20 Most Recent 1994 Chevrolet Suburban Questions & Answers

In most cars & truck with this problem, the most common reason is a defective alternator. In the meantime, unhook that battery each time you stop the truck to prevent dead batteries.

Sure they did your multifunction switch is the wipers and turn signal and hi low beam switch your headlights have to run through that switch also so you can dim or brighten them

That is a panyard link to keep the axle aligned.

their are quite a few reasons --needs tune-up--bad gas--throttle body clogging failing--cat converter failing--egr valve carboned up -fuel filter -these are a few

if power to relay and none to other side replace relay

Check the dimmer switch the wheel beside the head light switch. See if someone just turned them off. If not the dimmer might need to be replaced.

Ignition switch possible or a main fusible link. go to http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams .Enter your vehicle info . year , make , model an engine . then under system click on electrical distribution . subsystem -power distribution . Click on the search button ,then the blue link . Check out the wiring diagrams .You'll need to do some voltage testing to find if voltage is missing . This vehicle has eight fusible links ,one feeds the ignition switch . On the fire wall there should be a junction block where all these fusible links are connected to a main wire from the battery . You can try to see if one is burnt by pulling on them , you will feel the insulation stretch if burnt inside .

You have to look at the fuse box diagram on the cover and then go to your owners manual to find what each fuse is for

This should be the 350 5.7 V-8...as long as it is a V-8 the firing order is the same for Chevy's...18436572...#1 being drivers side front...use to confirm #1 on distributor cap...recommend you change one wire at a time...:) passenger side starts with #2 in front...even #s on passenger side...odd numbers front to back on drivers side...1,3,5,7...passenger side ...2,4,6,8...:)

Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Purpose Anti-lock brake systems (ABS) - generally also referred to as anti-lock systems (ALS) - are designed to prevent the vehicle wheels from locking as a result of the service brake being applied with too much force, especially on slippery road surfaces. The idea is to maintain cornering forces on braked wheels to ensure that the vehicle or vehicle combination retains its driving stability and manoeuvrability as far as physically possible. The available power transmission or grip between tyres and carriageway should also be utilised as far as possible to minimise the braking distance and maximise vehicle deceleration. Why ABS? Although today commercial vehicle brakes are designed to a very high technical standard, braking on slippery roads often results in potentially dangerous situations. During full or even partial braking on a slippery road it may no longer be possible to fully transfer the braking force onto the road due to the low coefficient of friction (friction coefficient (k)) between the tyres and the carriageway. The braking force is excessive and the wheels lock up. Locked wheels no longer provide any grip on the road and are almost incapable of transferring any cornering forces (steering and tracking forces). This often has dangerous consequences: - The vehicle becomes unsteerable - The vehicle breaks away in spite of countersteering, and starts to swerve. - The braking distance is significantly increased - Tractor-trailer combinations or semitrailer trains may break away or jackknife. Load sensing valve influence On dry roads today's load sensing valves (ALB) alone are often capable of preventing the wheels from locking if the vehicle is unladen; they also help the driver to effectively grade the braking process on wet road surfaces, but they are unable to prevent locking as such (no slip monitoring). In addition, they are unable to counteract any overreactions on the part of the driver, or any variances in frictional or adhesion coefficients which may apply to different sides of the vehicle, or indeed to its different axles (?-split road surfaces). Benefits of ABS: Only the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) - guarantees stable braking characteristics on all road surfaces. - maintains steerability and generally reduces the braking distance - prevents vehicle combinations from jackknifing - reduces tyre wear. Limits of ABS Although ABS is an effective safety device, it can not suspend the limits defined by driving physics. Even a vehicle fitted with ABS will become uncontrollable if driven too fast around a corner. So ABS is not a licence for a maladjusted style of driving or failure to observe the correct safety distance. 4 ABS Training Anti-Slip Regulation (ASR) Anti-Slip Regulation (ASR) Why ASR? Increasing the engine output (accelerating) on a slippery road surface can easily lead to the maximum adhesion on one or all powered wheels being exceeded causing them to spin, especially if the vehicle is unladen or partially laden. Spinning wheels when driving off or accelerating represent a safety risk just like locked wheel do when braking. Reasons - Wheels that spin transfer just as little cornering force as locked wheels. - They also no longer transfer any tractive power onto the road. Consequences - Vehicles that do not move or get stuck. - Vehicles that can no longer be steered, jackknife on uphill uphill gradients, or swerve in corners. Benefits of ASR ASR prevents the powered wheel from spinning and provides the following benefits: - Tractive power and cornering forces are maintained. - Stable driving behaviour is ensured when moving off, accelerating and negotiating corners on slippery roads. - The indicator lamp (if installed) is used to warn the driver of slippery road conditions. - Tyre wear is reduced to a minimum, and the motor vehicle's drive train protected - The risk of accidents is further reduced. ASR and ABS: ASR represents a worthwhile addition to an ABS-controlled braking system. All that is required to turn ABS control into full ABS/ASR control is an ECU with the additional ASR function and a few additional components for controlling the differential brake and the engine. This why ASR is only available in combination with ABS. Even a differential lock for off-road use and ASR do not exclude but complement each other. Limits of ASR The traction capacity of an all-wheel driven commercial vehicle can not be achieved by a motor vehicle with only one driving axle - not even with optimal ASR.

underneath steering wheel behind panel I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_8f8ad0a8f7e0e6d3

Make sure there is no air trapped in the heater core. With the radiator cap removed run the vehicle at idle until it reaches full operating temp while keeping an eye on the coolant level in the radiator and topping off as necessary. When the thermostat opens rev the engine a couple times. Short snaps work the best. Do this from the drivers seat while the heat is set to full hot, the mode is set to vent, and the blower speed is set to low or the next setting higher than low. If you feel short bursts of hot air there is restricted flow or air in the heater core. Continuing trying the short burst for about 5 minutes (a couple short bursts and than wait and then a couple more). If it doesn't stay hot its restricted.

I think the blend doors and mode doors are vacuum operated on that one. Make sure you can hear a noticeable difference in the sound of the air as you switch from full cold to full hot. If you don't than the blend door, blend door actuator, or the heat selector switch could be bad.

If you do hear a noticeable difference than I would suspect a plugged heater core. Especially if the first part above did not work and the coolant is muddy or nasty looking. You can try back flushing the heater core by removing the heater hoses from the heater core. Then using a garden hose spray water into one side of the heater core tube until clear water comes out. Then do the some thing on the other heater core tube. This may take several tries but you should start to notice an increase in heat. top off with straight coolant (not mixed 50/50 with water) to compensate for the water in the heater core. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

if it shuts off while driving down the road. and restarts after 10 minutes, its usually a bad crank sensor that does this. it messes up timing and shuts off fuel supply.

If the vehicle does not have ABS brakes, The wheels will lock on a hard/panic stop. This is why ABS was developed so the operator can maintain some control during hard/panic stops

Sounds like the alternator may be failing. The battery light on means the alternator is not charging the battery enough to turn the light off.

Check the alternator and the charging system. You may have a weak or failing alternator. If you have a voltmeter, get the battery reading with the engine off. A charged, good battery should show at least 12.6 volts. If you have to boost it, it must be low on charge. Recharge it or have it tested, a dead cell in the battery would not let it charge up. Now take a reading on the battery with the engine idling, or idling as low as possible without dying. A good alternator and charging system will make the battery now read at least 13.5 volts. If your reading is lower than this, you probably have a weak alternator.

Have you grounded the sender to see if the gauge on the dash moves ?