2003 Mazda tribute - Check lite come on and engine stalls several times. Car will start after several starts but engine lite remains on. Do youknow the problem?

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Failure of EGR Differential Pressure Sensor : Mazda Tribute ...

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Check Engine Light and Hesitation or Stumbling While Driving on Mazda Tribute ...this is my second egr valve and car is not picking up the right sped and when ... Mazda Tribute 2003, replacing burnt DPFE, connector bunrt, Need color pinout. ... Drivetrain · Electrical & Lights · Engine · Exhaust & Emissions · Heating & AC ...

Check Engine Light Diagnosis Cost for Mazda Tribute ...

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A Check Engine Light is turned on when the Mazda Tribute engine control module detects a fault in the emissions system. One or more diagnostic codes will be

It sounds like a sticking torque converter or tcc solenoid

i think this is normal if the light stayed on it would be a problem you can get it checked by your mechanic if he has a scan tool to read the codes

Check if you have a spark by pulling the spark plugs and crank the car while the spark plug is on the ignition coil/spark plug wire and ground the threaded part of the spark plug and ask someone to start the car and look for a spark is a spark is present then ignition is fine. If spark plugs are wet and smell like fuel there is problem in the ignition system.

Most likely cause is a leaking vacuum hose on your air intake. It's a common problem on tributes but should be easy and cheap to fix. Look for cracks, holes, or roughness on the small black pipes near your engine and air intake and while you're there check the end connections are secure/tight. If you find cracks, holes, etc then replace the hose, if the connection is loose, then tighten it..

It could also be that your Mass Air Flow sensor is stuffed. Not as cheap, but still easy to fix.

check the fuel filter air filter and vacuume lines if they all good make sure the spark plugs are making a bright blue spark

if when running it runs well apart from idle problem i would suggest you have the throttle body and idle speed control valve cleaned out and add a fuel system cleaner to fuel tank also check wireing to idle speed control valve

IT SOUNDS LIKE THE IAC VALE OR IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE IS BAD, WHAT YOU CAN DO IS TAP ON THE VALVE. IT IS LOCATED ON THE INTAKE RIGHT BEHIND THE THROTTLE BODY, JUST TAP ON THE SILVER PART WITH THE BACK OF A SCREW DRIVER A COUPLE OF TIMES. THIS SHOULD UNSTICK THE VALVE AND YOUR TRIBUTE SHOULD RUN. THEN IT IS JUST A MATTER OF REPLACING THE VALVE. YOU CAN GET THEM FROM ANY AUTO PARTS HOUSE.

sounds like a timing isue
have them do a sensor test
start the car on a hoist then tap the engine or if posable tap the timing sensor and also try shaking the wires running to the knock sensor and the tining sensor or distributor

It's probably your idle air control valve. I have a 2001 Tribute and it has had this problem since about 1 year after buying it new. My mother in law also has one and it has the exact same problem. You can crank the car cold (sometime even warm) and it will die unless you keep the gas peddle pressed in. I suspect that this is a widespread problem with the Tribute. Forget about the Mazda dealer helping. There is a very simple and cheap solution:

1. Locate the idle air control valve...looking at your engine from the front of the car, the valve is located on top of the air intake towards the far right corner of the engine (next to the plastic cover on top of the engine). The valve is metal, looks like a small metal cylinder is attached to it, and is bolted on with two bolts. It also has wires plugged into it. You can go to google images and type "Mazda tribute idle air control valve" to see what it looks like.

2. With engine off, unplug the wires from the valve.

3. Remove the two bolts and take valve off of air intake.

4. Inside the metal part you removed, you will see two chambers with a shaft going through them that can extend back and forth. The shaft has a spring on it, and a plug that can open or plug a hole between the two cavities. This is the idle control valve.

5. Take a flat head screw driver and pry the shaft back and forth a few times to free it up. There will probably be some dirt/grime on the shaft.

6. Take carburetor cleaner and spray it in the valve cavities. Allow it to soak for a minute and drain it out. Repeat if needed to clean it out.

7. Blow in it to dry it out.

8. Take WD40 and spray it in the cavities. Drain excess out
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9. Take the screwdriver and work the shaft back and forth a few more times. The shaft should move freely.

10. Bolt the valve back onto the engine air intake and plug the wires back up to it.

Start the engine. If this was the problem, and the engine was stalling just before doing this procedure, then it should start right up and idle fine. If it was stalling sporadically when started, it should not any more. I have to do this procedure with my car every 6 - 12 months. When this problem first occurred with my car it took it to the dealer several times. Of course it would not do it at the dealer, and they claimed ignorance as to the cause. I suspect this is a cash cow for Mazda.

For the check engine light, I also have this light...it has been on for about 5 years now due to a delta pressure code, or something to that effect...anyway, it is BS. I suggest you take the car to a local auto shop (not Mazda) and get them to scan the code for the light. The shop that I take my car to does not charge anything to check a code, but it could cost $10-20 bucks depending on where you take it ($50-75 at Mazda). If the code has anything to do with a delta pressure switch, ignore it.