Top 20 2005 Chevrolet Suburban Questions & Answers

Relay pin 86 is driven directly by the PCM. Verify circuit continuity to the PCM connector C2-9, Green/White wire.

See attachment.

Check the fuse

You start your trouble shooting by hooking up a professional type scanner that can check DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes from the control module for the load leveling system.

Where is the question this appears to be a statement of an answer to another previous question

Gauges in the instrument panel (IPC) are electronically controlled by it - changing the battery may have damaged it. Try resetting the IPC by removing the negative battery cable for 15 minutes, and then reconnecting it. Otherwise, you may have to replace the IPC.

So they stay on until your battery goes dead? If it's just the parking lights. I would probably start by checking at the back of the headlight switch to see if it's switching the parking light output off. There is also a Parking LP relay in the underhood fuse block. You might want to swap another like relay in for it and see if it fixes it. There are probably more relays in that block just like it that you can use to try. Actually starting at the relay would be easiest. The park lamp on switch signal at your headlight switch should be the gray/black wire in pin 2 of the connector

I would check the grounds for these circuits. Clean them and tighten them. Bad grounds can cause funny things. I certainly wouldn't pay $750 to fix it. I'm not sure of your skill level so if you aren't able to handle it, I'm sure you can find a reputable shop that can do it cheaper than that.

Have a fuel pressure leak down test run on the fuel pump. This is a symptom of the electric pump pressure check valve being defective, the valve is part of the fuel pump and it is mounted in the fuel tank. Also make sure you are using 87 Octane gasoline, higher octanes can cause stall issues on cold starts.

Yes it affects the ABS as they are really the same system. You need the system scanned for fault codes with a GM Tech2 scan tool.

Sounds like you have a loose, broken, or disconnected vacuum hose, line, etc

The transmission was overloaded and the fluid temperature went into the red/unsafe zone is the most likely cause.

Sounds likely that either the fuse has blown, the connector underneath the seat has come unplugged, or the wires under the seat have been severed. (Most likely a blown fuse.)

It is mounted on the driver side inner frame to cross member.

Can you hear the front ac/heater fan? They use the same AC compressor so that should be okay. The fan switches fail quite often on those. That controls how much air is pushed by the fan for AC, heat and defrost. The switch is attached to the fan knob on the dash.

Check drains on sunroof if it has one. Take to car wash and focus pressure on passenger bottom of windshield...a drain there is bad to stop up under the cowl. Usually car wash pressure will fix this problem

ok you have mass air flow sensor, evap canister solenoid and a fuel compensation sesnor on that circuit . I would look at the mass air flow but before you do that look under the truck at the front drive shaft for the 4wd by the transfer case and make sure that nothing is rubbing against the shaft like a wire harness. Some of the trucks have a harness that may rub on the drive shaft and cause all kind of problems. If there is no harness near the drive shaft try moving the main harness at the top rear of the engine ( that's between the bulk head and the engine ) by pulling and pushing the harness to make sure it has not been cut through on the body of the truck. Finding a direct short cand be hard. just take the time to look at things and that means looking for pinch, cut and/ or any damage componets. Good luck

Lets start at the beginning. Do you have spark to the plugs and normal fuel pressure ?

Make sure battery is fully charged, clean battery cable connections at the battery. Make sure the transmission is in park or neutral, try again.

ck fluid level if is ok you have internal damage on your transmisio n

The parking brake cable are no longer adjustable. the e-brake pedal is self adjusting. But there is away to take up the slack. between the brake lever assembly and the body there is a small black lever the pointing straight down, this is also used to give your cable more slack when trying to disconnect or re-attache the cable. Again the is loctaed between the e-brake assembly and the body once you located it push it forward as far as you can and it should take out what ever slack you may have. If your planning to disconnect you well need another person. to get more slack you have to push that lever forward while anothe personis pulling on the cable from under the left front side of the vehicle and then use vise grip with just enoungh pressure to hold not to crush the cable. this well leave you enough slack to remove oo reattach the cable.