distributor position,double
check all marks again,make sure when u line up
the crank marks at #1 cyl. at compression and cam shaft marks!!

G