When circuit breaker is off then switched back on again it sparks.

when a circuit "pops" you must turn it off then back on if it sparks and pops off again do not try a third time. means its is shorting out.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_66344e9ad974c715

Well, you should first - stand off to the side (not in front of any electrical panel, or device) when re-energizing a circuit breaker/switch, etc... Use your off hand, not your dominant hand when doing this. Reason is, if the breaker/switch blows up or out - and it happens to burn your hand (hopefully not...) - you will still have your good hand to work and get around with. Also, look away when doing this too - which will protect your eyes and face. This is why you DON'T stand in front of these electrical devices when turning them ON. Now, stand off to the side of this breaker/switch - look away, and using your less dominant hand - first turn the breaker/switch OFF (listen and feel for it to click in the OFF position)...then, turn the breaker/switch back ON. This should re-energize the breaker! If it trips again, then leave it in the TRIP position - and ask for further help. You'll need an experienced electrician to troubleshoot the problem. On this particular breaker - the two 40amp breakers are together, and the two 30amp breakers on the outside are together. When turning these OFF, and back ON...turn the two 40amp breakers OFF together, then back ON - and do the same to the two outside 30amp breakers as well. What you have here is what they call a Quad Breaker (4poles/circuits - which take up two spots in your electrical panel). So, you have a 2 pole/circuit...240 volt/40amp breaker - inside of a; 2 pole/circuit...240 volt/30amp breaker. This is most likely running a dryer and a range. Either way, SAFETY FIRST! I hope your problem is just a tripped circuit breaker! Also, make sure whatever you are trying to re-energize again - is ALL OFF!!! If your breaker trips again, disconnect ALL appliances involved - and then try it one more time! If it trips again, then call a licensed/certified electrician! Best of Luck to You...:)

When any switch or circuit breaker is turned on, and there is a load present, there will be an arc as the current jumps the small gap between the contacts just before they actually touch. For example, if you could see inside a simple light switch you would see this arc as you either turn the switch on or turn it off. On the other hand, if there was no light bulb in the fixture, (this is the no-load situation) there would be no spark. The higher the voltage, the greater the gap that can be jumped. The larger the load (say more, high-watt light bulbs) the larger the spark. Most switches are designed to snap quickly through the position when the contacts are close together, so that the spark doesn't cause too much damage to the contacts.

Under most conditions, sparks occur between contacts of switches, circuit breakers, etc. during the split instant between fully closed and fully open positions (these sparks are really refered to as arcs or arcing). This instant is the point when the full pressure of the internal spring-loaded mechanism that is pushing or pulling contacts together or apart; is not yet felt. This pressure is usually felt only in the fully closed or fully open positions.

The brightness and duration of the arc is directly tied to the amount of power is being switched and the condition of the contacts themselves (contacts become pitted and dirty over time and arcing becomes more noticeable). Many larger switches and circuit breakers employ specially engineered arc flash suppression techniques and materials as the intense heat from the arc is destructive to ordinary insulated switch materials. Ordinarily, the arcing should not be visible to the naked eye.

Here\'s a video of an incredible arc at a power switching station when the switch is opened.

short in the ignition switch or loose wire at the ignition switch. if trigger switch is the key ignition switch you referring to.

Pull the spark plug wires off and insert another set of good plugs in them. Do not remove the spark plugs that are in the engine now. You engine has a compression sensor and if it doesn't sense compression it will not have spark. Try to crank the engine will watching the plugs. If you do not see a spark, turn the switch off and listen closely for a slight "tick". I cannot remember what year Harley went to using fuses instead of circuit breakers but you could have a short somewhere tripping the circuit breaker to your ignition circuit. Listen again when you turn the switch back on. After a few seconds, you may hear the slight "ping" of the circuit breaker when it trips.

If that isn't the problem, I'd say that the compression sensor on your engine is bad or you don't have compression. Check the compression on your engine. Good Luck

You're saying fan (singular) and lights (plural)? Does this fan and these lights work off of one switch? If so, then it's probably a bad switch. You can check this by turning off the circuit breaker. Remove the switch from the wall, and put the two wires going to that switch together. Make sure to use a wire nut, or tape to keep these wires together without touching and grounding anything. Make sure these wires are clear of anyone or anything, and then go back and turn on the circuit breaker. If the lights and fan go back on, then it's a bad switch. This is what it sounds like. So now, you can turn the cir. brkr back off - replace the switch, and then after everything is secure and the switch is in the off position - you can turn the cir. brkr back on again. Then go back into the kitchen and turn the switch on again to reaffirm that everything is back in working order. If for some reason this doesn't work, feel free to contact me again. Good Luck!  Jim

I'm assuming you're working on a '93 Sporty. I've seen these threads listed all sorts of ways.

The first thing to check for is power to the coil. Using a test light or a volt meter check the small terminals on your coil for voltage with the switch on. If you don't have any voltage, first check the "engine Run/Stop" switch. Make sure it's working properly.

If you think the switch is working properly, I think the '93 models still used circuit breakers instead of fuses. When you turn the switch on, listen for a low level "plink" sound. After a few seconds, you may hear it again and so on. This may be a circuit breaker tripping and resetting itself. If you hear this, you've got a short circuit somewhere causing the breaker to trip. You'll have to determine where the short is.

If you have voltage to the coil but no spark, turn off the switch and disconnect the wires from the small terminals on the coil. Using your Ohm Meter set in the "R X 1" scale, put the test probes on the coil. One probe on each terminal. You should read about 2-4 ohms of resistance. Any more or less, you've got a bad coil.

Another test of the coil, with the wires off the coil and the switch turned on (careful, don't let the wires short to ground), only one wire will be "hot". Connect that wire back to it's small terminal on the coil. Now using a scrap piece of wire, momentarily short the other small terminal to ground while watching the spark plugs. You should get a spark every time you ground the wire and then unground it. It sparks when you unground the wire. If not, the coil is probably bad. If you do get a spark, then something else is wrong with your ignition system. Either you sensor in the engine or the "black box" is bad. The dealer will have to test these units. Good Luck!

if it is an old stove i would say have it serviced/checked over. if it is a newer stove i am guessing the circuit breaker predates it and is rated for the old stove therefore you will need to have a larger circuit breaker installed (by a licenced electrician)

the first thing i would do is to remove the feed wire from the breaker and see if will reset if it does you have a short in the system , tell me more about the system and maybe i can advise further