Our Masterbedroom (downstairs)does not get enough cooling or heating eventhough the a/c and heater are working fine to adjust temperature in the larger living room. The air blown through the duct is low in the master bedroom. This is the only room that has issue in our house. I am not sure if each room has its individual fan blower?

sorry but we know nothing about Dunkirk boilers contact a local plumbing heating company

close ceiling vents
the hot air down stairs rises through the vents and adds to the upstairs heating
same as hot air goes up the stairs to the upper rooms

Hi there, it's Jack at Dyson.

When you adjust the target temperature of your Dyson Hot fan heater (shown on the LED display on the base), you're setting the target temperature you would like the room heated to. The actual temperature of airflow produced by the fan heater will not vary.

If the heater won't run below 25 degrees, this is likely to be because the temperature of the room you're in is equal to or warmer than 25 degrees. The heater will only turn itself on if the temperature drops below 25 degrees, and once the room temperature reaches this target once again, the fan will turn itself back to monitoring mode.

I've attached our Getting started video below which shows how to adjust the temperature, using the remote or the controls on the base.

I hope this makes sense. It sounds as if your machine is working correctly, but if you'd like any further advice from our experts you can reach us at 0800 298 0298 (UK), 1-866-693-9766 (US), 1-877-397-6622 (CA) or 1800 239 766 (AU).

1-your thermostate is stuck open half way. thermostate is a simple device that made of enlarging metals when heat is applied. it suposed to be in close position to allow engine heat up, when specified temp reached it opens and let it flow and radiator tries to keep coolant cool.when it is broken it stucks or it acts slow or it wont acts at all. in your situation it is stuck open half way. it allows enough water to be heated but flow is limited to heat cabin heater.

2-if there are cabin heater selenoid/selenoids for two different temperature for cabin left and right, on some instance those selenoid valves to adjust cabin heater stuck open or closed like thermostate acts on first case. so heat is not enough to heat up cabin heater.

Do you have a water heating system?

It could be a water pressure problem but most water supply companies put out enough pressure for a 2 story house (or even 4 stories) easily. Can you clarify what you mean by continuous? Does the water get cold, on and off (i.e. no hot water) or does it vary in temperature mildly?

Take an Amp draw on all heaters and compare. If within 5%, they are working fine but you may have more open area downstairs than up.

Hi, sounds like you determined the problem is not with the thermostat. That leaves the furnace that serves downstairs. What type heating system do you have?

Water-cooled engines supply heat for the passenger compartment by circulating hot coolant through a radiator-like heater core. The passenger compartment fan forces air through this heater core and into the passenger area. The flow of coolant for this purpose can be controlled with a valve in the line that is adjusted when the heat control is moved or via a flap that blocks or opens the air path through the heater core to adjust temperature.
The effect you describe can be caused by several different sources:
- A slipping belt which turns the water pump. - A partially collapsed hose in the circuit for the heater, causing a reduction of water flow to the heater core. - A heater core internally blocked from deposits from the water component of the coolant. - A valve which is not being adjusted through its normal range by the dashboard control. - A flap suffering the same limitation as above.
Another effect our personal vehicles generally show with age is caused by abnormally low engine friction attributable to a particular additive we use that reduces engine friction so much that the thermostat that controls coolant/engine temperature is wide open but the engine doesn't heat enough to bring the coolant temperature into the normal operating range. We notice on two of three vehicles, that rolling on a long downgrade (engine not loaded) will cause the engine temperature to drop below its customary operating temperature.
If you have a dashboard temperature gauge, watch it to see if it rises into the middle of the range or not. If not, there may not be much you can do other than flush the cooling system, making sure that the heater control is set to its highest temperature to ensure that the heater core is in the loop while flushing.

It sounds like the space is too large for the BTU capacity output of the unit.

Did the unit ever heat the space?

Have you measured the temperature of the incoming air, vs the discharged air?

And finally, based on the Model number in the heading of this thread, this unit is cooling only, no heating (it's not a heat pump).