Jp 989 switch replacement

limited info generic answer check that control is mounted correctly test selector with a meter most likely its failing

Unplug the range then you need to take the side panel off and there will be a slide out tray with the lower element in it. Disconnect the old element and reinstall the new unit in reverse order. Hope this helps

Yes

Hi

The issue seems to be with the switch that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back with its model no for further assistance.

Daniel

This is usually caused by the infinte switch. You will need to disassemble to acess the switch. The switch is easy to test and replace. Here is a link showing how to test an infinte switch http://appliancehelponline.com/infiniteswitchvideo.html
You can also enter in your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model.

This is usually caused by one of the infinite switches. They are easy to check and replace. You will need to remove the cook top and disassemble to access the switch assemblys. Here is a link that will walk you thru testing the switches http://appliancehelponline.com/infiniteswitchvideo.html You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your model.

Hi, I too have had a problem with the dual element on the Kleenmaid CH14. Likewise I was given an Invensys M82314 which as you will know is not configured in the same way. However, I assume that what they call"phase" is the active connection, the neutral is marked and are side by side like the old one, pilot is idicated and is the wire that bridges together with the other switches....you are only left with two...."load1" and "load2" whichever way around I apply those I can only get my inside burner to run. I am baffled !! My old switch operates both burners but keeps cutting in and out.

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Lift out cooktop, remove all machine screws holding the glass frame. Remove plastic knobs and lift glass top straight up. Make sure rubber gromits are not ripped or torn. Unscrew the small screws on the selector switch and then lift up and tilt over the small aluminum chasis holding the switches to expose the wiring connections. Pull off the wires and pull out the defective switch. Replacre switch, connect wires, re-seat switch chasis, and secure switch with screws. Carefully drop in the glasstop lining up the switch shafts and the rubber grommets. Secure the top with machine screws and drop back in the cutout.

more common is the dual switch to be bad, but it is possible that the elemnt itself has burnt out, usually a 5 yr warr on the elemnts under glass

The selector knob having lose contact the elements are for full adjument , the wire connection are rust and corroded need to clean terminal of elements.