Hotpoint Refrigerators - Page 4 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

no, replace fan

Try cleaning your condenser coil at the back of the refrigerator. If there is constant ice built at the evaporator coil which you have to defrost manually then you have a defrost timer issue

if new, you don't have to pay, simply take it back and get your money back or a replacement. if not new, you have to pay to get it fixed.

most fan only go when the doors are closed ?

what's the model number off of the fridge?

Most likely the evaporator fan motor, do you hear the fan running in the freezer section?

Sounds like your defrost cycle has failed. Since the unit is running fine for a while before warming up, this can rule out your circulating fan also when the ice begins to build up, the sound you most likely hear is the fan blades hitting the ice on the coil. Your defrost cycle is operated by a defrost timer or your motherboard depending on the age of your refrigerator. When your refrigerator goes into defrost, it turns on an electric heater that melts the ice from your coil in the freezer. When your defrost time or electric heater fails, it allows ice to build up on the coil in your freezer which blocks airflow which causes your cooling compartments to not maintain temperature. Hope this gives you an idea what to look for and a guide on where to start looking

Is there an inline water filter cartridge that needs to be changed, hope this helps

Fridge side will not cool if fan in freezer doesn't work. Also freezer temps will be marginal.

Your whining noise could be many things... The LINK on the bottom will help! DEFROST TIMER $9.50 Anthony

Hotpoint Refrigerator Defrost Timer Part Wr50x10006

WR9X502 GE Refrigerator Defrost Timer Replacement How To Fix Refrigerator Making High Pitched Noise

I believe the refrigerator doesn't have enough space for venting. Leave more space between refrigerator and wall and it should be fine.

Hello Jeanneary9, Proper AIR CIRCULATION is critical to the proper operation of the unit as a whole... (I prefer my milk ICY cold... but fluid). First thing to do is inventory your air vents inside the FREEZER area... to ASSURE that NONE are blocked (from open)... Then inspect the air vent INTO the refrigerator area that NONE of those are blocked (closed) Most modern refrigerators give preference to the milk storage shelf... ELSE... (first try a full 3 day DEFROST... (unloaded with doors wide open... Then set to original settings (three more days)))... Only then you are looking at (sorting) a DEFECTIVE thermostat...!! I use (rather inexpensive) TAYLOR ($6 - USA) refrigerator thermometers to regulate temperatures... and STAY AWAY from "adjusting" as much as Possible... as it can take UP TO 3 days (72 hours) for the refrigerator to stabilize... Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

It was made in 2010. You will have to contact the GE support center regarding dimensions. Below is a link for that contact plus a link to a manual. Hotpoint Support https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/HTR16ABSHLCC-HOTPOINT-REFRIGERATOR%20S%20SERIES-manual

It sounds like your auto defroster is not work

Drain line is clogged, clear the drain behind the freezer back wall with hot water and you should be good to go.

Is the ice chute door closing tightly

sounz like the water solenoid is clogged / defective.

A wire has shorted around light switch it would seem. It will have to be located and repaired.

In most refrigerators there is a drip pan underneath that captures condensation and allows it to evaporate. Possibly your drip pan is missing or improperly installed so that the condensation is dripping onto the floor. Check your manual, or find one online. Usually you just have to remove the grill from the bottom of the fridge to get access to the drip pan.

You would be best off also changing The terminating thermostat and the heater. That will pretty much guarantee a fix. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720